weshole Posted November 27, 2013 Report Share Posted November 27, 2013 Ive used the XXX's with great success. Id also look at making your own set utilizing the Exodus Anarchy's. Here is my old set in unsealed doors. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
[email protected] Posted November 27, 2013 Author Report Share Posted November 27, 2013 Looked for those anarchy speakers. Looked like they could have been a contender! Too bad they went out of business or something earlier this year =( Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
[email protected] Posted November 27, 2013 Author Report Share Posted November 27, 2013 Did you use the xxx's without a sub? If so how'd they sound? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
CleanSierra Posted November 27, 2013 Report Share Posted November 27, 2013 I'd consider a 3 way comp set. I'd also highly consider running active from like a Fosgate 360.3 and have a the mid driver mind of dedicated for as much bass as possible. I'd be curious what the SQ guys think of this, ESPECIALLY CablGuy(Randal with White Lighting). Randal is considering going NO sub stage and I'd be picking his brain if I were you. You with maybe have to piece together this 3 way set. Id get a mid driver and make a sealed pod in the door for bass response. You're probably not going to get crazy impressive bass, but you should be able to accurately reproduce a solid signal. Im not the one you want to try to troll. Just a fyi for you. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
White Lightning Posted November 27, 2013 Report Share Posted November 27, 2013 I'd consider a 3 way comp set. I'd also highly consider running active from like a Fosgate 360.3 and have a the mid driver mind of dedicated for as much bass as possible. I'd be curious what the SQ guys think of this, ESPECIALLY CablGuy(Randal with White Lighting). Randal is considering going NO sub stage and I'd be picking his brain if I were you. You with maybe have to piece together this 3 way set. Id get a mid driver and make a sealed pod in the door for bass response. You're probably not going to get crazy impressive bass, but you should be able to accurately reproduce a solid signal. Thank you Sir for those kind words ... You guys ever wonder what is actually going on when you experiment and set your crossovers really low on your midbass drivers and start getting that "popping" action with the midbass drivers ??? Throwing too much power on them ?? drivers just not strong enough to take the abuse ?? Is the driver installed correctly ?? Its normally one of two things happening ... 1. When most people build sub enclosures strong enough to handle the power from the drivers ... they do not do the same for the midbass drivers. Really ?? a small piece of mdf screwed on to the thin metal of the door ??? chances are the drivers are not making the popping noise ... its the door flexing. Get a midbass driver to work correctly and you will see stuff move ... People trip out when they see my doors flex with only my components cranking that dubstep ... 2. most amplifier companies rate their amplifiers by xxx watts per channel at 1k htz ... meaning that when you ask them play MUCH lower frequiencies, they can only produce about a fraction of the output power needed to give that midbass driver the proper driver control that it needs ... THIS has flagged class A/B amlpifiers as "Low Efficient" ... sad really THIS is why I went with Linear Power amplifiers ... They rate their amplifiers at xxx watts per channel at 50 htz ... meaning that they can give midbass drivers more than enough driver control so that they can play those LOWER frequiencies without making the driver "pop" and in return give you clear low frequiency output that we all desire ... So the moral of this story is that if you want your midbass driver to play low ... treat your install location like you are installing a monster sub in there and do your home work and get you a amlpifier set up that can handle giving your components the adequate power to do what you really need them to do ... As for drivers ... Linear Power (formerly Blues Car Audio) midbass drivers are 5.25, 6.5, 8, and 10" drivers ... All are designed to play completly fullrange just as the old built loudspeakers (most of you guys are referring them now as "pro audio" drivers) ... they can use the 6.5" driver for a sub bass driver if the application calls ... they can use the 10" driver as a midbass driver if the application calls ... I know, they are kinda pricey ... but name any other 5.25" component midrange/midbass driver that can play comfortable down to 70 htz like mine do on a daily basis ... So can if they can play that low, can you guess how low my door 6.5" drivers are playing ??? ... You can ask anybody that's demod my truck at the great lengths I've took to install these drivers to make