Jump to content
Sundown Audio

Budget Amps not doing as well with the lows as quality amps


33hz

Recommended Posts

Posted

So I'm sure I'm not the only one to notice this but I've noticed this pattern with cheaper amps. It seems with all variable being equal, same car, same sub/enclosure, same tune on the amp, budget amps don't seem to have the same sound quality in the lower frequencies.

I have a kicker amp on my subs, a few friends have fosgate and JL and a few other friends have audiopipe, hifonics and JBL.

We know how to tune amps but there is a clear difference between them that tuning doesn't seem to change. It's not that the lows aren't there, it just seem they don't hit with same authority.

Anyway I'm not having this issue with my set up just kind of curious why this is and what can be done for those with the cheaper amps. Would an independent crossover help this? The thing is boosted music still slams lows on their set ups just not regular music, so how about a 10 band eq to boost 32hz band?

Basshead not audiophile

Posted

What kind of sub?

Cube ft of box?

Port size.

brand of amp?

http://www.stevemeadedesigns.com/board/garage/vehicle/2438-jeep-commander/


th_140x100square.jpgMechman_140x100px.JPGDCHome.jpgI

image_url-76414-1423274612_thumb.jpgimage_url-76414-1423320284_thumb.jpg

Pioneer P99RS
Ampere 3800
2-Ampere 125/4
4-6.5 inch Hertz HSK XL Mids
4-8 inch JL Audio ZR Midwoofer

2-5.25 Satori Mids
2-Morel Tweeters, 2 Hertz Milles 3 inch on A pillars
2-Hertz Silk tweeters
DC Audio Level 5/12
Skyhigh Wire
Mechman 320
XS Power D3100

MO Funniest Thread of the Year 2013: http://www.stevemead...dy-being-a-pos/

Posted

First off ... Not all setups are the same just because the amplifiers have the same specs ...

Second ... Welcome to SMD brother !!!

You need to check all aspects of the builds ... Correct power and electrical, adequate enclosure design, drivers used, vehicle type ... and anything else would have factors that cause this ...

Not saying any of the amplifiers you listed as "cheap" or what not ... but the amplifier only makes up part of the system ...

EQ ??? No ... I would focus on wiring, electrical, drivers, and enclosure design before you go a pointing fingers ...

Independant crossover ?? depends on what equipment you have already. If the amplifier has it's own crossover, then adding additional crossovers wil throw your phasing off and could sound worse ...

Hope this helps some ... after all, these are only just my suggestions here ...

Kenwood / HELIX / Linear Power (For The Love Of Music) / Brutal Sounds / OverKill Electric Co 

Questions About Sound Quality ?? Try Here ... Sound Quality, What does it REALLY mean ?? 

SMD SOTM Winner "White Lightning" 1997 GMT400 Chevy Silverado   

"The Green Dickle" 1994 GMT400 Chevy "Phantom Dually"   

Randal's 2007 Chevy Avalanche (we haven't named this one yet)

Dylan's "Brutal" 17 Chevy Cruze RS Hatch                         

Posted

I've noticed this too. Bottom line buy quality amps

Still Living in the 90's

MTX Thunder 2300x

MTX Thunder 2150x

MTX Thunder 275x

MTX Thunder 1500dx <---still searching

Posted

Ok for example, in my ford focus hatchback I run a kicker zx750.1 on a single 12" typeR, 2.2ft^3 32hz ported box. I run the crossover at 80hz, bass boost -0 and set the gain with a DD-1.

Amps I've had in my car with this same sub/wiring are, jl 500/1, rf punch 800a2, alpine mrp m500, jbl 1200.1 and hifonics 1200w (not sure the model)

Crossovers set @80hz, bass boost off, gain set with a DD-1. The RF, JL and Kicker all hit the 30hz-34hz range with authority while the alpine, JBL and Hifonics all struggled to sound balanced. The lows were there but did play with force.

Basshead not audiophile

Posted

I have had a bunch of cheap amps. And never had your problem. I Run a BRZ 2400 right now. And will play 26-30hz with authority. And my box is tuned to 41 hz.

01 focus se

110 amp alt

Big 3 sky high and stinger hpm ofc 1/0

Super start platinum AGM (starting)

2 runs of 1/0 Execution audio front to back

Kenwood double DIN DDx271

A pillars- orion 4" super tweeter and 2-1" alpines.

Orion xtx 64 in the front doors

2:1 4th order bandpass

Sealed off trunk

Digital designs deadener on roof/ rear deck

Orion hcca 12s (black coils)

Orion xtr3700.1

Orion xtr250.2 mid/highs

All sky high 1/0 in trunk dual runs(power/ground)

Sky high dual 1/0 inputs

2 xs power D3100 in back

Sky high batt blocks

Rose audio batt blocks

Stinger volt meter

All sky high 1\0 fuse and holders

Db link remote/ rca

Posted

This is a topic that I don't see mentioned much, and that is how an amp *sounds*. Its commonplace in home audio to compare and review amps and judge them on how they sound, but in car audio I never see much about how the amp sounds, only about how much power it makes. I'm interested to see what others think about sonic qualities of car amps. I understand the environment is completely different, but all things being equal, like OP stated, you should be able to judge how an amp sounds (at least to yourself)

Posted

I've got a friend who's pretty insistent that certain amps make more power at certain frequencies (like horsepower at certain RPMs in an engine) or one can be much punchier than another. I've always felt like he just can't get out of the gearhead mindset, but maybe there is something to it? My only guesses are that I believe impedance raises at lower frequencies and budget amps are already pushed closer to the limit so they drop off in wattage more against higher resistance. Or that people with budget amps are less likely to buy nicer subs and spend the time building proper enclosures. I think probably more of the second.

Archived

This topic is now archived and is closed to further replies.

  • Recently Browsing   0 members

    • No registered users viewing this page.
  • Who's Online   0 Members, 0 Anonymous, 689 Guests (See full list)

    • There are no registered users currently online
×
×
  • Create New...