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Kinda new to car audio.. a lot of questions...???


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Posted

Hi guys I'm new to this forum and have a lot of questions and hope someone can help me... I currently have 2 12 inch alpine type E's in a sealed box being ran by a orion cobalt 6002 amp.... the specs on the subs state 750 peak 250 rms and they are 4 ohm subs.. The amp's specs are its a 2 channel amp with 155 rms at 2 ohms x 2 channels and 100 rms at 4 ohms x 2 channels, peak power is 600 watts x 1 channel.. What does that mean????? are my subs being ran by 100 or 155 rms ????? Someone told me that 2, 4 ohms subs are somehow 2 ohms????? Anyway it beats pretty good but i am looking at getting an Alpine MRV-M250 which is a monoblock amp and the specs are 150 rms x 1 at 4 ohms or 250 rms x 1 at 2 ohms.... What is the difference between the 2 channel amp i have now and the alpine monoblock amp?????? Last question I have this setup in an 07 Focus ZX3 and the alternator produces 110 amps will this be enough power to run either amps????

Posted

hey i had those same subs in a sealed box for my first system!

and for the alt setup that should be totally fine to run either of those amps.

and right now unless your subs are wired bridged on the amp they're getting 100w rms each. if you got the new amp the most power you'd be able to send them is 125w rms each (wired in parrallel)

i'd find a amp that could send them more power. i sent them 500w rms together (250 each) in a ported box and got them to do a 135db in my ranger.

edit: btw when i was running them at 500w they would get a little warm after demoing for a while.

~ If it was easy, everybody would be doing it ~

Posted

That amp should do the trick. I've used a Prime series Fosgate amp and it worked fine for me. You would just wire the subs positive to positive negative to negative and get 2 ohms. It would be putting out 500w, 250w per sub just like revo was saying above.

Example:

2_4ohmSVC_2ohm.png

And that alternator should be fine. People have run much more powerful amps on a stock alternator.

EDIT- Oh! And welcome to the forums!

Lane AKA HeroKight

'96 Jeep Cherokee Classic 4x4

R.I.P. Molliboo

$200 for new tires, on a jeep!? Is she stealing them or building them with a heat gun and rubber bands?

You hear that????


That's a category 5 shit storm coming

n8: hey you doing today. What's it like being a bitch? you can pm me if you'd like to explain why you arent one. Just like you did for your vs threads.

^^^Rules. Follow them.^^^

Posted

hey I was just doing some reasearch and was wondering if I could wire up the subs at 2 ohm like above and put into 1 channel of my 2 channel amp.... I didn't know if it would be stable or not.... don't want anything to blow up..lol plus if I can I can get a xtra 55rms...

Posted

Another thing to consider is do you plane to upgrade subs later

If so look for an amp that does 2k @2ohm

And run series getting 500@ 8ohm

Or 500@2 that's 1ohm or.5 stable (giving 1k+ when new subs are selected)

Posted

I just looked up the specs on your amp. When it says 310w x 1 what it means is 310w bridged, which would running the negative into the R- and the positive into the L+, and it can only handle 4 ohms. That amp is not stable bridged at 2 ohms, so it wouldn't be a good idea to try it. It may blow something up. Oh yeah, always go by RMS ratings instead of peak (thought I'd mention it since you were talking about peak above), and right now it would be best to stick with the manufacturer's specs as far as how many ohms the amp can handle. That 6002 can handle down to 2 ohms per channel, but only 4 ohms bridged.

And what John said. Future-proofing is always a good idea.

Lane AKA HeroKight

'96 Jeep Cherokee Classic 4x4

R.I.P. Molliboo

$200 for new tires, on a jeep!? Is she stealing them or building them with a heat gun and rubber bands?

You hear that????


That's a category 5 shit storm coming

n8: hey you doing today. What's it like being a bitch? you can pm me if you'd like to explain why you arent one. Just like you did for your vs threads.

^^^Rules. Follow them.^^^

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