Pioneerchuck Posted August 7, 2013 Report Share Posted August 7, 2013 Damn ninja.... ^ Lol that is a t nut though It says it is a hurricane nut? Did I miss something? No lol I posted the same link like a second after you did...Lol Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
brian85578 Posted August 7, 2013 Author Report Share Posted August 7, 2013 What do you guys use to mount your subwoofers to box Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
n8ball2013 Posted August 7, 2013 Report Share Posted August 7, 2013 I use the beefiest galvanized ot stainless steel screw I can find. Ill post a picture of what I used on my wall when I get home THERE IS NO BUILD LOG! 1998 Chevy Silverado ext cab Alpine CDA-9887 4 Team Fi 15s 2 Ampere Audio TFE 8.0 2 Ampere Audio 150.4 3 Digital Designs CS6.5 component sets Dual Mechman 370XP Elite alternators inbound! 8 XS Power d3400 6 XS power d680 Second Skin Stinger Tsunami Wiring Sky High A Real Voltmeter not a piece of shit stinger. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Kyblack76 Posted August 7, 2013 Report Share Posted August 7, 2013 I use the beefiest galvanized ot stainless steel screw I can find. Ill post a picture of what I used on my wall when I get home Would you please? I know its on my build log somewhere, but, Allen bought the same ones that Don had suggested. They are on my BL also. Well, with the sub gasket, the neoprene washer doesnt fit. So, in a PM, me and Allen were gonna go with the ones you suggested. Thanks yo.... SMD SUPER SELLER The Burban Build Blazer Build sold Acura trunk build sold Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rolow Posted August 7, 2013 Report Share Posted August 7, 2013 Wicks, you're a lucky man. Every time I look locally for threaded inserts I have NO luck. I've looked and looked, even at a place that specializes in specialty stuff. That have Heli coils, but no threaded inserts. Online is the only place I've seen them. OP, T nuts suck. I spun just ONE on a box of mine. It only took that ONE to ruin my day. I couldn't get my sub or, ended up grinding the head off, twisting the sub, and throwing the motor on the sub out of alignment. It was only a $100 sub, and likely wouldn't have happened if I hadn't lost my temper, but nonetheless, it happened. I'll never use T nuts for most builds again. I usually buy Steel insert nuts from McMaster Carr because you can drive them in with an allen wrench. In a pinch you can get them locally at Lowes but there brass and you use a flat head screwdriver to drive them in. http://www.lowes.com/pd_137388-37672-880549_0__?productId=3012573&Ntt=insert+nut+brass&pl=1¤tURL=%3FNtt%3Dinsert%2Bnut%2Bbrass&facetInfo= Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
n8ball2013 Posted August 7, 2013 Report Share Posted August 7, 2013 here is what i used. THERE IS NO BUILD LOG! 1998 Chevy Silverado ext cab Alpine CDA-9887 4 Team Fi 15s 2 Ampere Audio TFE 8.0 2 Ampere Audio 150.4 3 Digital Designs CS6.5 component sets Dual Mechman 370XP Elite alternators inbound! 8 XS Power d3400 6 XS power d680 Second Skin Stinger Tsunami Wiring Sky High A Real Voltmeter not a piece of shit stinger. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Kyblack76 Posted August 7, 2013 Report Share Posted August 7, 2013 here is what i used. May have to go this route. The other ones me and Allen bought, wont work, due to the neoprene washer hitting the gasket, or, hitting the sub basket edge.... hmmmmmm SMD SUPER SELLER The Burban Build Blazer Build sold Acura trunk build sold Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ALPINE408 Posted August 7, 2013 Report Share Posted August 7, 2013 2 words Deck screws..... They don't break they don't back out I used the same screw hole over 20 times without striipping I also only used deck screws that wwhere half an inch long hoding 18s in a flat wall doing over 160 dbs tiny fuckers are strong Have you ever had your woofers blown? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bbeljefe Posted August 7, 2013 Report Share Posted August 7, 2013 T-nuts work fine if you install them correctly and don't try and jam the screw into the hole with a cordless drill. You have to make sure the hole is the proper size for the nut you're using and then, install it with a c -clamp, not a screw and a cordless drill. The latter will spin the nut and flatten the spikes, especially on MDF. And.... if you have a t-nut that won'd loosen when removing a woofer, put a slight bit of outward pressure on the woofer's mounting ring and turn the screw slowly. Oh and... use stainless screws so you don't have rust and corrosion problems. As for wood screws, they're good for one and maybe two installations. After that they are very likely to strip and loosen during use, regardless of what they're made of. And, the ones with the very aggressive threads and ridges along the sides of the shaft are not designed to be removed. When you do remove them, they wallow (waller, for my southern brethren) out the holes they were in. And we all know that the only guy who ever installed a sub in a box and never removed it...... died before it was time to remove it. :-) Facebook: facebook.com/audioanarchyllc Instagram: audioanarchyllc Youtube: youtube.com/bbeljefe Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ALPINE408 Posted August 7, 2013 Report Share Posted August 7, 2013 T-nuts work fine if you install them correctly and don't try and jam the screw into the hole with a cordless drill. You have to make sure the hole is the proper size for the nut you're using and then, install it with a c -clamp, not a screw and a cordless drill. The latter will spin the nut and flatten the spikes, especially on MDF. And.... if you have a t-nut that won'd loosen when removing a woofer, put a slight bit of outward pressure on the woofer's mounting ring and turn the screw slowly. Oh and... use stainless screws so you don't have rust and corrosion problems. As for wood screws, they're good for one and maybe two installations. After that they are very likely to strip and loosen during use, regardless of what they're made of. And, the ones with the very aggressive threads and ridges along the sides of the shaft are not designed to be removed. When you do remove them, they wallow (waller, for my southern brethren) out the holes they were in. And we all know that the only guy who ever installed a sub in a box and never removed it...... died before it was time to remove it. :-) I disagree deck screws over 20 installations without stripping or backing out holding up 70lbs subs in a car that toppd out at a 164 dbs my windshield broke before the screws Have you ever had your woofers blown? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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