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Quarter Wave / T-Line tutorial-UPDATED


Forevrbumpn

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Want to stay informed... Thinking about TLine'ing HDC3 12... Sorry, I haven't read all 70 pages yet, as i have to get back to work, but can I run the subwoofer's RMS power? Or will I bottom up the woofer and screw something up? I see what 300RMS on an 18 can do, I can just imagine what 1500RMS on a 12 would do... I'm willing to build, if they come....

I don't see why not. I've built a number of them and I've yet to run a sub at or below it's RMS in one.

So, basically full tilt and don't worry too much about it? Should I set subsonic on a TLine? Say around 20-25hz? Sorry if these are dumb questions, but I don't know anything when it comes to this type of enclosure...

Also, do you guys think I can get the same output with two of the monster 8" subs out now? Like Sundown or Skar? Maybe even SoundQubed? Against one HDC3 12? This will be going in the trunk of a Toyota Camry, so I will be going with the smaller box, whichever one that is. Probably going to very close to same size with (2) 8's, and (1) 12...

2013 Toyota Camry SE

240a MechMan HO Alternator

1/0 Welding Flex Cable Big 3

CT Sounds 4000.1D

Kenwood XR400-4 Mid/High Amp

SoundQubed Q4-120 Mid Amp

Infinity Kappa 6.5 components

Kappa 6x9's for rear deck fill (coming out)

(4) 8" PRV 8MB450's

Set of SoundQubed SuperTweets

(2) DSS Ethos 12's D2's @32.5hz (building 4th order enclosure)

(2) SQ HDC3 10's @ 33.5hz (current build, loving them)

Pioneer AVH-X4600BT

100 sq/ft Stinger RoadKill Sound Deadner

120 sq/ft QMat Sound Deadener

(4) Juice Box Black Cherries

Lots and Lots of feet of SHCA wire, along with 50' of Welding 1/0

2 Runs of 1/0 Positive front to back

ToolMaker Everywhere

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I would ease into the full tilt boogie thing but I don't think you'll have a problem with the SQ subs handling a t-line. But... you never know till you try. As for the infrasonic filter, I've not needed it on any of the ones I've built.

And two 8s isn't equal to a 12. They're a little over 2/3 the cone area of a 12 but, if you're comparing two 8s in a line vs one 12 in a conventional vented box, I'd do the 8s every time.

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Want to stay informed... Thinking about TLine'ing HDC3 12... Sorry, I haven't read all 70 pages yet, as i have to get back to work, but can I run the subwoofer's RMS power? Or will I bottom up the woofer and screw something up? I see what 300RMS on an 18 can do, I can just imagine what 1500RMS on a 12 would do... I'm willing to build, if they come....

I don't see why not. I've built a number of them and I've yet to run a sub at or below it's RMS in one.

Do you think you could double the rms, of say a sundown X18?

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Want to stay informed... Thinking about TLine'ing HDC3 12... Sorry, I haven't read all 70 pages yet, as i have to get back to work, but can I run the subwoofer's RMS power? Or will I bottom up the woofer and screw something up? I see what 300RMS on an 18 can do, I can just imagine what 1500RMS on a 12 would do... I'm willing to build, if they come....

I don't see why not. I've built a number of them and I've yet to run a sub at or below it's RMS in one.

Do you think you could double the rms, of say a sundown X18?

Without a doubt. I've done it with Zv3s and SAs.

Facebook: facebook.com/audioanarchyllc

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Youtube: youtube.com/bbeljefe

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So I'm finally rejoining the T-Line game. Since my Xterra doesn't have room for a full on T-Line I've gotten some help and will be building an offset driver tapered T-Line for a pair of Eminence LAB 12's. Fs of 22hz, I'm excited to see what kind of lows this will put out.

Here's a sketchup of it. Don't mind the uncentered holes in the bracing, it probably won't be circles, just wanted to get the point across.

10313850_10203482567696563_5260711083195

I've built a couple subs using that design, though mine were for home audio use. I have been very pleased with them.

There are some other 12" subs that work well in that design besides the Lab12. I've used the JBL GTO1214 to good effect and the Infinity 1260W should work too.

Let us know how it turns out.

"Nothing prevents people from knowing the truth more than the belief they already know it."
"Making bass is easy, making music is the hard part."

Builds:

U7qkMTL.jpg  LgPgE9w.jpg  Od2G3u1.jpg  xMyLoO1.jpg  9pAlXUK.jpg

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↑ Those JBL GTO subs are way under rated and under appreciated. I've done a line with a 1014D and it performed wonderfully.

Facebook: facebook.com/audioanarchyllc

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↑ Those JBL GTO subs are way under rated and under appreciated. I've done a line with a 1014D and it performed wonderfully.

True dat. I think for their price they are pretty tough to beat.

"Nothing prevents people from knowing the truth more than the belief they already know it."
"Making bass is easy, making music is the hard part."

Builds:

U7qkMTL.jpg  LgPgE9w.jpg  Od2G3u1.jpg  xMyLoO1.jpg  9pAlXUK.jpg

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  • 3 weeks later...

I know that first post was very long winded, but its necessary. The first step is design. I need to get a 150sq inch port, 7.41ft long, in to a 48"x 25.5"x16.5" space... Not to hard... I planned out 2 folds in the box- I call this a simple "U" Turn box, or single bend

Kenstlinedimensions.jpg

With these dimensions I get 38hz for the quarter wave tuning, measured down the middle

89" total length - 7.41 ft

Math shown as,

7.41 x's 4 = 29.66ft for the full wave of 38hz

If you are at Sea level,

1130ft / 29.66 = 38.09hz

This is a 2D schematic of the test box, If you want to, go ahead and try this design, its a great design, I used it before a few times, and works great

I'm going to be trying a T-Line on an MTX T5512-04 here possibly this weekend just to see how it turns out and I've got just one question on something. Where your "line" starts at the subwoofers, the 37.5" measurement....given that your total outer dimension is 48" that would leave 46.5" internal - the 37.5" = 9" between the interior wall and your starting point of the "line". Does the starting point matter or do you just kinda start at about mid-point of the woofers which looks like that's where you have it started from?

Thanks

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I'm going to be trying a T-Line on an MTX T5512-04 here possibly this weekend just to see how it turns out and I've got just one question on something. Where your "line" starts at the subwoofers, the 37.5" measurement....given that your total outer dimension is 48" that would leave 46.5" internal - the 37.5" = 9" between the interior wall and your starting point of the "line". Does the starting point matter or do you just kinda start at about mid-point of the woofers which looks like that's where you have it started from?

Thanks

As far as the T-Lines I've built go, I wouldn't worry about the few inches, get it close and call it a day. Performance changes when it goes from computer, to table saw, to vehicle. A few inches may result in a 1 or 2 hz difference, but so far hasn't shown me any problems. Of course, like all advice, this is best administered with a grain of salt :peepwall:

p.s. be sure to get some pics up of the build! love seeing t-lines being assembled :droolcup:

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I do like this topic.....

First post here, (hope its ok to do it here...:D) been lurking for a while.

Got my son drawing up the plans in Solid works for the box for my Intrepid, using a RFD-2210, it is sitting in my truck wedge right now in the trunk, ran by a MTX Thunder 600XD mono amp 2ohm.

Basically just doing this for something to do, but if it works out kick butt!!

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