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So recently I found out my headunit clips at 56/62 not 60/62. My DD1 said it wasn't clipping but I could hear distortion on my 1k tone after 56 just not very loud. So I re set my gains on 56/62 and unplugged all the negative speaker wires out of my t600-4... After that I grounded the dd1 and proceeded to plug my positive probe on the positive terminal for ch1... It worked... But then when I did that to channel 3.... The light didn't detect 1k on the "+" terminal.... So I did the positive of ch4 and the same thing..... No light... Just out of curious its I plugged it in the negative terminals for those channels and I got 1khz detect! So when I thought my terminals went + - + - + - + - .... They actually go + - - + + - - +.... So for months not only was I clipping my signal but my speakers were out of polarity... So I got a cleaner sund and less cancelation by using the DD1.... Say hello to mid bass :D

My old YouTube channel : http://www.youtube.com/user/SwordLords1234?feature=mhee

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My New Build - http://www.stevemeadedesigns.com/board/topic/207041-2016-mazda-6-sql-build/

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2 B2 Class H quattro's

1 B2 Zero.5R @.5

2 B2 HNv3 12 d2

B2 SLIP40 - Lithium in the trunk

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No some amps have the signal going that way. So don't switch your wires around

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N8ball2013

And then he gets to say ok all you guys were right. im sorry for being a dummy poo poo head.

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What he said.. Lol

My amp is the same way. Saves the need for a separate bridge turn-on switch. The signal might come out of the negative side, but it is also inverted in polarity to compensate.

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First 8ight i disagree. becauae 4 of the terminals i get no signal... and 4 of the terminals i get signal... If the dd1 only reads the positive signal.. Then that means the positive ones are the only ones who give out signal. The signal isn't being shared over different terminals.

But what messes me up is maybe I have a switch on the 4/2 ch operation messed up. Because the outside diagram I hooked it up + - + - ect... But I never had ANY mid bass at all. And I switch it around according to what my dd1 says by detecting the signal since it can't detect from the negative terminal... After I switch it it sounds way better.

My old YouTube channel : http://www.youtube.com/user/SwordLords1234?feature=mhee

My old build log : http://www.stevemeadedesigns.com/board/topic/161872-96-accord-b2-sundown-sky-high-dc-power-re-re-build-for-heatwave/page-37

My New Build - http://www.stevemeadedesigns.com/board/topic/207041-2016-mazda-6-sql-build/

2016 Mazda 6 Touring

JL Fix 86 - OEM signal correction

B2 prototype DSP 6to8

B2 Ref63 - 3 way active set

2 B2 Class H quattro's

1 B2 Zero.5R @.5

2 B2 HNv3 12 d2

B2 SLIP40 - Lithium in the trunk

Northstar Group 35 under the hood

100ft 2/0 welding cable

30ft 4ga welding cable

20ft 8ga welding cable

All stinger OFC speaker wire

Soundrive custom RCA's

Tons of attention to detail.... Can it be perfect?

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Share on other sites

First 8ight i disagree. becauae 4 of the terminals i get no signal... and 4 of the terminals i get signal... If the dd1 only reads the positive signal.. Then that means the positive ones are the only ones who give out signal. The signal isn't being shared over different terminals.

But what messes me up is maybe I have a switch on the 4/2 ch operation messed up. Because the outside diagram I hooked it up + - + - ect... But I never had ANY mid bass at all. And I switch it around according to what my dd1 says by detecting the signal since it can't detect from the negative terminal... After I switch it it sounds way better.

My apologies, had I read your original post more carefully I would have been aware. I thought perhaps your were just detecting negative feedback. This could be a long thread.

I'm gonna hate

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Don't read too much into it!

It even says it in the dd1 manual. You don't need to switch any wires around. The way they are labeled should be correct

Edited by Trey_Dog650

13 Kia Forte Build!

07 Hyundai Accent Build

***Super Seller***

N8ball2013

And then he gets to say ok all you guys were right. im sorry for being a dummy poo poo head.

ndjs.jpg

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I've read the DD1 manual multiple times but I didn't see anything about polarity. I seen stuff about compensating for regulated and unregulated amplifiers. Does anyone know where that info would be in the manual about the dd1 detecting polarity wrong using the 1khz tone?

My old YouTube channel : http://www.youtube.com/user/SwordLords1234?feature=mhee

My old build log : http://www.stevemeadedesigns.com/board/topic/161872-96-accord-b2-sundown-sky-high-dc-power-re-re-build-for-heatwave/page-37

My New Build - http://www.stevemeadedesigns.com/board/topic/207041-2016-mazda-6-sql-build/

2016 Mazda 6 Touring

JL Fix 86 - OEM signal correction

B2 prototype DSP 6to8

B2 Ref63 - 3 way active set

2 B2 Class H quattro's

1 B2 Zero.5R @.5

2 B2 HNv3 12 d2

B2 SLIP40 - Lithium in the trunk

Northstar Group 35 under the hood

100ft 2/0 welding cable

30ft 4ga welding cable

20ft 8ga welding cable

All stinger OFC speaker wire

Soundrive custom RCA's

Tons of attention to detail.... Can it be perfect?

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Did you read what I posted above? You are overthinking this way too much.

The dd-1 detects a signal. That's it. It doesn't matter if it is in phase or 180 degrees reversed. All it sees is a sine wave. In some amps, the signal will come out of the negative terminal instead of the positive one. It's just a design. You don't need to do anything special like reversing your polarity because the manufacturers have already accounted for this. Just wire your speakers up like normal.

If you like the way your setup sounds now after you tweaked with the polarity, that's something different. But to wire everything up in phase all you need to do is wire + to + and - to - lol. Don't over think it ;)

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