MrSkippyJ Posted January 23, 2014 Report Share Posted January 23, 2014 so I can buy all those tools and a concrete bucket or 1 single tool? geez, tough choice. but I do see that guys point, this isn't the only tool that works. But, I will let him use the concrete bucket... I understand what he is saying as well, just giving him a hard time. Jokes aside, even if that setup worked, you would then know how many VA your amplifier can put out into a bucket of concrete. Still wouldn't tell you how many Watts your amplifier puts into your SPEAKERS oh I did miss that part. I don't understand nearly enough about this stuff at this level. I do know I have no reason to know how much power I can put into a concrete bucket! 1 Quote F150: Stock 2019 Harley Road Glide: Amp: TM400Xad - 4 channel 400 watt Processor: DSR1 Fairing (Front) 6.5s -MMats PA601cx Lid (Rear) 6x9s - TMS69 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TaylorFade Posted January 23, 2014 Report Share Posted January 23, 2014 Velleman HPS140I 99$ Craftsmen clamp meter 72$ Fluke 113 true rms meter 116$ Sorry just under 300$ and you can clamp your amps power for efficiency as well as many other tasks you can do with these three items vs the AMM1. even if its true.. 3 tools vs 1 tool.. i will take the one tool tan can do it all It can't clamp DC current for efficiency. Just sayin. But yeah... less is more. Are we talking 5 gallon bucket or some other size? I'd hate to build this thing and get the wrong reading cause I used the wrong bucket. How bout the concrete? The concrete is for heat dissipation, I assume. Although, I've never heard of it before. Old coils can be used for resistance. They're fixed if they're not part of a motor. You just need a way to dissipate the heat because trust me, they get hot in a f'n hurry. Distilled water works. Or veggie oil. You can cut holes in the top of a Tupperware, put old coils in those holes, fill the Tupperware with oil or whatever and then put the lid on it where they're submursed in the fluid. You'll have to solder leads onto the coils, but there you have it. A bank of fixed resistance. A messy as shit, low power, pain in the ass bank of fixed resistance. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TonyD'Amore Posted January 23, 2014 Report Share Posted January 23, 2014 A bank of fixed resistance... sounds like Chase. 4 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
alaskanzx5 Posted January 23, 2014 Report Share Posted January 23, 2014 ^ lol Quote t1500bdcp 2 t2d4 15" 1 t600.4 1 t400.2 1 set p1 tweets singer alt, tons of wiring, smd vm-1, 80prs, back seat delete, still in the works, aiming for a 145-147 with the ability to play 25hz up to 50hz. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SINTORMAN Posted January 23, 2014 Report Share Posted January 23, 2014 so I can buy all those tools and a concrete bucket or 1 single tool? geez, tough choice. but I do see that guys point, this isn't the only tool that works. But, I will let him use the concrete bucket... I understand what he is saying as well, just giving him a hard time. Jokes aside, even if that setup worked, you would then know how many VA your amplifier can put out into a bucket of concrete. Still wouldn't tell you how many Watts your amplifier puts into your SPEAKERS say what? That's exactly what your dyno does. Uses a purely resistive load to measure power output in watts.... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Miguels Posted January 23, 2014 Report Share Posted January 23, 2014 (edited) you're confusing the AMM-1 with the AD-1.. since this thread is about the AMM-1 im assuming Tony was talking about the new tool and not the amp dyno Edited January 23, 2014 by Miguels Quote my logshttp://www.stevemead...-my-new-set-up/my blow through loghttp://www.stevemead...future-updates/ 96 ss http://www.stevemeadedesigns.com/board/topic/164094-96-impala-ss-build/ Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SINTORMAN Posted January 23, 2014 Report Share Posted January 23, 2014 you're confusing the AMM-1 with the AD-1.. since this thread is about the AMM-1 im assuming Tony was talking about the new tool and not the amp dyno yes but that in itself says the amp dyno doesn't matter since it's not connected to a real load rofl. And I doubt he would want people to think his dyno results are meaningless. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
alaskanzx5 Posted January 23, 2014 Report Share Posted January 23, 2014 yes, but the dyno is a commercial product where as the amm1 is for consumers. Quote t1500bdcp 2 t2d4 15" 1 t600.4 1 t400.2 1 set p1 tweets singer alt, tons of wiring, smd vm-1, 80prs, back seat delete, still in the works, aiming for a 145-147 with the ability to play 25hz up to 50hz. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
alaskanzx5 Posted January 23, 2014 Report Share Posted January 23, 2014 the dyno was made to.try and help give an accurate industry standard. Not the consumer a usable to for testing their amps in their car like the.amm1. Quote t1500bdcp 2 t2d4 15" 1 t600.4 1 t400.2 1 set p1 tweets singer alt, tons of wiring, smd vm-1, 80prs, back seat delete, still in the works, aiming for a 145-147 with the ability to play 25hz up to 50hz. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SINTORMAN Posted January 23, 2014 Report Share Posted January 23, 2014 You again. I thought I blocked you. rofl. If you can't see why this test is flawed you are a moron. This is SMD, not CACO. And no. The only thing you do continually is prove the only moron here is you. You stated the equipment was misused, which you failed to answer. Now you're saying the test was flawed. There are a couple points you can take from this test and depending how you look this test is NOT flawed. Surprisingly since your tune is changed, not so anti SMD right now...makes sense with the bandwagon mentality from someone who couldn't get loud if his life depended on it. Reading what someone else says is NOT intelligence. Care to provide some insight into the actual clamp method? Care to repeat your senseless ramblings? Care to provide your own factual information? God you're a fool I know you are pretty retarded but maybe I'm giving you too much credit. The scope is approaching a full clip on the screen. Anyone clamping with a scope wouldn't allow that to happen unless they were as smart as you probably. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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