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I used a RF 3sixty.2 in my acura, using the oem head unit.

I used the "sum" feature to gain me the high highs, and the lower lows.

When i "tapped" into the rear 6x9 signal with a LOC, i couldnt run below 37hz. Was annoying.

It was the OEM audio doing "its job" id expect.

I installed a .2, and summed 2 channels. It worked OK, but, I really felt like i was still "lacking" something.

Its hard to explain. I almost got my hands on a RTA, to run some pink noise, and really see if i was getting the responce

i was wanting, but, i said fuck it and chose a different plat form.... :shrug:

Thats all i got bro. I hate OEM intergration. Id almost rather just blue tooth a ipad to a DSP or some other shit... good luck.

(can you show me what line 7 and 8 are, coming INTO the factory amplifer??? is that a audio sig?)

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Line 7 and 8 coming into the factory amplifier come from the radio. I could tap into those wires before the amp from the radio but i will not have any fade. Plus i believe the amp controls most of the volume levels and frequencies. Not positive though. So when you say you summed the 2 channels how exactly did you do that?

Yes i am starting to hate this JBL system also. It is becoming a real pain to upgrade.

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So i am just going to buy an Audiocontrol processor to play around with. If I happen to mess things up i guess its a lesson learned. I would just like to know so differences between the DQ-61 and the LC7i? Or is it just the EQ and signal delay?

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I really hope if you do this, you have plans to get rid of everything stock in that truck except the source unit ...

That's what the processor I listed is made for ...

You may have to re-wire everything from the processor back ... just as if you was constructing a bran new setup in a vehicle that's never had a system in it before ...

Once you get everything from the headunit to the processor ... Everything else should fall into play as if you was designing a system from the Audio Control's diagram ... meaning aftermarket wiring / amplifiers / drivers / subs / ect ...

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Oh yes i plan on everything brand new except the rear speakers and head unit. There is a lot of reason I would like to keep the factory head unit. I want to keep steering wheel controls, XM satellite, back up camera, basically all the features that run from the factory unit. If i buy a new head unit i would have to a lot more work finding the wires and wiring everything else up. I wanna try and keep it the simplest as possible. I have done a lot of looking into this. Although I am not to sure yet on the rear speakers. If i want to keep the rear speakers I would choose the DQ-61, LC7i, or the LCQ-1. However if I want to replace the rear speakers also i would almost be choosing the LC8i, But I would like the EQ features as i would like to run a good 3-way setup in the front since i have the factory locations.

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So i am just going to buy an Audiocontrol processor to play around with. If I happen to mess things up i guess its a lesson learned. I would just like to know so differences between the DQ-61 and the LC7i? Or is it just the EQ and signal delay?

Yes the eq and signal delay.

2003 Tahoe

dc 7.5k

dc level 5 15's (3)

MMats 341's

xs power batts

lots of sky high cable

dual alts(came off the sky-high gmc and don't know who made them)

ipad in center console

vu-din in center console

all being ripped out and being sold

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I am going to go with the DQ-61. Just another quick question the factory sub is a mono sub. Would i be able to put the pos on the right and the neg on the left to create a left and right output or should i just leave it in either left or the right?

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Just a simple question to the OP... why not CALL audiocontrol and explain your question to them as im SURE they can steer you in the direction you need to go in. :unknw: That is what their in business for..... people like us!

Here is their numbers.....

http://www.audiocontrol.com/c296/Contact-Us.html

I love my staffie :good:

So anti FACEBOOK it isn't even funny

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