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Posted

Yeah that's the thing that scares me away from a wall. WE did some measurements and I know I could fit 4 15's but the box will have to be a good bit taller than it is now and extend back a little bit (which I don't mind as space isn't a concern obviously) My buddy wants me to do 4 18's but idk if I can fit 4 18's in there even if we wall it. I figure at least 30 cubes net or more, but I'll have to take some more measurements to figure out everything. Pt's have way more space in the back than you would think though, especially when you remove the back seats like in mine.

If you ever get in those mids and tweets I would love to hear about how they sound. I'm planning on maybe doing some door/kick pods in the future and that was the equipment I wanted to go with because of SQ's reputation and the price.

How do you like your hdc3 12's? I heard HDC's were kind of a punchy sub. My skar vvx 12's dig into the lows but really suffer on anything above 40 hertz. Box tuning probably has something to do with it, but skar vvx's weren't really made to hit higher notes in my opinion, they were meant more as low end monsters. Would you say the hdc3's are kind of the opposite? LIke they would be good on a wider range of frequencies? One guy I know has the crossfire xs v.2 15's and even though he's tuned to 27 hertz those subs hit just about every note with authority, whereas mind drop off a little above 40 hertz and you can hear/feel the loss of loudness.

idk about the 18's .. u have to look at the cost and weight of them .. and yes the size of the box too .. fig. 6cuft per sub so 24cuft box and reinforcing it wow .plus the power they need . take it from me lol 4 15's would b way better and its still over kill for a pt ..i look at my 1 15 and its like damn and i want 4 of them lol even though its not the highest on power (1200 watts rms )

for my pt 4 15's on 2 3500 watt amps is what im planning .. i found an audio dealer that give whole sale prices so super cheep ..xxx subs for around 200 . and/or the hcca's

or im going to use sound qubed .. the hdc4 is what im looking at the price is really good.. 15's are like 389 ..12's are 379

kick pannels would be nice too .. i have the Q logic (not hook up) the imaging is really good on them.. but my feet are to big and they were in the way lol.. the 200 dollar price u can build them for cheeper .. i plan on doing it myself with some shallow mount 8" subs .. a pillars are good too .. i have a set in mine i love it ..

Yeah the 18's are a long shot and I don't wanna spend over 1,000 for the subs on rebuild, but that might change depending on a lot of factors, lol. And we are planning almost the same rebuild. I"m also planning on 2 3500's since I already have 1 Dc 3.5k.

Instead of switching to 15s why not just add 2-4 more 12s? You already have 4 of them so buying two more wouldn't be as bad as buying four new sub's all together. Six 12s would be pretty bad as a off a pair of 3.5's.

I like that idea as well, but I"m trying to get away from these skar vvx 12's and try something new. The original vision I had was to just buy 4 more and make it 8, and buy another 3.5k, but I"m tired of the way these subs play. They're just not hard hitting enough above the 40 hertz range and I want a sub capable of playing more linear on a wider range of frequencies. These skar subs only seem to truly love mid 30's.

lookin good.

Thanks man!! It's comin' along so far.

THE ANTHRACITE DYC CRUISER

-Fully dipped anthracite grey pt cruiser

-4 skar vvx 12's (version 1)

-Mechman 240 amp alt -Big three in Cadence 1/0

-1 deka intimidator g31 blacktop under the hood

-1 C&D 140ah Batt & 1 C&D 55ah batt in the rear

-Re audio/soundstream mids and highs

-Hifonics Zues 600.4

-DC Audio 3.5k

Posted

*Bump*

I got the job!

Equipment gathering starts in a couple of weeks after I get these tint tickets taken care of first! Hoping to have this thing playing in a couple of months or less!

THE ANTHRACITE DYC CRUISER

-Fully dipped anthracite grey pt cruiser

-4 skar vvx 12's (version 1)

-Mechman 240 amp alt -Big three in Cadence 1/0

-1 deka intimidator g31 blacktop under the hood

-1 C&D 140ah Batt & 1 C&D 55ah batt in the rear

-Re audio/soundstream mids and highs

-Hifonics Zues 600.4

-DC Audio 3.5k

Posted

Yeah that's the thing that scares me away from a wall. WE did some measurements and I know I could fit 4 15's but the box will have to be a good bit taller than it is now and extend back a little bit (which I don't mind as space isn't a concern obviously) My buddy wants me to do 4 18's but idk if I can fit 4 18's in there even if we wall it. I figure at least 30 cubes net or more, but I'll have to take some more measurements to figure out everything. Pt's have way more space in the back than you would think though, especially when you remove the back seats like in mine.

