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I'm having a dilema.. need help!!


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Ok so I'm currently planning / gathering equipment for my system build and I have a question... I have 2 sets of Morel Maximos (rated 90rms) and a RF T600-2 (rated 256rms by birth sheet). I'm looking to run 2 Fi Bl 12s on a RF T2500 and was wanting to know if I could possibly run one set of components to "keep up" with 3300 + Rms (which is very typical from the rockford amp). The reason I'm having this dilema is because I rather run one set in stock location so I don't attract any wondering eyes if someone was to walk past my car. I know headroom is good but If i were to put a high pass filter on my components would I be able to throw that much more power to them to help keep a balanced sound, or should I just go ahead and run both sets to keep it musically balanced?

I need you guy's thoughts, opinions and experience!!!!

BTW my car is a 2011 Nissan Altima sedan

2011 Nissan Altima aka Red Ruby

HEADUNIT: Pioneer AVH X2700BS

ELECTRICAL:

-Singer 230a

-Northstar gr34

-(2) Northstar SMS220 w/ Custom Terminals from 12V Metalworkz

-100% Welding Cable

FRONT STAGE:
-(2 Sets) Hertz HSK165

-Hertz HSK130

-Ampere Audio 125.4

SUB STAGE:

-(3) Sundown Audio SA REV2 12's

-Ampere Audio 3800.1 V2

MISC (NON AUDIO RELATED):

-Interior & Exterior Lights LED

-Gloss Black Roof (PAINTED)

-15% Front, 5% Rear Tint

-Roof Spoiler

-20" TSW Snettertons (20x8.5 front, 20x10 rear)

-Custom Projector Retrofit (FX-R 3.0, 6.5k HID, Morimoto Mini H1 (faux projector), Quad Starry Night Halos) ----- COMING SOON!!

-Aftermarket Fog Lights

-Custom Painted Engine Covers

My Build Log: http://www.stevemeadedesigns.com/board/topic/169869-woods-2011-altima-aka-red-ruby-new-video-more-updates/page-109

Retrofit Build Log: http://www.stevemeadedesigns.com/board/topic/185787-hid-projector-retrofitting-diy-by-wood/#entry2765346

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No one???

2011 Nissan Altima aka Red Ruby

HEADUNIT: Pioneer AVH X2700BS

ELECTRICAL:

-Singer 230a

-Northstar gr34

-(2) Northstar SMS220 w/ Custom Terminals from 12V Metalworkz

-100% Welding Cable

FRONT STAGE:
-(2 Sets) Hertz HSK165

-Hertz HSK130

-Ampere Audio 125.4

SUB STAGE:

-(3) Sundown Audio SA REV2 12's

-Ampere Audio 3800.1 V2

MISC (NON AUDIO RELATED):

-Interior & Exterior Lights LED

-Gloss Black Roof (PAINTED)

-15% Front, 5% Rear Tint

-Roof Spoiler

-20" TSW Snettertons (20x8.5 front, 20x10 rear)

-Custom Projector Retrofit (FX-R 3.0, 6.5k HID, Morimoto Mini H1 (faux projector), Quad Starry Night Halos) ----- COMING SOON!!

-Aftermarket Fog Lights

-Custom Painted Engine Covers

My Build Log: http://www.stevemeadedesigns.com/board/topic/169869-woods-2011-altima-aka-red-ruby-new-video-more-updates/page-109

Retrofit Build Log: http://www.stevemeadedesigns.com/board/topic/185787-hid-projector-retrofitting-diy-by-wood/#entry2765346

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You just posted this chill out. And it all just depends. For the most part my stock infinity speakers held up with 2200w on 8 10s.

Post get lost around here real fast, it seems ppl only respond to those who they aquainted to so thats why I bump it.. but appreciate the response, and I'm just it to be wanting musical equally loud as the bass... but I doubt stock speakers could keep up with the setup I plan to run which is why I purchased two sets. My last system I ran focal access on about 60rms and it was pretty loud BUT I was only running a 1200rms system... so since Im nearly tripling my power, I'm lost on if one set would be enough to balance (so I can maintain the stock look for security reasons) or if I would need both to maintain a musical balance

2011 Nissan Altima aka Red Ruby

HEADUNIT: Pioneer AVH X2700BS

ELECTRICAL:

-Singer 230a

-Northstar gr34

-(2) Northstar SMS220 w/ Custom Terminals from 12V Metalworkz

-100% Welding Cable

FRONT STAGE:
-(2 Sets) Hertz HSK165

-Hertz HSK130

-Ampere Audio 125.4

SUB STAGE:

-(3) Sundown Audio SA REV2 12's

-Ampere Audio 3800.1 V2

MISC (NON AUDIO RELATED):

-Interior & Exterior Lights LED

-Gloss Black Roof (PAINTED)

-15% Front, 5% Rear Tint

-Roof Spoiler

-20" TSW Snettertons (20x8.5 front, 20x10 rear)

-Custom Projector Retrofit (FX-R 3.0, 6.5k HID, Morimoto Mini H1 (faux projector), Quad Starry Night Halos) ----- COMING SOON!!

