Jump to content

Thoughts on a cheap reliable vehicle?


Recommended Posts

Posted

My transmission did go out in my accord. But it had 150k on the original fuel filter, and timing belt. Original rotors, and almost everything mechanical was abused beyond shit.

Dads a mechanic. Got mine with a mint interior and a fucked up mechanics and 1300 in parts later its fucking mint. Then the transmission went. But let me tell you. I'm gonna get my money's worth out of this SOB.

My old YouTube channel : http://www.youtube.com/user/SwordLords1234?feature=mhee

My old build log : http://www.stevemeadedesigns.com/board/topic/161872-96-accord-b2-sundown-sky-high-dc-power-re-re-build-for-heatwave/page-37

My New Build - http://www.stevemeadedesigns.com/board/topic/207041-2016-mazda-6-sql-build/

2016 Mazda 6 Touring

JL Fix 86 - OEM signal correction

B2 prototype DSP 6to8

B2 Ref63 - 3 way active set

2 B2 Class H quattro's

1 B2 Zero.5R @.5

2 B2 HNv3 12 d2

B2 SLIP40 - Lithium in the trunk

Northstar Group 35 under the hood

100ft 2/0 welding cable

30ft 4ga welding cable

20ft 8ga welding cable

All stinger OFC speaker wire

Soundrive custom RCA's

Tons of attention to detail.... Can it be perfect?

Posted

Accords are cheap.. I sold mine with over 180k and I had no bigger issues with it... engine was burning oil a little bit but its nothing unusual for accords lol

That's one thing I can't complain about, the parts are stupid cheap. I'm at 176k, she runs fine, rough idle when cold but runs good when warmed up. I need A new upper left ball joint, left cv axle, cat-back exhaust and I might believe that'll be just about the end of it. Everything else is brand new. Battery, alternator, starter, cat converter, power steering, master brake cylinder, new belts, new tires, pads, door regulators, actuators, sway bars, front right ball joints, CV drive axle, bushings. All of it was payed by me and 100% worked for. I'm 18 and still in High School, so I'm extremely proud of this thing even though its a beater. Most of my friends are a little younger than I am and already on their 2-3 car and never work for shit.

Don't forget to move the ground to the rear strut tower. Mine is on the passenger side behind. After a battery charge I didn't drop below 13.8 today. Lmao good grounds ftw.

My old YouTube channel : http://www.youtube.com/user/SwordLords1234?feature=mhee

My old build log : http://www.stevemeadedesigns.com/board/topic/161872-96-accord-b2-sundown-sky-high-dc-power-re-re-build-for-heatwave/page-37

My New Build - http://www.stevemeadedesigns.com/board/topic/207041-2016-mazda-6-sql-build/

2016 Mazda 6 Touring

JL Fix 86 - OEM signal correction

B2 prototype DSP 6to8

B2 Ref63 - 3 way active set

2 B2 Class H quattro's

1 B2 Zero.5R @.5

2 B2 HNv3 12 d2

B2 SLIP40 - Lithium in the trunk

Northstar Group 35 under the hood

100ft 2/0 welding cable

30ft 4ga welding cable

20ft 8ga welding cable

All stinger OFC speaker wire

Soundrive custom RCA's

Tons of attention to detail.... Can it be perfect?

Posted

Accords are cheap.. I sold mine with over 180k and I had no bigger issues with it... engine was burning oil a little bit but its nothing unusual for accords lol

That's one thing I can't complain about, the parts are stupid cheap. I'm at 176k, she runs fine, rough idle when cold but runs good when warmed up. I need A new upper left ball joint, left cv axle, cat-back exhaust and I might believe that'll be just about the end of it. Everything else is brand new. Battery, alternator, starter, cat converter, power steering, master brake cylinder, new belts, new tires, pads, door regulators, actuators, sway bars, front right ball joints, CV drive axle, bushings. All of it was payed by me and 100% worked for. I'm 18 and still in High School, so I'm extremely proud of this thing even though its a beater. Most of my friends are a little younger than I am and already on their 2-3 car and never work for shit.

Don't forget to move the ground to the rear strut tower. Mine is on the passenger side behind. After a battery charge I didn't drop below 13.8 today. Lmao good grounds ftw.

Believe it or not, my last system was in 4 months ago and my ground was on the support beams behind the seat. I was dropping in mid 12s off 400 RMS....hooked up my buddys yesterday and I was pushing 1k with 0 dim in the low 13's, do you put it directly on top of it? Or on the side of it?(One of the 3)

Posted

One of my favorite cars as a daily driver was my Pontiac sunfire. I could get 500 miles on a tank of gas and it ran like a champ. When I sold it it had 260k miles and the guy that drives it now says it still runs great with almost 300k miles.

2010 Kia Forte Koup (Slow Build)
2 Sundown SCV-3000D

2 DC XL M1 with PSI recones
Focal R-165s2 on Orion 4800-HP
Kenwood KDC-X798
Knukonceptz OFC 1/0
Audiotechnix,Fatmat and Q-mat Deadener

XS power D3400 up front 3 D3100s power in trunk
Stock 110 amp alt

2013 Scion TC

2 Dc lvl 3s with xl coils on Soundqubed 2200

Sundown components

AA 50.2 for components

Pioneer FH-X700BT

Knukonceptz OFC 1/0

Fatmat and Q-mat Deadener

XS Power D3100 up front D925 in back

Mechman 240 alt

http://www.stevemeadedesigns.com/board/topic/189911-2013-scion-tc-build/ <Scion TC Build
http://www.stevemeadedesigns.com/board/topic/174094-jskiles-forte-koup/ <Slow Kia Forte Build
http://www.stevemead...ockUserAgent__1 < Old build 2005 Equinox

Posted

mk4 jetta or golf. so 99-05 great cars and the 2.0 can be had cheap. my friend has one with 245k on it and still runs strong. he gets 34 mpg. sometimes i wish i had a 2.0 but then i hear the sound and feel the torque my vr6 makes and all those crazy notions fade away. but seriously if u can find a tdi jetta golf or beetle(i know there not everyones cup of tea) relatively cheap with less than 200k on the clock i would go with that. they average from 45-50 mpg and with little mods and a tune really come alive especially in the torque.

Posted

I'm against front wheel drives . Rear wheel drive is way more fun while doing burn outs lol.

when you grow up, you realize this isnt all that important.

op- if you're stuck on a shitty Chevy, the 3.8 is a solid motor. the late 90s Bonneville is a great choice. dirt cheap, great motor, and ride surprisingly well. plus good gas mileage. my first new car was an 02 buick park ave. that bitch would get 30 hwy, and rode GREAT. Bonneville will be similar, with a bit sportier ride.

Archived

This topic is now archived and is closed to further replies.

  • Recently Browsing   0 members

    • No registered users viewing this page.
  • Who's Online   0 Members, 0 Anonymous, 2164 Guests (See full list)

    • There are no registered users currently online
×
×
  • Create New...