Tarball Posted October 31, 2013 Report Share Posted October 31, 2013 You said you set your gains with DD-1 and the -10db track. Basically this means that if you are playing music that isn't recorded at -10db you are likely clipping all to hell. Set your gains with 0db or -5db and check voltage drop again. CURRENT SYSTEM: Alternator: Stock alt on mids/highs Isolated DC Power 270 SP - Charging @ 16.8v Batteries: (2) XS D1400s Power Cable: Double Runs of 1/0 KNU Kolossus Fleks Headunit: 80-PRS Sub Amp: DC 5.0k Subwoofers: 2 RE MT 15s /PSI dual .7ohm recones Subwoofer Enclosure: 9.1cubes @ 32hz - brutal. Mids & Highs Amp: CT125.4 Active Components: Mids RE XXX 6.5c Highs - 3 RE XXX tweeters per side(A pillar) Noise Control: Damplifier Pro all over the cab. Build Log If you do business with me please leave feedback here: FEEDBACK THREAD Highest Legal Score: 151.0 db Highest Musical 30 Second Average: 151.6 db Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TRON Posted October 31, 2013 Report Share Posted October 31, 2013 You said that your voltage is stable when accessories are on and music is playing. right? However at a competition you're seeing lots of voltage drop, are you using pure sine waves? To and amplifier, playing music and playing a pure sine waves are different. Pure tests tone have a full duty cycle that basically push the amplifier to its limit, its hard on the power supply. I had a setup like your and i could slam music all day with no problems, but playing 30hz wave dropped me down to battery voltage. I've never been to a competition so I cant say for sure if this is your problem. Avalanche Alpine Type S comps Alpine Type S 10'' Alpine MPR-F300 Alpine MRX-M50 Mechamn 270 XS Power d3400s Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Nubcakeninja Posted October 31, 2013 Author Report Share Posted October 31, 2013 yea like i can go full tilt on any song i want but when i get the run and i play my test tones, thats when the voltage drops. when i had my 160a alt my voltage was in the 10s with the tones and now it wont go under 12.2 with my new ult so def helping a lot, but ik im not clipping it at all, i mean obviously maybe a little but that is to be expected. if i were clippin, these subs would be destroyed im pretty sure lol im feeding them soooo much power. ik ppl that have blown their subs easily puttin that much power to the t1s becasue they dont know what they are doing 1995 Blazer lt 4dr 2 t1d412s 1 t2500.1bd 4 polk audio door speakers 2 dash speakers(coming soon) 1 amp to run my mids and highs(coming soon) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Kyblack76 Posted October 31, 2013 Report Share Posted October 31, 2013 That alt with those bats, on that amp, should keep you at proper rest 12.8. Shit, you should probably stay in the 13s. Clipped or not. Your making more that your pulling.Or damn close..... Your said your starting battery is at 12.1 ? ??? Thats dead ...... charge it, or, replace it. EDIT - also, test tones, (most of them,.. the better ones) are recorded at 0db. So, you need to have 2 "levels" or "clicks" on your head unit. One you play music with, set with the dd1, using the -10db The other for tones, you use the dd1, and 0db track. You will have 2 seperate volume clicks your safe at. The tone one, lower, obviously...... Understand? SMD SUPER SELLER The Burban Build Blazer Build sold Acura trunk build sold Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Nubcakeninja Posted October 31, 2013 Author Report Share Posted October 31, 2013 ok, yea sounds good haha ive got a yellow top optima sittin in my garage right now that ive been plannin to change out for my starter battery, just havent had time yet, also idk if this is myth or not but my current starter battery is lead acid and my stinger bat is agm lol does that matter? i mean it wont once i change it out cuz the optima is agm but i was just wondering for future reference 1995 Blazer lt 4dr 2 t1d412s 1 t2500.1bd 4 polk audio door speakers 2 dash speakers(coming soon) 1 amp to run my mids and highs(coming soon) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Kyblack76 Posted October 31, 2013 Report Share Posted October 31, 2013 Different chemical make up mixing, is not a good thing. Also, test, and or top off the yeller top when you get it in. Get it in asap bud. Report back. We go ya. SMD SUPER SELLER The Burban Build Blazer Build sold Acura trunk build sold Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Nubcakeninja Posted February 11, 2014 Author Report Share Posted February 11, 2014 alright, bringing this thread back up cuz its kind of the same question. alright, ive got my dc 5k which im extremely excited about haha i am worried about my electrical a little tho, im about to run another 0 gauge wire from front to back so i will have 2 runs total but ive only got a yellow top in the front and a small stinger batt in the back along with the singer 350 amp alt of course , im in college and obviously on a budget, im curious as to what kind of battery i can get to at least hold me over untill i can get more batts. or what would be optimal for me to get so ik what my next buys are going to be. thx for the help everyone, this will be my biggest build to date haha 1995 Blazer lt 4dr 2 t1d412s 1 t2500.1bd 4 polk audio door speakers 2 dash speakers(coming soon) 1 amp to run my mids and highs(coming soon) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
evermaxx Posted February 11, 2014 Report Share Posted February 11, 2014 2-3 d3100. Team Subsonic Lows Get your garbage EMF products of my amp bitch Man....it makes a nice work bench Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Kyblack76 Posted February 11, 2014 Report Share Posted February 11, 2014 Look local for used cells. Deka or the like. Where are you gonna wire down to? If at 1ohm, and your singer is doing what it should, or is capable of, you'll be OK. SMD SUPER SELLER The Burban Build Blazer Build sold Acura trunk build sold Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MECHMAN Posted February 11, 2014 Report Share Posted February 11, 2014 I would start by checking the batteries for proper resting voltage 1-888-MECHMAN www.Mechman.com [email protected] Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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