AlpineNut Posted July 16, 2013 Report Share Posted July 16, 2013 I have a 2005 Chevy Silverado Crewcab and the stock Alternator is 145A @ 14V~DC and over the past 2 weekends i got the final idea to upgrade the ground to frame, and engine block to 4 gauge and i also upgraded the Power from the alternator to the battery connection and the distribution block for the starter & battery to 4 gauge also. When i am playing some good bass notes the lights seem to dim alot more then when i had left the entire setup alone, it is not always like that though, but i also have noticed the volt meter will go about 12v or so and alot of times stay around or above 14v. All i am currently running is a Alpine MRV-M450 & Alpine MRP-F240 which does not make alot of sense! Only reason i am asking is because this is a abnormal event for me, because i have never had issues like this before in my 20 years of installing car audio for friends and competing in SPL competitions a few times! 73456w9vbwevsdb sodtbsorutnvsd sdtuspdun sd d f gsdfiusd gdf n Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
severancej Posted July 16, 2013 Report Share Posted July 16, 2013 What kind of battery do you have? 98' dodge ram 140A alt Big 3 XS D2700 JVC kd-r310 Rockford T500-1BDCP 2 Sundown E12 Ported 4cubes 35hz Rockford P400-4 2 Infinity reference 3way 6x9 2 Polk DB 5 1/4 2x layer dynamat all doors Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Nosleeplateforwork Posted July 16, 2013 Report Share Posted July 16, 2013 Hows the amp ground? If it's connected to sheet metal (body) insulated from the frame(rubber bushings), it's a weak link. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RCP Audio Posted July 16, 2013 Report Share Posted July 16, 2013 4 gauge could be the problem. have you dissconected your old wires? PSN: Rcp_soundz Good rule of thump is go by what fuse size is being used in these amps. The higher the more amperage it pulls, this is what I look at. I'll stick a 300 amp fuse in a potato and sell it to you for $2k. 1991 Mazda 323VERY small build thread here: http://www.stevemead...23-small-build/ Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Kyblack76 Posted July 16, 2013 Report Share Posted July 16, 2013 You UPGRADED to 4g ? jesus, what the hell was on it before? SMD SUPER SELLER The Burban Build Blazer Build sold Acura trunk build sold Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bradprobert Posted July 16, 2013 Report Share Posted July 16, 2013 If it was a 145 amp alt it should already have 4 gauge on it! [sharedmedia=garage:vehicles:2223] 4th-order under rear seat build log: http://www.stevemeadedesigns.com/board/topic/165708-4th-order-under-rear-seat-chevy-extended-cab/#entry2410477 SD, thank for the input. I would have replied earlier, but I was measuring the output of my amp with a yardstick . . . Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Brandonbkd Posted July 16, 2013 Report Share Posted July 16, 2013 4 gauge could be the problem. have you dissconected your old wires? Aren't you supposed to piggyback the wires and not replace them? FI BL18 Build Log: CLICK HERE!! 2003 Explorer Sport: FI BL18 SoundQubed 2200 at 0.7ohm Pioneer DEH-2500UI Pioneer 6 x 8s Rockford Fosgate 6 x 9s 5 ft^3 box at 35hz Lots of Mega Mat Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RCP Audio Posted July 16, 2013 Report Share Posted July 16, 2013 4 gauge could be the problem. have you dissconected your old wires? Are you supposed to piggyback the wires and not replace them? its recommended and in no way will hurt your electrical.... often expecailly with newer cars, the power wires feeds info to the alt regarding its charging voltage and shit... idk... i have a old ass POS im not good with the fancy lol but yes. keep your old wires ( BUT in my case. i had no funny shit going on. so i could take mine off. as they were simply going straight to the battry etc as i know my alt is crappy and cant even run my lights with out dipping lol, but i also upgraded to 0gauge from stock.) PSN: Rcp_soundz Good rule of thump is go by what fuse size is being used in these amps. The higher the more amperage it pulls, this is what I look at. I'll stick a 300 amp fuse in a potato and sell it to you for $2k. 1991 Mazda 323VERY small build thread here: http://www.stevemead...23-small-build/ Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
finkster Posted July 16, 2013 Report Share Posted July 16, 2013 Try adding the 3rd upgrade? Are all of your connections tight? DAT 4125------>RE XXX comps active Eclipse cd7000 I serve drunks for a living Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
AlpineNut Posted July 17, 2013 Author Report Share Posted July 17, 2013 I have doubled checked all my bolts that hold the connections 3 times and all are tight, and the ground that the amps were connected to some how got rusted out which still boggles my mind, but i took a wire brush and redid the grounds to 1 ground which is now a 4 gauge instead 10 gauge ground since the previous installers in Las Vegas where my brother had the original install done only used 10 gauge wire, and the battery is a NAPA 850CCA i had it tested 3 months ago at a AutoZone and they said it was fine. I had thought about adding a secondary ground to the ground distribution block to see if that might help some. i did forget to mention i also replaced the Positive alternator 10G wire to the jumper box with a 4 gauge since i had assumed that might of been the issue, and none of the runs are more then 2-3 feet if less in length! 73456w9vbwevsdb sodtbsorutnvsd sdtuspdun sd d f gsdfiusd gdf n Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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