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Keeping blowing tweets and X-overs. Why?!?!


Karkov

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try -3 or -6db on your crossovers that are working and switch them out between your blown crossover.

I had same problem, tweets are getting same power as mids if you has them set "in the middle 0db"

They actually only have -3, 0, or +3 and at this point in time I'm not so sure any are working. I guess for now I will have to order new tweets and run a 10 watt amp on those alone, lol, we'll see.

2007 Chevy Tahoe (SOLD)

12 ~ FI Audio X series 10" w/BP option

2 ~ DC Audio 5.0K @0.67

3 ~ DC Audio 5.0K @1.0 

2 ~ PPI 3 way sets (not installed yet)

1 ~ RF T400-4, 1 ~ RF T600-2, 1 ~ RF T600-4

4 ~ CT Sounds 5.25" Strato comps  (rear fill only)

1 ~ XS Power D4800

1 ~ XS Power D3400

8 ~ XS Power XP3000

160 stock alt, Mechman 370 Elite, 185 DC Power

320+ Sq. Ft. Sound Deadener

Pioneer AVH-X5500BHS

Youtube: https://www.youtube.com/user/knfjdkghjudfhsgkjdhf/videos?sort=dd&view=0&shelf_id=0

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Yea, I guess with the amp doing over rated and on strong electrical there could have been too much watts going to them. IDK They weren't distorting and they sounded good. For all 4 crossovers to have melting issues it really can't be a issue with ALL tweets, or ALL speakers, or ALL crossovers. the common denominator is the amp. I see people run more watts to speakers all the time on here (not saying they should). I mean yes, they rave ratings for a reason and that's what I tried to match up. Oh-well i guess, It's over and done with now, will have to do some more researching before i hook anything else up. Maybe I better just stick with Walmart pioneer coaxial of the HU power, lol......

SAM_0554_zps25454b8d.jpg

I thought you might be over powering them, I don't know if you recall me saying that. Sucks to hear bro but keep our head up because it was a learning experience. We have all had expensive oh shit moments growing up in this hobby. You'll get past it.

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Yea, I guess with the amp doing over rated and on strong electrical there could have been too much watts going to them. IDK They weren't distorting and they sounded good. For all 4 crossovers to have melting issues it really can't be a issue with ALL tweets, or ALL speakers, or ALL crossovers. the common denominator is the amp. I see people run more watts to speakers all the time on here (not saying they should). I mean yes, they rave ratings for a reason and that's what I tried to match up. Oh-well i guess, It's over and done with now, will have to do some more researching before i hook anything else up. Maybe I better just stick with Walmart pioneer coaxial of the HU power, lol......

SAM_0554_zps25454b8d.jpg

I thought you might be over powering them, I don't know if you recall me saying that. Sucks to hear bro but keep our head up because it was a learning experience. We have all had expensive oh shit moments growing up in this hobby. You'll get past it.

Thanks man. Must be like no room for extra watts because you gotta figure birth sheet shows best case scenario you could ever possibly see from the amp. the 2 sets were wired at 4 ohms and so a total rating of 100 x 4 At 4 ohms so to have a amp that is giving them at the very most 24 extra watts and set with a DD-1 for a clean signal they still melted all 4 crossovers in less than 20 minutes of play time?

Maybe there is less room for error than I had thought, IDK Just seems like power shouldn't have been the issue, people over power things in this industry every day and often times by a lot more than that, yes, even components. Not ruling it out as the culprit, just saying that it seems more like some setting I didn't have accurately set. Like you said though, expensive mistake.

Funny how when people post birth sheets for sub amps people always talk like you will never see that many watts and can't truly go by it. (granted I do understand that sub amps can draw voltage down equaling less power output and also with box rise higher ohms less output also) but still, here 24 watts over per channel could have blown crossovers but 1000 over on a sub amp and you still won't see rated. (lots of variables, different beast, just saying)

2007 Chevy Tahoe (SOLD)

12 ~ FI Audio X series 10" w/BP option

2 ~ DC Audio 5.0K @0.67

3 ~ DC Audio 5.0K @1.0 

2 ~ PPI 3 way sets (not installed yet)

1 ~ RF T400-4, 1 ~ RF T600-2, 1 ~ RF T600-4

4 ~ CT Sounds 5.25" Strato comps  (rear fill only)

1 ~ XS Power D4800

1 ~ XS Power D3400

8 ~ XS Power XP3000

160 stock alt, Mechman 370 Elite, 185 DC Power

320+ Sq. Ft. Sound Deadener

Pioneer AVH-X5500BHS

Youtube: https://www.youtube.com/user/knfjdkghjudfhsgkjdhf/videos?sort=dd&view=0&shelf_id=0

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The rating on those components may be the mechanical limit determined by the manufacturer maybe they missed something regarding the thermal limit of the crossovers? Idk.

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The rating on those components may be the mechanical limit determined by the manufacturer maybe they missed something regarding the thermal limit of the crossovers? Idk.

