ALPINE408 Posted September 17, 2013 Report Share Posted September 17, 2013 2010 world champ in sq used nothing but class d amps at 4 ohms 4 ohms 2k is greater than 1 ohm 2k less heat less thd and in theroy less current draw Have you ever had your woofers blown? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tecomah Posted September 17, 2013 Report Share Posted September 17, 2013 Thanks for the insight guys. Only asked because I'm going to play around with a few different setups while I wait to buy a new HO alt that'll charge at idle. So was planning on either doing my BRX2000 @ 1 or my DC 9k @ 4 on stock alt with the XP3000 in there. Not going crazy or anything, but just using them to get some hands-on experience making some different types of enclosures and that fun stuff dude a dc 9k on stock alternator would make me so nervous even at 4 ohms. You got some balls 750??! Yeah, fuck that. Fuck this website, fuck SMD, fuck Steve, fuck all of his butt buddy mods, and their couches.^ DON'T BE A DICK LIKE THIS GUY Team Subsonic Lows Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Sergeant_Skyrim Posted September 18, 2013 Author Report Share Posted September 18, 2013 Thanks for the insight guys. Only asked because I'm going to play around with a few different setups while I wait to buy a new HO alt that'll charge at idle. So was planning on either doing my BRX2000 @ 1 or my DC 9k @ 4 on stock alt with the XP3000 in there. Not going crazy or anything, but just using them to get some hands-on experience making some different types of enclosures and that fun stuffdude a dc 9k on stock alternator would make me so nervous even at 4 ohms. You got some balls It's at a higher resistance though so it's not actually working to its full potential. I used to run the BRZ2100 at 1 ohm on a stock alternator with an XP3000 in the back and all 1/0 connections and it worked plenty fine. I'm not even going to be going full tilt either. Like I said, I'm not going to be using this setup as a daily driver, just using it to test out some different boxes and ideas that I'm going to be designing over the next few months and all that. Been doing a lot of research lately and now I want to put some theory into practical use. EDIT: If anything, I'll maybe do 5 minutes of testing at a time and then changing certain dimensions of the boxes I come up with. More/less internal volume, interchangeable ports, etc. I expect it to be a lot of fun and a good learning experience Build in progress Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Technical Posted September 18, 2013 Report Share Posted September 18, 2013 well the issue is you're going to pay WAY more for an amplifier to push the same power into a 4 ohm load as an amplifier that pushes the same power at 1 ohm lets just say this is how it works if you want 2000w most amplifiers are rated and advertised for power at 1ohm so the most power a 2000w amp at 1ohm can push is 2000w if the amplifier is appropriately rated if you want 2000w into a 4ohm load then you are going to have to buy an amp that is rated for 8000w into 1ohm which is WAY more expensive (unless you can actually find an amplifier rated for that power into 4 ohms which is very unlikely you can find) on the 12v supply there will the the same current draw needless to say there won't be much of a difference in sound between 1 and 4 ohm the main difference is you can run smaller speaker wire because you cut the current flowing to the speaker by around 1/4 couple of basic formulas for you P=IV V=IR I = current P = power V = volts R = resistance in ohms Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Skater229 Posted September 18, 2013 Report Share Posted September 18, 2013 well the issue is you're going to pay WAY more for an amplifier to push the same power into a 4 ohm load as an amplifier that pushes the same power at 1 ohm lets just say this is how it works I think he already owns them... hence the 'My' in front of both amps he talked about... 2010 Chevy HHR Panel (Work in progress) Pioneer AVHX-5800BHS McLaren MLM880's and MLT2's 2ea per door on a DC 175.4 Two DC Audio M4 Level 5 15's On A DC5K Alt CES 200/270+ 4ea Banks of Maxwell 2.7v 3000f caps for a total of 2000f 1ea XS 3100 and 2ea NSB FT170 Batts for 450+ah Not a HUGE build but here it is... DC Audio HHR Build Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tarball Posted September 18, 2013 Report Share Posted September 18, 2013 I wouldn't run either option on stock alt. CURRENT SYSTEM: Alternator: Stock alt on mids/highs Isolated DC Power 270 SP - Charging @ 16.8v Batteries: (2) XS D1400s Power Cable: Double Runs of 1/0 KNU Kolossus Fleks Headunit: 80-PRS Sub Amp: DC 5.0k Subwoofers: 2 RE MT 15s /PSI dual .7ohm recones Subwoofer Enclosure: 9.1cubes @ 32hz - brutal. Mids & Highs Amp: CT125.4 Active Components: Mids RE XXX 6.5c Highs - 3 RE XXX tweeters per side(A pillar) Noise Control: Damplifier Pro all over the cab. Build Log If you do business with me please leave feedback here: FEEDBACK THREAD Highest Legal Score: 151.0 db Highest Musical 30 Second Average: 151.6 db Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Sergeant_Skyrim Posted September 19, 2013 Author Report Share Posted September 19, 2013 I got the technical info I was after I appreciate the help everybody Mods feel free to lock if you see this Sidenote though, I am not 'running' either of them off of the stock alt the way I think some of you guys think I am. Just gonna be doing some quick little burps not even turned all the way up (volume level same for all burps though) while I adjust different specs of a few test boxes. That way I can see what changes I make to the box affect how it sounds and how loud it is if that makes sense. The XP3000 in the back will have plenty of reserve for a little burp while I'm revving the engine too. I appreciate the concern though guys Build in progress Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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