Mid Bass Enclosures

[Herokight]

So I've been wondering, with all the systems using an enclosure for the mid bass woofers instead of free airing them, how do you come up with the specs of the box (size/tuning)? I realize if you're using actual sub woofers it has specs on what size box to use and such, but what if you're using pro midbass speakers like Crescendo or Rockfords? I haven't really thought much about it, but now that I'm looking into car audio again and want to use a 4 way system next time around it's really peaking my interest.

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I was just going to search about this same topic, in for results

[ThreehundredC]

they should still have a spec sheet my selenium have box recommendation on them and said keep the magnet at least 2 inches from the back of the box

[Kevin M]

Most speakers designed for car audio are designed for infinite baffle. If you deaden and seal the door or kickpanel they will suprise you. My 10" in the doors have a ton of output you can feel in the seats. If you need enclosure recommendations call the manufacture. I have seen ported midbass used in conjunction with infinite baffle subs but not with any other designs. I'll write more tomorrow morning when i don't have a tablet holding me back.

Edit on laptop: I wanted to also mention that many midbass are tuned ~ the Fs of the driver. At least in the ones I've seen anywhere from 60-120 hz, but of course; it depends on the drivers used.

HK; Are you looking to do a 3 way with sub? You will have your hands full. If you port the midbass it will complicate things even further. I'm not saying don't do it but it will take alot of effort to get right. A pro audio 3 way would be pretty sick and with the right processing would be the cat's pajamas. If you go this route I would try to to get at least an 8" for midbass. 10" or 12" would be better. A pro audio 6" will have too steep a drop off and you wont get much out of them below 125 hz. You could integrate a home driver like I do but if you run a high efficiency mid and tweeter you will need to run 200+ watts to the midbass to match output. To give an example my horns are 111db 1W/1M and are on 30 watts and my 10" (90db 1W/1M) midbass is on 240 watts.

[bcbrassard]

I am pretty new to car audio myself but i like to do alot of research when attacking projects. When i installed my T265 comps in my doors in the stock location i new to use sound deadening on the inside of the doors and door panel its self. when I finished they didnt sound like punchy, kinda still muddy. Just not what i thought they should so i did more research on here and Youtube. Found dynomat acoustic foam had been used by people over sound deadener but sealing the enclosure was what people where doing. So i did a major tear down on all four of my doors and in stall acoustic foam and spent alot of painstaking time using sheet metal & 1/8" plywood enclosing all openings in my doors and sound deadening over those materials. The results where amazing, 6.5" drivers sound and respond so much better. It was like night and day difference, The drivers put out some great midbass now, very punchy and clear. Now all four doors shake the car nicely with midbass. Very happ with the results!

[Swordlordboy1234]

I did something similar to this with my doors, i didnt use sheet metal or wood but i used cardboard and about 15 sq feet of deadener in each door to not only coat it top to bottom inside and out but also to seal off those holes.

Doing this made me go from a "PA" sounding mid bass, to actually hearing the bass a bit. The polks dont have a lot of mid bass to begin with. Im curious if i put some hertz hi energy in there if i will get what im looking for. Im pretty sure its not my deadening job that didnt get all the results i wanted.

[bcbrassard]

its possible, could be speakers and upgrading would help. All i know is what i did and the results where amazing. Sealed and sound deadened was the way to go in my 03 Lancer.

[Swordlordboy1234]

its possible, could be speakers and upgrading would help. All i know is what i did and the results where amazing. Sealed and sound deadened was the way to go in my 03 Lancer.

One way to find out! ill ship the polks you ship the rockfords for a test and we will trade back after video proof

[bcbrassard]

You a funny Guy! lol You would want to give my T2s back! lol Really though i hardly know shit about the tech side of audio, i can install but have tons to learn about tuning and other technicals aspects of audio. I like what i have done though.

[Herokight]

Most speakers designed for car audio are designed for infinite baffle. If you deaden and seal the door or kickpanel they will suprise you. My 10" in the doors have a ton of output you can feel in the seats. If you need enclosure recommendations call the manufacture. I have seen ported midbass used in conjunction with infinite baffle subs but not with any other designs. I'll write more tomorrow morning when i don't have a tablet holding me back.

Edit on laptop: I wanted to also mention that many midbass are tuned ~ the Fs of the driver. At least in the ones I've seen anywhere from 60-120 hz, but of course; it depends on the drivers used.

HK; Are you looking to do a 3 way with sub? You will have your hands full. If you port the midbass it will complicate things even further. I'm not saying don't do it but it will take alot of effort to get right. A pro audio 3 way would be pretty sick and with the right processing would be the cat's pajamas. If you go this route I would try to to get at least an 8" for midbass. 10" or 12" would be better. A pro audio 6" will have too steep a drop off and you wont get much out of them below 125 hz. You could integrate a home driver like I do but if you run a high efficiency mid and tweeter you will need to run 200+ watts to the midbass to match output. To give an example my horns are 111db 1W/1M and are on 30 watts and my 10" (90db 1W/1M) midbass is on 240 watts.

Yeah. I was thinking RF pro tweets, 6.5" pro mids, and 8" pro midbass with either two 10s or two 12s, all processed by a 3sixty.3. With what I'm looking at it'd be 50w per tweet, 100w per mid, 125 per midbass, and then 500w per sub. Of course, this is going to be way off in the future, but I like to have an idea of what I want and what I'm doing. Last system I built having almost no knowledge of what i was doing and was constantly going back and fixing things.

Another thing I'm wondering about is midbass placement. My general understanding is that frequnecies under 350hz are omnidirectional, correct? So would it be a bad idea to put midbass drivers directly behind or under the front seats, or would it make that big of a difference?