If you ever get in those mids and tweets I would love to hear about how they sound. I'm planning on maybe doing some door/kick pods in the future and that was the equipment I wanted to go with because of SQ's reputation and the price.

How do you like your hdc3 12's? I heard HDC's were kind of a punchy sub. My skar vvx 12's dig into the lows but really suffer on anything above 40 hertz. Box tuning probably has something to do with it, but skar vvx's weren't really made to hit higher notes in my opinion, they were meant more as low end monsters. Would you say the hdc3's are kind of the opposite? LIke they would be good on a wider range of frequencies? One guy I know has the crossfire xs v.2 15's and even though he's tuned to 27 hertz those subs hit just about every note with authority, whereas mind drop off a little above 40 hertz and you can hear/feel the loss of loudness.

I like em, they sure get loud for a pair of under powered 12s. Their not a now end monster due to the stiff suspension but mine play 30 and up with authority. If you go with soundqubed talk to AMI on here if you have any questions, he's like the soundqubed expert here. They are some badass subs and worth every penny.

Also congrats on the new job.

It's like rubbing your wiener up against a sheep.

Posted

Yeah that's the thing that scares me away from a wall. WE did some measurements and I know I could fit 4 15's but the box will have to be a good bit taller than it is now and extend back a little bit (which I don't mind as space isn't a concern obviously) My buddy wants me to do 4 18's but idk if I can fit 4 18's in there even if we wall it. I figure at least 30 cubes net or more, but I'll have to take some more measurements to figure out everything. Pt's have way more space in the back than you would think though, especially when you remove the back seats like in mine.

If you ever get in those mids and tweets I would love to hear about how they sound. I'm planning on maybe doing some door/kick pods in the future and that was the equipment I wanted to go with because of SQ's reputation and the price.

How do you like your hdc3 12's? I heard HDC's were kind of a punchy sub. My skar vvx 12's dig into the lows but really suffer on anything above 40 hertz. Box tuning probably has something to do with it, but skar vvx's weren't really made to hit higher notes in my opinion, they were meant more as low end monsters. Would you say the hdc3's are kind of the opposite? LIke they would be good on a wider range of frequencies? One guy I know has the crossfire xs v.2 15's and even though he's tuned to 27 hertz those subs hit just about every note with authority, whereas mind drop off a little above 40 hertz and you can hear/feel the loss of loudness.

I like em, they sure get loud for a pair of under powered 12s. Their not a now end monster due to the stiff suspension but mine play 30 and up with authority. If you go with soundqubed talk to AMI on here if you have any questions, he's like the soundqubed expert here. They are some badass subs and worth every penny.

Also congrats on the new job.

Okay i definitely will man thanks for the advice! Maybe I should reconsider those subs then I figured with the stiff suspension they wouldn't be too into anything under 30 which is actually part of the range I wanna play. I wanna be able to play mid 20's to upper 40's with authority. I'm also considering Dc audio subs too maybe the level 4's or the xl's but it depends on how much power I decide to run. It's between adding another 3.5k or selling the one I have or trading it and running 2 5k's.

THE ANTHRACITE DYC CRUISER

-Fully dipped anthracite grey pt cruiser

-4 skar vvx 12's (version 1)

-Mechman 240 amp alt -Big three in Cadence 1/0

-1 deka intimidator g31 blacktop under the hood

-1 C&D 140ah Batt & 1 C&D 55ah batt in the rear

-Re audio/soundstream mids and highs

-Hifonics Zues 600.4

-DC Audio 3.5k

Posted

Well it turns out I didn't' get the job after all…. They called back after I had filled out my paperwork for orientation and everything and told me they gave it to a re hire..I had my name badge and everything.. so now it's back to job searching again.

