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T600-4 just on front stage. Rear fill not needed?


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Posted

So today I was doing my thing, boomin and all... And I noticed if I faded all the way forward it sounded exactly as loud but less distortion.

I guess my rear speakers were catching the bass from the trunk and getting over driven causing distortion... So I made the decision to just unplug my rear speakers and drive around the rest of today. I also switched the t600-4 to 2ch mode. I didn't bridge, I just left ch 1 with left front door and ch 2 with right front door.

This makes me wonder, is it worth it to move my coax 6.5's into the rear doors instead of the rear deck? Or just leave them out of the build completely?

For the record next summer I plan on redoing both my front doors with lots of fiber glass and new vinyl and putting in a hertz hi energy 163 set up front. But every summer I can only put so much money into the build so that step has to wait.

Anyone else have input on rear doors or just leave it out?

My old YouTube channel : http://www.youtube.com/user/SwordLords1234?feature=mhee

My old build log : http://www.stevemeadedesigns.com/board/topic/161872-96-accord-b2-sundown-sky-high-dc-power-re-re-build-for-heatwave/page-37

My New Build - http://www.stevemeadedesigns.com/board/topic/207041-2016-mazda-6-sql-build/

2016 Mazda 6 Touring

JL Fix 86 - OEM signal correction

B2 prototype DSP 6to8

B2 Ref63 - 3 way active set

2 B2 Class H quattro's

1 B2 Zero.5R @.5

2 B2 HNv3 12 d2

B2 SLIP40 - Lithium in the trunk

Northstar Group 35 under the hood

100ft 2/0 welding cable

30ft 4ga welding cable

20ft 8ga welding cable

All stinger OFC speaker wire

Soundrive custom RCA's

Tons of attention to detail.... Can it be perfect?

Posted

Most people will say no rear fill. I had rearfill, and unhhoked them, bridged the amp to the fronts and didn't notice any loss of sound. Only reason for rear fill is if you have backseat riders IMO

Posted

I find imaging is better without the rears but mid bass response is better in my ride with the rear doors on. Definitely take them out of the rear deck at least or seal them off from the bass waves coming from your subs. Once you start shaking your whole car even the rear doors tend to distort slightly with the vibration if you don't have adequate deadening.

2010 Mazda 3s 2.5L

Pioneer DEH-X9600BHS

Knu OFC 1/0 

SS Platinum AGM / XS Power XP750

Alpine PDX F-4 / Morel Maximo 5 + Coax 5

IA 10.1 / SSA XCON 12 

 

 

Posted

Well I do have back seat passengers occasionally.

Also I tried bridging the amp for the front stage and it took away my left and right ... Also gave way too much power to my comps...also increased my electrical draw like crazy, also made my amp heat up like crazy. Normally I I'm 14.3 (of 14.4) when my t600-4 is full tilt. However when I bridged it I was down to 13.6....

No gains were changed bridged vs non bridged. So I put back to non bridged.

My old YouTube channel : http://www.youtube.com/user/SwordLords1234?feature=mhee

My old build log : http://www.stevemeadedesigns.com/board/topic/161872-96-accord-b2-sundown-sky-high-dc-power-re-re-build-for-heatwave/page-37

My New Build - http://www.stevemeadedesigns.com/board/topic/207041-2016-mazda-6-sql-build/

2016 Mazda 6 Touring

JL Fix 86 - OEM signal correction

B2 prototype DSP 6to8

B2 Ref63 - 3 way active set

2 B2 Class H quattro's

1 B2 Zero.5R @.5

2 B2 HNv3 12 d2

B2 SLIP40 - Lithium in the trunk

Northstar Group 35 under the hood

100ft 2/0 welding cable

30ft 4ga welding cable

20ft 8ga welding cable

All stinger OFC speaker wire

Soundrive custom RCA's

Tons of attention to detail.... Can it be perfect?

Posted

I find imaging is better without the rears but mid bass response is better in my ride with the rear doors on. Definitely take them out of the rear deck at least or seal them off from the bass waves coming from your subs. Once you start shaking your whole car even the rear doors tend to distort slightly with the vibration if you don't have adequate deadening.

Deadening isn't an issue.. And they were sealed off but not very good, I guess one of my ghetto covers started leaking and that's why bass was getting to them back there. So far I'm at 80sq feet of deadener with another 40 more sq feet being put in Saturday.

I'm just not sure if the trouble with the rear doors is worth it, wires being a bitch, and making the install look good...ect

My old YouTube channel : http://www.youtube.com/user/SwordLords1234?feature=mhee

My old build log : http://www.stevemeadedesigns.com/board/topic/161872-96-accord-b2-sundown-sky-high-dc-power-re-re-build-for-heatwave/page-37

My New Build - http://www.stevemeadedesigns.com/board/topic/207041-2016-mazda-6-sql-build/

2016 Mazda 6 Touring

JL Fix 86 - OEM signal correction

B2 prototype DSP 6to8

B2 Ref63 - 3 way active set

2 B2 Class H quattro's

1 B2 Zero.5R @.5

2 B2 HNv3 12 d2

B2 SLIP40 - Lithium in the trunk

Northstar Group 35 under the hood

100ft 2/0 welding cable

30ft 4ga welding cable

20ft 8ga welding cable

All stinger OFC speaker wire

Soundrive custom RCA's

Tons of attention to detail.... Can it be perfect?

Posted

Also the 2 channel switch is only for when you only have one set of RCA inputs.

I currently have a 4ch RCA in it... Should I put it back to 4ch even if I'm not using the other 2? Am I hurting anything by having 4 RCA's and 2 ch?

My old YouTube channel : http://www.youtube.com/user/SwordLords1234?feature=mhee

My old build log : http://www.stevemeadedesigns.com/board/topic/161872-96-accord-b2-sundown-sky-high-dc-power-re-re-build-for-heatwave/page-37

My New Build - http://www.stevemeadedesigns.com/board/topic/207041-2016-mazda-6-sql-build/

2016 Mazda 6 Touring

JL Fix 86 - OEM signal correction

B2 prototype DSP 6to8

B2 Ref63 - 3 way active set

2 B2 Class H quattro's

1 B2 Zero.5R @.5

2 B2 HNv3 12 d2

B2 SLIP40 - Lithium in the trunk

Northstar Group 35 under the hood

100ft 2/0 welding cable

30ft 4ga welding cable

20ft 8ga welding cable

All stinger OFC speaker wire

Soundrive custom RCA's

Tons of attention to detail.... Can it be perfect?

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