Other ways besides processors to get a "Full" range sou d?

[FosgateLife]

So i have desided to go with a semi- sq system in the fall. I realized i like SQ alot more than just "getting loud" ( not saying that you cant sund good loud but ya know....)

Anyways, im in the planning process and what im planning to do is this:

Rockford T3's all around

RF t600-4

All SMD RCA's

All RF 0 gauge into 4 gauge wiring (distro block)

RF T1000-1bdcp or T500-1bdcp

D'Amore Engineering AF 12 inch sub.

Okay so i feel like im missing out out my frequencies on my current set up (T2's) or should i say some frequencies are higher in volume than others. I dont really know which ones because my ear isnt that good. Lol. But my question is, IS there any other way possible (cheaper) to get that complete full even equalization i. My system besides a digital processor? Or should i just suck it up and drop the money and get a 3sixty....? Thanks guys!

[kickass audio]

You could get one of those din style processor setups but you need to get an processor either way. Whether you get an electronic or one like this that precision power made back in the day http://www.diymobileaudio.com/forum/car-audio-classifieds/2566-fs-coustic-xm-7-7-way-crossover-ppi-deq-230-30-band-1-3oct-equalizer.html its still the same thing, you can trim or boost certain frequencies. I prefer using an electronic processor like the 3sixty or even the bitone (only used a 3sixty.2, never tried a bitone so I can't chime in on its use) as you have more control with less of a gap between frequencies that you can tune. With ones like the PPI EQ you have control but there are still decent gaps in between each band you can control as with the 3sixty there are small gaps between frequencies you adjust. the .2 is relatively cheap and super easy to use, I'd say get one on ebay or something and if you need help with it feel free to ask me.

[FosgateLife]

I see what your saying. I guess i need to just suck it up. Lol. If im gonna go all put i. Gnna go all out!! Lol

[kickass audio]

Trust me, its worth every penny. Even before I tuned my 3sixty and just had it so the EQ was all flat and not auto-tuned it sounded sooo much better. Then I tuned it using the auto-tune feature built into the 3sixty.2 and I think my ears had an orgasm after. lol. Now once I get my doors built this summer my co-worker is letting me use his RTA to set the eq perfect and that will be the best thing ever. I love how my system sounded after just simply going from passive to all active. My tweeters sounded kinda muddy on the passive x-overs and since those x-overs draw power before it gets to the speaker the tweeters were not that loud. On all active they are so much crisper in sound and a lot louder. If you can I would say to run all active when you get a processor. I guarantee you will like the sound you hear from that. lol.

[skittlesRgood]

I'm definitely not of fan of RF speakers in an SQ setup but that's up to you.

going with an active setup will help a lot with SQ.

you can use an EQ instead of a full processor to even out those peaks and valleys.

if you go with a processor, you really need to go active at the same time or else you're wasting almost everything the processor can do. to go active, if you don't know, you will need one amplifier channel for each speaker. and you'll toss out the passive crossovers.

[FosgateLife]

I thought about running active. But then i thought about having to take my dash out of the car i. Order to get to the front door speaker wires and said fuck it and used the factory 16 gauge wires. (Yes i said 16 gauge (go volvo)).

Im going ith RF because after i heard the T3's (active setup) in person i just about had an eargasm. Lol.

So what would you all suggest for running active amplifier wise?

Could i get like a P200.2 for my tweets and a T400-2 for my tweets? Is that enough power for 4 mids and 4 tweets?

[FosgateLife]

I just realized how much more money its gonna cost me go do this shit...... Oh well

[kickass audio]

Its worth every penny when you can enjoy your music. I run all RF speakers for now except my sub and the two AA tweeters I run and it sounds great for me. Granted my doors make them sound like shit with how the panel resonates at higher frequencies but to me the sound is really nice. Like we said before, a budget fix is to get a DIN sized EQ to adjust the sound with. Its a start but will still have a lot of spots that are uneven through the bands. The more frequencies you can adjust the better your sound will become because then you can control the frequencies that are either too high or too low with more precision. Like instead of moving from 1-3.5khz for frequencies on the EQ you can do 1, 2, and 3.5. (idr off the top of my head what the exact bands are on the .2 but if you are that interested I can find out for you on mine later.) If you want a really good processor the .3 is where its at. If it wasn't for me ditching my headunit for a carputer I would replace both my .2's with a .3 because my headunit has an optical output just like what Meade used in Antheny's Honda. Thats really nice to do as you can't get mechanical interference with optical signals unless you pierce the jacket and insulation and the light escapes from the glass through that hole. Other than that my .2's get the job done just fine for what I demand.

[White Lightning]

If you take your time and have pride with your install's driver placement and have a really good headunit with time alignment and EQ ... there is really no need for additional processing ... or going active for that matter.

And when done this way ... it will sound more "realistic" (dynamic) while giving you a nice stage and image at the same token ...

Then again ... Just my suggestion here

[AI James]

yeah id say get a decent deck since all the amps your talking about do not have the proper bandpassing measures in order to go active.