THE ANTHRACITE DYC CRUISER

-Fully dipped anthracite grey pt cruiser

-4 skar vvx 12's (version 1)

-Mechman 240 amp alt -Big three in Cadence 1/0

-1 deka intimidator g31 blacktop under the hood

-1 C&D 140ah Batt & 1 C&D 55ah batt in the rear

-Re audio/soundstream mids and highs

-Hifonics Zues 600.4

-DC Audio 3.5k

Posted

sucks about the job, kind of messed up the way they did that though. technically you were hired then laid off/fired. maybe look at the laws in your area and see if it is legal for them to fire you like that to hire an ex employee. some states require certain procedures to be followed before getting rid of an employee.

I like the dip though, interested to see how it holds up. let us know if you get any rock chips easily and how long it takes to fix it.

want to do a flat black with my whole car. I think a flat color with some nice glossy wheels and some small color accents would give a nice clean look.

t1500bdcp

2 t2d4 15"

1 t600.4

1 t400.2

1 set p1 tweets

singer alt, tons of wiring, smd vm-1, 80prs, back seat delete, still in the works, aiming for a 145-147 with the ability to play 25hz up to 50hz.

Posted

Thanks guys yeah Idk about the state laws but I already got an interview lined up for another place tomorrow so hopefully that goes well. Car is in the shop now though. It's been overheating lately and my dad took it to the shop today because yesterday i took it to have the radiator replaced and it still overheated. I'm still waiting to hear what exactly is wrong with it but they told me it's gonna cost 1000's to fix so whatever the issue is I'm disappointed. I want a new car so bad but don't have the money or insurance to go about getting one. I'm tired of always being broke down in this thing year after year.

THE ANTHRACITE DYC CRUISER

-Fully dipped anthracite grey pt cruiser

-4 skar vvx 12's (version 1)

-Mechman 240 amp alt -Big three in Cadence 1/0

-1 deka intimidator g31 blacktop under the hood

-1 C&D 140ah Batt & 1 C&D 55ah batt in the rear

-Re audio/soundstream mids and highs

-Hifonics Zues 600.4

-DC Audio 3.5k

Posted

should figure out the issue yourself. there really isn't that many different things that could be causing it.

temp sensor

fan coming on? just turn the car on and let it run, if the fan doesn't come on and the temp gauge is half way up or overheating its a relay, fan motor, or possible temp sensor.

thermostat stuck closed? how long have you had the car? how many miles on it? has the it been changed that you know of? if not its usually 3-4 bolts and about 15-20 for the thermostat

those are the most basic things to check, can test for clogs in the system to if you rent a pressure tester. builds pressure up in the coolant system and the dealer ship should be able to tell you what the pressure should be at. doubt that's the problem though, more likely to have a leak then a clog. if there is a leak when you do the pressure test it wont hold pressure.

to check if the fan motor is working run wire from the connector for the fan motor(s) to the battery, if it turns on and isn't making any nasty noises it fine. to check the relay you would have to find the high and low speed relay (assuming your car has a high and low speed relay if not take out the relay for the fan and run a jumper wire to complete the circuit) switch the 2 fan relays around and let the car run long enough t osee if the fan comes on.

if the relay checks out to be ok I would replace the temp sensor.

I recommend buying a repair manual for your car from a local parts store or online. gives better more detailed instructions on what to look for and how to test it.

t1500bdcp

2 t2d4 15"

1 t600.4

1 t400.2

1 set p1 tweets

singer alt, tons of wiring, smd vm-1, 80prs, back seat delete, still in the works, aiming for a 145-147 with the ability to play 25hz up to 50hz.

Posted

Thanks for all the tips man but found out the cylinder heads are warped inside the motor as well as tons of other damage that I don't even wanna get into. I'm sad cause this car is my baby and we are prob just gonna have to take a loss and move on to something else. The amount of money it would take to fix the damage to this car isn't worth it. It has 181k on the clock and was already a rebuilt motor to begin with. The car has been through hell. I really want a new car cause I'm sick of it breaking down every 2 monthes which is why I can never get a solid build going in it. It's time for something else now..

THE ANTHRACITE DYC CRUISER

-Fully dipped anthracite grey pt cruiser

-4 skar vvx 12's (version 1)

-Mechman 240 amp alt -Big three in Cadence 1/0

-1 deka intimidator g31 blacktop under the hood

-1 C&D 140ah Batt & 1 C&D 55ah batt in the rear

-Re audio/soundstream mids and highs

-Hifonics Zues 600.4

-DC Audio 3.5k

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