AA98hoe Posted February 25, 2014 Report Share Posted February 25, 2014 But I can see multiple points creating heat on the stud time to change to 4/0 TEAM DC AUDIO VEHICLE:98 chevy tahoe 2wd 3-4 drop HEADUNIT:alpine 9886 PREAMP:arcaudio FRONT STAGE:4-6 1/2s selinium,DD component set and 4-selinium tweeters in each door KICKPANELS:jl audio 5 1/4 REAR DOORS: dd components 6 1/2s HIGHS AMPS:zapco 750.2 on front doors,zapco an another 750.2 on kicks and rear doors SUBS:4-ascendant audio 18s with 5 spiders in a custom box built by KINGSUV SUB AMP: 2-dc7.5s ALTERNATORS: 3-mechmans 1- 425comp, 1-smd spec350, 1-270 with adj voltage harness on custom dc bracket WIRE:10-runs 0g front to back BATTERIES:6-d1400s TL results:157.1 at 38hz and 156.8 at headrest score @37hz. STATE AND NATIONAL RECORD IN MECA S5. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Amart88 Posted February 25, 2014 Author Report Share Posted February 25, 2014 But I can see multiple points creating heat on the stud time to change to 4/0 or do the 2 runs in one lug thing. My 2005 s10 blazer build. 4 zcon 18's walled. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Kyblack76 Posted February 25, 2014 Report Share Posted February 25, 2014 But I can see multiple points creating heat on the stud time to change to 4/0 or do the 2 runs in one lug thing. The one lug wouldnt do anything for the low bat thingy MM is talking about. Id expect the entire bank to help "back fill" the low cell. If you saw a shitty resting voltage on your entire bank, reason would stand, you have a bad cell. maybe im lost?... yes.. i am. SMD SUPER SELLER The Burban Build Blazer Build sold Acura trunk build sold Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Amart88 Posted February 25, 2014 Author Report Share Posted February 25, 2014 But I can see multiple points creating heat on the stud time to change to 4/0 or do the 2 runs in one lug thing. The one lug wouldnt do anything for the low bat thingy MM is talking about. Id expect the entire bank to help "back fill" the low cell. If you saw a shitty resting voltage on your entire bank, reason would stand, you have a bad cell. maybe im lost?... yes.. i am. I kind of understand... so the resistance is only caused when there is a back flow form rear batts which heats the stud with "multiple" lugs. Therefore (somehow) heats the regulator? i'm in space. just floating................................................................................................................................................................................................... I believe MM, just my brain don't know how to process it. My 2005 s10 blazer build. 4 zcon 18's walled. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
01 S-10 Posted February 25, 2014 Report Share Posted February 25, 2014 4 runs on each alt is completely not necessary and a waste TDH FTW !!! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Kranny Posted February 25, 2014 Report Share Posted February 25, 2014 wheres d'amore when you need him Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Kyblack76 Posted February 25, 2014 Report Share Posted February 25, 2014 4 runs on each alt is completely not necessary and a waste Not even trying to be a cock.. BUT... Necessary? For you.... maybe not (you know Ray is one of the loudest non wall set ups on the planet right) but 2 simple connections on the alt hot stud shouldnt be all that big of a deal. Most, are told to add a larger gauge, WITH your OEM line. Is that not 2 connections? Again.... .. i have 2, wait! i have 3 ISH due to my VCM ... so..... maybe im burning my regulator up? Ive never seen a issue but shit... SMD SUPER SELLER The Burban Build Blazer Build sold Acura trunk build sold Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Kyblack76 Posted February 25, 2014 Report Share Posted February 25, 2014 wheres d'amore when you need him Making me my other amp.... SMD SUPER SELLER The Burban Build Blazer Build sold Acura trunk build sold Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tarball Posted February 25, 2014 Report Share Posted February 25, 2014 i think the heated stud argument relies on the alt stud being the central connection point between rear and front batteries. If I am following this correctly. Not everyone is wired the same. I have 2 runs off of the alt but its going straight to my rear bank then from there through step downs to a small 12v in the front. I assume this makes me "safe" ? CURRENT SYSTEM: Alternator: Stock alt on mids/highs Isolated DC Power 270 SP - Charging @ 16.8v Batteries: (2) XS D1400s Power Cable: Double Runs of 1/0 KNU Kolossus Fleks Headunit: 80-PRS Sub Amp: DC 5.0k Subwoofers: 2 RE MT 15s /PSI dual .7ohm recones Subwoofer Enclosure: 9.1cubes @ 32hz - brutal. Mids & Highs Amp: CT125.4 Active Components: Mids RE XXX 6.5c Highs - 3 RE XXX tweeters per side(A pillar) Noise Control: Damplifier Pro all over the cab. Build Log If you do business with me please leave feedback here: FEEDBACK THREAD Highest Legal Score: 151.0 db Highest Musical 30 Second Average: 151.6 db Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Kyblack76 Posted February 25, 2014 Report Share Posted February 25, 2014 i think the heated stud argument relies on the alt stud being the central connection point between rear and front batteries. If I am following this correctly. Not everyone is wired the same. I have 2 runs off of the alt but its going straight to my rear bank then from there through step downs to a small 12v in the front. I assume this makes me "safe" ? Nope.. the 2 connections on the one stud is the issue where are talking about now... Where they go dont matter. We are speaking of 2 connections at the ONE alt stud. SMD SUPER SELLER The Burban Build Blazer Build sold Acura trunk build sold Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Recommended Posts
Archived
This topic is now archived and is closed to further replies.