czman30 Posted November 29, 2011 Report Posted November 29, 2011 If i designed it right it would be 60 inches long 41 1/2 inches wide and 27 1/4 inches tall with a 500 square inch port, the port is 12 1/2 inches tall and 40 inches wide and a little over 9 3/4ft long, for two dc lvl 4 18's at 28.9 hertz, and i would post the design but i don't know how to post sketchup images. unless your willing to build a wall or something i wouldn't think about it Introduce a no fat chicks in the whip rule. Im gonna have tech force make up a sign that says that and put it on my car lol
Dax Posted November 30, 2011 Report Posted November 30, 2011 If i designed it right it would be 60 inches long 41 1/2 inches wide and 27 1/4 inches tall with a 500 square inch port, the port is 12 1/2 inches tall and 40 inches wide and a little over 9 3/4ft long, for two dc lvl 4 18's at 28.9 hertz, and i would post the design but i don't know how to post sketchup images. unless your willing to build a wall or something i wouldn't think about it Why would I need a wall? The Midget Looks Into Your Soul 2008 Dodge am 3500HD with the 6.7 Cummins Race Me tuner, dpf deleted kenwood double din cheap walmart speakers for now(infinity reference comps comps coming soon) 2 kicker L5's in a ported box of unknown tuning lol(soon to be changed) Power acoustic 1500.1 on the subs (for now)
STEvil Posted December 1, 2011 Report Posted December 1, 2011 dont you think a 5 foot by 4 foot by almost 3 foot enclosure is big? Hence: wall. MickyMcD - "Capable of making some serious trouser flapping volumes at where's-my-testicles frequencies, the Servo-Drives used to be fairly jaw dropping..." Any time you have have a power wire next to your frame put some rubber hosing (or cut up an innertube) around it. The wire is bound to wiggle (due to driving or flex) and the casing will eventually wear through. Hammerdown... 1% no links to outside websites, business related FB/YT pages allowed.
GoreMasterCustomAudio Posted December 1, 2011 Report Posted December 1, 2011 i have done a single 18 in a tline. it was a wall in a explorer. I can't stop building!!! 4 DC LeveL 4XL 18 Blow Through Re-BuildThe newest addition My '97 Ford Explorer BuildMy First Build 8 RF P1 12's My Myspace Add MeMy Facebook Add Me oh, your a hypocrite too bro.....your mom has my name on her left tit - and you still like her dont you? If youre masturbating to that sub already, wait until you get a real sub... I think your nutsack will shrivel up.
STEvil Posted December 2, 2011 Report Posted December 2, 2011 That vid almost makes me want to put my 18's in a t-line when I do my blow-thru lol MickyMcD - "Capable of making some serious trouser flapping volumes at where's-my-testicles frequencies, the Servo-Drives used to be fairly jaw dropping..." Any time you have have a power wire next to your frame put some rubber hosing (or cut up an innertube) around it. The wire is bound to wiggle (due to driving or flex) and the casing will eventually wear through. Hammerdown... 1% no links to outside websites, business related FB/YT pages allowed.
bumpinTL364 Posted December 3, 2011 Report Posted December 3, 2011 Question about double-baffling; I want to double baffle (well, add another 1.25" of baffle) so that my port area can fit with my subwoofer's mounting depth. If i didn't do this, I would have to make a small cabinet for the woofer and start the line at the first point where the port size is correct. Would setting the woofer out another 1.25" make any difference in performance? and would this make the line more efficient than if i used a design like 87regal has up? masterbation is free, and even saves you money.sorry but someone had to say itsorry, Jimmy...beat you to it (no pun intended) LOLDON'T get a wife. Best advice I never got, and now it's too late My build: 12" DCON in a dorm room. New/current build: 8" woofer, custom amplifier block, fiberglassed speaker pods
STEvil Posted December 4, 2011 Report Posted December 4, 2011 A small chamber behind the driver is ok, it actually adds to the compliance of the air mass in the enclosure giving you a slight bit more fudge factor. Thats why some people add the small spacers at the start of the t-line as well. A baffle-spacer wont hurt but I would add the internal spacers too. edit - see coffee-table t-line on previous page for example of internal spacers MickyMcD - "Capable of making some serious trouser flapping volumes at where's-my-testicles frequencies, the Servo-Drives used to be fairly jaw dropping..." Any time you have have a power wire next to your frame put some rubber hosing (or cut up an innertube) around it. The wire is bound to wiggle (due to driving or flex) and the casing will eventually wear through. Hammerdown... 1% no links to outside websites, business related FB/YT pages allowed.
bumpinTL364 Posted December 4, 2011 Report Posted December 4, 2011 hmmm, well sir you make it seem like either type of box design should perform fine for me. thank you. masterbation is free, and even saves you money.sorry but someone had to say itsorry, Jimmy...beat you to it (no pun intended) LOLDON'T get a wife. Best advice I never got, and now it's too late My build: 12" DCON in a dorm room. New/current build: 8" woofer, custom amplifier block, fiberglassed speaker pods
Dax Posted December 6, 2011 Report Posted December 6, 2011 Hey coremaster what kinda power are you putting to that 18, and what is your highest score? The Midget Looks Into Your Soul 2008 Dodge am 3500HD with the 6.7 Cummins Race Me tuner, dpf deleted kenwood double din cheap walmart speakers for now(infinity reference comps comps coming soon) 2 kicker L5's in a ported box of unknown tuning lol(soon to be changed) Power acoustic 1500.1 on the subs (for now)
StreetMetalBen Posted December 10, 2011 Report Posted December 10, 2011 a little more time added to the drawings dead on 34hz How did i never see this box before?? how does it sound? Louder than a normal t-line? Think it would be a good box for the 12' hx2 that you built me Ken?
Recommended Posts
Archived
This topic is now archived and is closed to further replies.