-Aftermarket Fog Lights

-Custom Painted Engine Covers

My Build Log: http://www.stevemeadedesigns.com/board/topic/169869-woods-2011-altima-aka-red-ruby-new-video-more-updates/page-109

Retrofit Build Log: http://www.stevemeadedesigns.com/board/topic/185787-hid-projector-retrofitting-diy-by-wood/#entry2765346

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Tough to answer that unless you have everything hooked up and playing as we won't be able to give you a blanket answer one way or the other as many factors come into play.

It is hard to say!!!! man it's killing me because I like to plan ahead so It's throwing me off ... now let me ask you this... do you think I could throw a High Pass filter on the components and run more power to them? possibly lowering the gain to throw about 150 rms to 90 rms components or would that damage them?

2011 Nissan Altima aka Red Ruby

HEADUNIT: Pioneer AVH X2700BS

ELECTRICAL:

-Singer 230a

-Northstar gr34

-(2) Northstar SMS220 w/ Custom Terminals from 12V Metalworkz

-100% Welding Cable

FRONT STAGE:
-(2 Sets) Hertz HSK165

-Hertz HSK130

-Ampere Audio 125.4

SUB STAGE:

-(3) Sundown Audio SA REV2 12's

-Ampere Audio 3800.1 V2

MISC (NON AUDIO RELATED):

-Interior & Exterior Lights LED

-Gloss Black Roof (PAINTED)

-15% Front, 5% Rear Tint

-Roof Spoiler

-20" TSW Snettertons (20x8.5 front, 20x10 rear)

-Custom Projector Retrofit (FX-R 3.0, 6.5k HID, Morimoto Mini H1 (faux projector), Quad Starry Night Halos) ----- COMING SOON!!

-Aftermarket Fog Lights

-Custom Painted Engine Covers

My Build Log: http://www.stevemeadedesigns.com/board/topic/169869-woods-2011-altima-aka-red-ruby-new-video-more-updates/page-109

Retrofit Build Log: http://www.stevemeadedesigns.com/board/topic/185787-hid-projector-retrofitting-diy-by-wood/#entry2765346

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Should always high pass them at the crossover point you set you sub at to keep from playing to low on your components and possibly ripping the surrounds or breaking the triple joints on your woofers. I don't think those will have a problem taking the 150w as most high end comps are capable of playing with that much power.

01 Ford focus ZX3

Pioneer AVH-X491BHS

PPI PC 4800.2

Morel Maximo 6.5" x2

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Look into q logic kick panels. Run two sets. The single set leaves me on the ehhhhhh side. Might be might not be. Could start with one and do the kicks if you arent happy

THERE IS NO BUILD LOG!

1998 Chevy Silverado ext cab

Alpine CDA-9887

4 Team Fi 15s

2 Ampere Audio TFE 8.0

2 Ampere Audio 150.4

3 Digital Designs CS6.5 component sets

Dual Mechman 370XP Elite alternators inbound!

8 XS Power d3400

6 XS power d680

Second Skin

Stinger

Tsunami Wiring

Sky High

A Real Voltmeter not a piece of shit stinger.

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Look into q logic kick panels. Run two sets. The single set leaves me on the ehhhhhh side. Might be might not be. Could start with one and do the kicks if you arent happy

Pretty much what i did. Except I didn't start with 1, just got 2 sets right out of the gate. Running 2 sets, 1 in qlogic kicks and other in doors. painted speaker grills to match vehicle and it looks clean.

Mine are rated at 125 watts so I gave them 125 watts running active to try it out then ran them passive with 250 watts to try out. Prefered active but settled on 125 watts passive, lol. safe combo

2007 Chevy Tahoe (SOLD)

12 ~ FI Audio X series 10" w/BP option

2 ~ DC Audio 5.0K @0.67

3 ~ DC Audio 5.0K @1.0 

2 ~ PPI 3 way sets (not installed yet)

1 ~ RF T400-4, 1 ~ RF T600-2, 1 ~ RF T600-4

4 ~ CT Sounds 5.25" Strato comps  (rear fill only)

1 ~ XS Power D4800

1 ~ XS Power D3400

8 ~ XS Power XP3000

160 stock alt, Mechman 370 Elite, 185 DC Power

320+ Sq. Ft. Sound Deadener

Pioneer AVH-X5500BHS

Youtube: https://www.youtube.com/user/knfjdkghjudfhsgkjdhf/videos?sort=dd&view=0&shelf_id=0

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