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Titebond myth?


Amart88

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Posted

id be surprised if you can keep 1 setup in the same box for 5-10 lol

You never know man. Steve had his same box for quite a long time.

Not really my point though. The glue should last as long as the wood IMO.

Posted

They are talking about redoing a boat hull, something that sees water on damn near a daily basis and takes a lot of stress and fatique.

Not a speaker box that sees almost no water (unless its a leaky trunk).

My opinion on PL type adhesives, and especially liquid nails, are junk, they are a poor weaker bond, and LN always seemed to stay somewhat gooey/rubbery as well as the PL but not no where near as much.

Using these things to fill gaps is ehhh, even with a circular saw you can cut straight even edges and not have gaps, but i guess it comes down to the persons ability to care or show appreciation for what he is creating or saying screw it and rushing thru just to get it done.

The titebond 3 passes a higher water proofing standard compared to other wood type glues, which is nice, but the main reason I swear by the stuff is due to its longer open time (when you squirt it out of the bottle onto the wood), because I evenly spread every glue joint and dont rely on clamp pressure to spread the glue evenly (not many do this, ive only seemed to see a few who take this kind of time).

There are many products made for sealing the hulls of boats for boats, sad to say if your going to the local hardware store to find something cheap to repair your boat, you shouldn't be owning a boat or trying to cheap out on your repairs by doing it yourself and not knowing what your doing. Thats not the kind of fail you want to have when your 20miles out in the middle of a lake or ocean.

 

 

Posted

They are talking about redoing a boat hull, something that sees water on damn near a daily basis and takes a lot of stress and fatique.

Not a speaker box that sees almost no water (unless its a leaky trunk).

My opinion on PL type adhesives, and especially liquid nails, are junk, they are a poor weaker bond, and LN always seemed to stay somewhat gooey/rubbery as well as the PL but not no where near as much.

Using these things to fill gaps is ehhh, even with a circular saw you can cut straight even edges and not have gaps, but i guess it comes down to the persons ability to care or show appreciation for what he is creating or saying screw it and rushing thru just to get it done.

The titebond 3 passes a higher water proofing standard compared to other wood type glues, which is nice, but the main reason I swear by the stuff is due to its longer open time (when you squirt it out of the bottle onto the wood), because I evenly spread every glue joint and dont rely on clamp pressure to spread the glue evenly (not many do this, ive only seemed to see a few who take this kind of time).

There are many products made for sealing the hulls of boats for boats, sad to say if your going to the local hardware store to find something cheap to repair your boat, you shouldn't be owning a boat or trying to cheap out on your repairs by doing it yourself and not knowing what your doing. Thats not the kind of fail you want to have when your 20miles out in the middle of a lake or ocean.

Nice write up. Thanks for the input.

Yeah you are correct about the marine environment. I don't own a boat or want to. Just happened to end up on a boat forum.

I try to use TB 2 wherever I can. I may try TB 3 next bottle I get. I spread it too. Always thought that was the norm.

With my end grain joints, I spread the glue on for a couple of mins to let it soak in bit before gluing the other piece on.

Posted

I use original titebond because it makes for really easy clean up, once cured water doesn't effect it that I have seen.

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Posted

So would TB, TB2, or TB3 be best for box building?

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Posted

Its going to come down to user prefrence.
I myself like the longer open time and that for me is enough reason to buy 3. The higher water resistant standards it passes is a bonus.

Titebond glue in general makes a chemical bond it seems with the wood, where as glues like elmers and elmers max, gorilla glue really dont seap into the wood, and the joint can and will fail, where as with titebond the wood fails before the glue joint.

I myself would use gorilla over elmers in a heartbeat, but id rather not build at all if i dont got my tb3.

another interesting thing ive come to notice when I was doing dustcollection installs woodworking factories, almost every company had 5 gallon buckets of titebond glue tho some companies used a different forumla.

 

 

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