them play like I want them too ... I hope I've covered everything ... Not sure if I typed everything my mind was trying to say ... I know ... I can't type worth a darn and my spelling ain't so great either ... LOL EDIT: here is a vid of my 6.5" drivers when we tested them for the doors ... please note that NOTHING else is playing in the truck at that time ... Kenwood / HELIX / Linear Power (For The Love Of Music) / Brutal Sounds / OverKill Electric Co Questions About Sound Quality ?? Try Here ... Sound Quality, What does it REALLY mean ?? SMD SOTM Winner "White Lightning" 1997 GMT400 Chevy Silverado "The Green Dickle" 1994 GMT400 Chevy "Phantom Dually" Randal's 2007 Chevy Avalanche (we haven't named this one yet) Dylan's "Brutal" 17 Chevy Cruze RS Hatch Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dwn4BassAlan Posted November 27, 2013 Report Share Posted November 27, 2013 I mean, the physics of the cone is going to be the limiting factor here. Low frequencies have larger and longer waves, while a 6.5" can "play" at 30Hz, the defined 30Hz sound wave will not be even slightly, if at all audible to the human ear. They just don't have the surface area or the xmax to properly reproduce the wave basically. Some of the better sets I've seen say 40Hz-60kHz which is still 40,000 more hertz than you will ever need (or hear) but there might be some sets out there than can get even lower. If you're not dead set on a pair that will do 30Hz, then I'm sure there is plenty out there for you lol. Biomedical/Behavioral Science Major, The (Self-Proclaimed) Undisputed-Homemade-Woofer-King Super-Neodymium-Woofer Build Log: The D4BA-V.2 http://www.stevemeadedesigns.com/board/topic/169236-diy-super-neodymium-woofer-build-log/?p=2475620 Fucking love Alan you goddamned fucking super nerd lol When Alan uses big words I don't understand It's warming up enough that the donut-punching cyclist douchenozzles are getting their two wheeled fagmobiles out. Everytime I see a guy driving a mini cooper I cant help but think he loves cock & (2/29/16)-My wife just bitched at me about throwing out things we don't really use. My response of well we don't really use your vagina so should we throw that out was evidently not the right response. I had to leave the room. I missed Alan. RIP 5/29/15 - I love you son. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Skullz Posted November 27, 2013 Report Share Posted November 27, 2013 There is not one speaker out there in the 6.5" range capable of taking 30hz abuse for very long before tearing itself apart in one way or another, and this is coming from someone who went that route and replaced speakers close to every 4 to 6 months. If spending money on speakers as quickly as you will it will be better to find a way to put a small 8" sub in your car to take the low frequency instead of your components. List of speakers gone through in a rather short period of time. Hertz HSK 165 Pioneer 6x9's 2 sets Focal access 165 Jbl p660c 2 sets Polk Audio mm691 Amazing what old school power can do to speakers when playing full range. 01 Ford focus ZX3 Pioneer AVH-X491BHS PPI PC 4800.2 Morel Maximo 6.5" x2 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
CleanSierra Posted November 27, 2013 Report Share Posted November 27, 2013 You guys are probably referring to the environment of a vehicle cabin only. I've seen a 6.5"(and smaller) in a home setup that got down and dirty into the 30s and not break a sweat. Im not the one you want to try to troll. Just a fyi for you. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
White Lightning Posted November 27, 2013 Report Share Posted November 27, 2013 List of speakers gone through in a rather short period of time. Hertz HSK 165 Pioneer 6x9's 2 sets Focal access 165 Jbl p660c 2 sets Polk Audio mm691 Amazing what old school power can do to speakers when playing full range. What amplifier ??? if you don't mind me asking ... I've seen a 6.5"(and smaller) in a home setup that got down and dirty into the 30s and not break a sweat.Yep ... same here Kenwood / HELIX / Linear Power (For The Love Of Music) / Brutal Sounds / OverKill Electric Co Questions About Sound Quality ?? Try Here ... Sound Quality, What does it REALLY mean ?? SMD SOTM Winner "White Lightning" 1997 GMT400 Chevy Silverado "The Green Dickle" 1994 GMT400 Chevy "Phantom Dually" Randal's 2007 Chevy Avalanche (we haven't named this one yet) Dylan's "Brutal" 17 Chevy Cruze RS Hatch Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Skullz Posted November 27, 2013 Report Share Posted November 27, 2013 PPI PC2600 PPI 2150AM Sadly though they both crapped out on me but that's what happens to equipment 20 years old when pushing them hard. 01 Ford focus ZX3 Pioneer AVH-X491BHS PPI PC 4800.2 Morel Maximo 6.5" x2 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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