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T nuts


brian85578

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I hate tnuts to be honest. Id muxh rather use some big ass stainless steel or galvamized screws

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I used 1/4-20 t-nuts on my 15. They worked great, just use some wood glue to hold them in.

2010 Honda Civic LX / Deck: Kenwood DDX371 / Front Highs: Crescendo RTS-1 / Front Mids: Silver Flute 6.5's / 4 channel: DC Audio 90.4 / Sub: Fi 15in SP4v2 / Sub amp: Taramps HD 5000 / Power wire: Knukonceptz OFC 1/0 / Deadener: Audio Technix 60 mil / Batteries: XS Power D5100R / Rear bank: TBD / Alternator: Singer 240a hairpin

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I hate tnuts to be honest. Id muxh rather use some big ass stainless steel or galvamized screws

thats what I use too. Not no drywall screw bullshit. Got to be like an exterior wood screw those are rock hard and never break
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1/4-20 is the thread size, I think I used 2 1/2 inch 1/4-20 machine screws to fasten the sub down.

2010 Honda Civic LX / Deck: Kenwood DDX371 / Front Highs: Crescendo RTS-1 / Front Mids: Silver Flute 6.5's / 4 channel: DC Audio 90.4 / Sub: Fi 15in SP4v2 / Sub amp: Taramps HD 5000 / Power wire: Knukonceptz OFC 1/0 / Deadener: Audio Technix 60 mil / Batteries: XS Power D5100R / Rear bank: TBD / Alternator: Singer 240a hairpin

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I acted all cool, and said "hey !! i got me some Tnuts for the build!!"

I quickly got schooled on the times they will "just spin", and people having to tear the entire enclosure apart to get it free..

Needless to say.. i took them back with the quickness......

(more so, because the VETS where making those statments..lol... The vets speak, i do)

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I used threaded insets on the back of my baffle and love that they won't strip out like MDF could with enough screw insertions.

BUT you have to be very accurate and install them straight. If some of the bolts end up tilted a bit, they could rub against the basket mounting ring and cause them to go in hard, maybe even twisting the insets/T-nuts with enough pressure.

Happened to mine and I was careful when I installed them.

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