All good bro, I understand. Appreciate the help. =)

In the future I will definitely start out with under powering things first. Just hate to not know if I am at the full potential of the equipment I possess.

2007 Chevy Tahoe (SOLD)

12 ~ FI Audio X series 10" w/BP option

2 ~ DC Audio 5.0K @0.67

3 ~ DC Audio 5.0K @1.0 

2 ~ PPI 3 way sets (not installed yet)

1 ~ RF T400-4, 1 ~ RF T600-2, 1 ~ RF T600-4

4 ~ CT Sounds 5.25" Strato comps  (rear fill only)

1 ~ XS Power D4800

1 ~ XS Power D3400

8 ~ XS Power XP3000

160 stock alt, Mechman 370 Elite, 185 DC Power

320+ Sq. Ft. Sound Deadener

Pioneer AVH-X5500BHS

Youtube: https://www.youtube.com/user/knfjdkghjudfhsgkjdhf/videos?sort=dd&view=0&shelf_id=0

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They keep blowing because they can't handle the power. It's that simple, crossovers only melt because they got overpowered.

And passive crossovers usually can't handle 100W rms, or you would need some big and expensive crossovers.

Thinking is the root of all problems...

You ALWAYS get what you pay for.

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I don't see how you over powered anything in this setup,I have a somewhat similar setup and no issues. My T400-4 runs my tweets on 2 ohm load and I had the T600-4 on 2ohm load at one point for a while and all my equipment survived. I did lose a Boston Acoustics tweeter because I accidentally switched mode on the 360.3 knob and sent all FQ's to all of my tweets but the BA's were the only ones that didn't survive and it was only for a second and turned the volume down. I would maybe suggest getting a dedicated tweet amp/speaker amp,use xovers for the tweets and use the amp xover for speakers,that's what I'm doing

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My thinking was that the amplifier is not strong enough to handle a pair of components ... Not giving the components too much power.

They keep blowing because they can't handle the power. It's that simple, crossovers only melt because they got overpowered.

And passive crossovers usually can't handle 100W rms, or you would need some big and expensive crossovers.

I was thinking that too much stress on the amplifier, over working the amplifier, and causing too much current draw makes devices like that get too hot ...

We put gobs of power on our components with no problems ... I'm running my 5.25" component set at 150 wpc at the moment

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How would wiring to 4 ohms each channel be over working the amp? Especially when it is certified down to 2 ohms.

So I'm sorry if I missed something but you have 4 sets of nendo comps ran with the provided x overs and have one set (4 ohms) per channel on the 600-4?

I've gotten a blowjob and picked up my iphone behind her back to see what email notification I got from smd before

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So I'm sorry if I missed something but you have 4 sets of nendo comps ran with the provided x overs and have one set (4 ohms) per channel on the 600-4?

2 sets of Nendo comps, 2 mids, 2 tweets, and 2 X-overs in each. 4 of each speaker and 4 crossovers. 4 ohms on each channel of yes, a T600-4

I am not here to argue guys. Still wish I knew what I was doing wrong, will get to the bottom of it eventually. BUT, pretend I was over working the amp so I switched from my T600-4 to either my T800-4ad or my T1000-4ad........ According to some people I already blew them because of too much power so switching to a bigger amp would be more dangerous?

Bigger amp, lower gains, a lot less stress, same power, etc. etc. That could work but it's kind of a waste of amplifier power to have a 4 channel rated to go to 2 ohms sitting there running at 4 ohms on low gains.

This was a simple setup, HU and amp were the only things I had to set, no other processing. DD-1 on the HU and amp to a passive set up. Hooked up each channel of amp one at a time to make sure I had not gotten any DOA equipment, sounded good, no distorting, no hamming on it, get it all connected and tweets are no longer working, amp not hot, but crossovers are melted.......I was like um.......

Like I said, not gonna argue, Either one of you could be right, I really don't know, I appreciate all the help guys. I noobed something up and need to figure out what, lol. Will have a little time to tinker with it way later today and a tiny bit more time mid day tomorrow....

2007 Chevy Tahoe (SOLD)

12 ~ FI Audio X series 10" w/BP option

2 ~ DC Audio 5.0K @0.67

3 ~ DC Audio 5.0K @1.0 

2 ~ PPI 3 way sets (not installed yet)

1 ~ RF T400-4, 1 ~ RF T600-2, 1 ~ RF T600-4

4 ~ CT Sounds 5.25" Strato comps  (rear fill only)

1 ~ XS Power D4800

1 ~ XS Power D3400

8 ~ XS Power XP3000

160 stock alt, Mechman 370 Elite, 185 DC Power

320+ Sq. Ft. Sound Deadener

Pioneer AVH-X5500BHS

Youtube: https://www.youtube.com/user/knfjdkghjudfhsgkjdhf/videos?sort=dd&view=0&shelf_id=0

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