tcilluffo2 Posted March 16, 2014 Report Share Posted March 16, 2014 Hello, I finally got the chance to build my system. In all it's a hifonics colossus 6.5k dual mono amp with 2 FI Q 15 subwoofers that are 2 ohm dual voice coil. After everything was set up and ready to go I had the subs wired down to 1 ohm each and put into each of the two channels. At a low power everything works fine but as soon as I start to really put some real power to them the amp cuts and goes into protection mode. On the amp, the diagnostics led indicates a short. As far as power I'm running 0 awg from a battery in the back of my car. That is finding a ground off a fuse block under my back seat. As far as the subs, they are 12 awg. As I believe to be the best of the best car audio guys, does anyone know what I can do or recommend any ideas? Thanks! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
EP95 Posted March 16, 2014 Report Share Posted March 16, 2014 Whats your electrical like(batteries, alternators). Edit. Like eminece said find a better ground, seat bolds are a last resort for ground. Best place is the frame. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Phaeton Posted March 16, 2014 Report Share Posted March 16, 2014 I would try a different ground. Bodys arent the best ground point. If you can, perhaps run another 1/0 gauge wire to ground. If thats not a option, take a cordless drill or grinder and make a part of your frame clean and bolt the ground to there. I assume you have the big 3 already done. 1997 subaru legacy outback Four 15's in a almost wall Rockford Fosgate t2500-1bdcp Rockford Fosgate T400-4 on tweets Rockford Fosgate T400-4 on highs Rockford Fosgate T400-2 on midrange Rockford Fosgate T400-2 on midbass Optima Yellow top batteries 270A Singer alt (working on a bracket for a second) Lots of Second Skin Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Go-N-Def Posted March 16, 2014 Report Share Posted March 16, 2014 You are putting 6k on 3k worth of ssubs. Yo dog i heard you like boxes. so i put a box inside a box so you can bass while you FAIL Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Karkov Posted March 16, 2014 Report Share Posted March 16, 2014 I'm thinking (without actually looking it up) that your amp is a single channel amps but has two terminals for hookup for ease of wiring so wiring each sub for one ohm then plugging both into the amp your amp saw 0.5 ohms and is protecting because of the low ohm load since it's rated at 1 ohm 2007 Chevy Tahoe (SOLD) 12 ~ FI Audio X series 10" w/BP option 2 ~ DC Audio 5.0K @0.67 3 ~ DC Audio 5.0K @1.0 2 ~ PPI 3 way sets (not installed yet) 1 ~ RF T400-4, 1 ~ RF T600-2, 1 ~ RF T600-4 4 ~ CT Sounds 5.25" Strato comps (rear fill only) 1 ~ XS Power D4800 1 ~ XS Power D3400 8 ~ XS Power XP3000 160 stock alt, Mechman 370 Elite, 185 DC Power 320+ Sq. Ft. Sound Deadener Pioneer AVH-X5500BHS Youtube: https://www.youtube.com/user/knfjdkghjudfhsgkjdhf/videos?sort=dd&view=0&shelf_id=0 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
truthsayer Posted March 16, 2014 Report Share Posted March 16, 2014 So then you have a .5ohm load. Is your amp .5ohm stable? Have you checked with a meter to see if it's actualy .5ohm or lower. I know when my boy ran the Q's the load was lower than .5. truthsayer Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
soundstream15 Posted March 16, 2014 Report Share Posted March 16, 2014 X2 you can't be at 1ohm with 2 dual 2 subs/ your prob at .5 and that's why. I'm pretty sure that amp is only 2ohm stable.. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Swordlordboy1234 Posted March 16, 2014 Report Share Posted March 16, 2014 Q's come in d1.4 coils. 2 subs with dual 1.4 coils if you parallel parallel wire them you will see a nominal of .33333ohms <- really freakin low. My old YouTube channel : http://www.youtube.com/user/SwordLords1234?feature=mhee My old build log : http://www.stevemeadedesigns.com/board/topic/161872-96-accord-b2-sundown-sky-high-dc-power-re-re-build-for-heatwave/page-37 My New Build - http://www.stevemeadedesigns.com/board/topic/207041-2016-mazda-6-sql-build/ 2016 Mazda 6 Touring JL Fix 86 - OEM signal correction B2 prototype DSP 6to8 B2 Ref63 - 3 way active set 2 B2 Class H quattro's 1 B2 Zero.5R @.5 2 B2 HNv3 12 d2 B2 SLIP40 - Lithium in the trunk Northstar Group 35 under the hood 100ft 2/0 welding cable 30ft 4ga welding cable 20ft 8ga welding cable All stinger OFC speaker wire Soundrive custom RCA's Tons of attention to detail.... Can it be perfect? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
soundstream15 Posted March 16, 2014 Report Share Posted March 16, 2014 That's low!!!! I wasn't sure what they came in Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Swordlordboy1234 Posted March 16, 2014 Report Share Posted March 16, 2014 Option 1. Recone subs to proper ohm load needed for that amp. Option 2. Sell that amp and get a huge 5k or 7k amp and run it at 2ohms (1.4 because FI) nominal (amp won't work hard and you will still get 3k ish rms) Option 3. Sell that amp and get 2 1500-2000 watt amps and run each sub on a single amp at 1ohm (.7 because FI) but then you have the issue of gain matching where you will need to find a dd1 and cc1 to set it up. My old YouTube channel : http://www.youtube.com/user/SwordLords1234?feature=mhee My old build log : http://www.stevemeadedesigns.com/board/topic/161872-96-accord-b2-sundown-sky-high-dc-power-re-re-build-for-heatwave/page-37 My New Build - http://www.stevemeadedesigns.com/board/topic/207041-2016-mazda-6-sql-build/ 2016 Mazda 6 Touring JL Fix 86 - OEM signal correction B2 prototype DSP 6to8 B2 Ref63 - 3 way active set 2 B2 Class H quattro's 1 B2 Zero.5R @.5 2 B2 HNv3 12 d2 B2 SLIP40 - Lithium in the trunk Northstar Group 35 under the hood 100ft 2/0 welding cable 30ft 4ga welding cable 20ft 8ga welding cable All stinger OFC speaker wire Soundrive custom RCA's Tons of attention to detail.... Can it be perfect? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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