Kyblack76 Posted March 19, 2014 Report Share Posted March 19, 2014 Follow Chevyboy, You'll be fine. SMD SUPER SELLER The Burban Build Blazer Build sold Acura trunk build sold Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
im_quagmire Posted March 19, 2014 Author Report Share Posted March 19, 2014 Here would be how You would fuse, green lines are fuses. Wiring is your preference though as far as how many runs, i would do 2 personally. And like everyone said, you will want probably 2 G31's in the rear. DAAAAAAAAAMNNNN!!!!!!! YOU JUST MADE IT ALL SO SIMPLE MAN!!! I appreciate it. Would i just run pos to neg together with an additional battery in the back? But What Do I Know? 2003 Chevy Monte Carlo SS 3.8 JVC KD-R975BTS Clarion EQS746 Kenwood P907PS Ascendant Audio 12" Havoc v.1 Ampere Audio 2000.1 MB Quart Onyx 800.4 XS Power D3400 - Hood XS Power D975 - Trunk Singer 240A Sky High OFC 0 & 4 gauge Kno Knoise Kolossus Deadener Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ChevyBoy95 Posted March 19, 2014 Report Share Posted March 19, 2014 Here would be how You would fuse, green lines are fuses. Wiring is your preference though as far as how many runs, i would do 2 personally. And like everyone said, you will want probably 2 G31's in the rear. DAAAAAAAAAMNNNN!!!!!!! YOU JUST MADE IT ALL SO SIMPLE MAN!!! I appreciate it. Would i just run pos to neg together with an additional battery in the back? yes. all that would change is a positive and negative jumper on the back batteries to connect them in parallel. Best Score to Date : 160.5 dB Outlaw (47Hz)[4 XM 15's & 2 Taramps Bass 12k's] BL : http://www.stevemeadedesigns.com/board/topic/147800-chevyboy95s-4-15s-7krms-wall-1533-db-on-half-power/YouTube: http://www.youtube.com/hitemwiththeflex/ Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SlamminBeats Posted March 20, 2014 Report Share Posted March 20, 2014 Thats alot of power your amp puts out for 1 battery in the trunk, maybe another would help. Plus you still have mids & highs to run off that electrical too. I would run 0 AWG and at least 1 run if not 2. Depends on your budget i guess. Electrical is the most important part of your system IMO. Save up and do it once and do it right. 0 AWG allows more amperage to run thru the wire Fuses @ each end of runs and after batterys to distrabution blocks Do lots of research, look at pics, decide on wiring routes, amp placements. And take your time. Good luck. thanks man, yea i plan on adding another xp3k to the trunk. I want my voltage to sit at the minimum, 13.5. so taking my time with the electrical is not going to be an issue. Here would be how You would fuse, green lines are fuses. Wiring is your preference though as far as how many runs, i would do 2 personally. And like everyone said, you will want probably 2 G31's in the rear. DAAAAAAAAAMNNNN!!!!!!! YOU JUST MADE IT ALL SO SIMPLE MAN!!! I appreciate it. Would i just run pos to neg together with an additional battery in the back? yes. all that would change is a positive and negative jumper on the back batteries to connect them in parallel. i disagree with this drawing. You need to get alt runs to the rear bank Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
hdorre Posted March 20, 2014 Report Share Posted March 20, 2014 He does.. using the front batt terminal On 5/8/2011 at 7:38 PM, Kranny said: On 5/8/2011 at 7:35 PM, 'Maxim' said: It hurts me inside when I read stuff like this and remember you're 15 LMFAO so true Mitsubishi 3000GT (Old Build) Headunit: Pioneer 80PRS Frontstage: (2) McLaren Audio MLT-2 Tweeters & (4) PRV Audio MR Series Neo 6.5" Mids Substage: 4 15" Hybrid Subs - Tantric Motors & Sundown Softies Amps: Banda 2.4D Amp (Tweets), American Bass VFL 350.4 (Mids), and (2) Ampere 3800s Electrical :Singer 260A Alt & JY Power Lithium 2005 Chevy Colorado Ext Cab Headunit: Pioneer 80PRS Frontstage: 4 PRV 700Ti Tweets & 6 10" Delta Mids on 3000wrms Substage: 6 Fi BTL 18s in a 4th Order Walkthrough on 3 Wolfram 4500s Electrical: Singer "390" and JY Power My Official Feedback Thread Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
n8ball2013 Posted March 20, 2014 Report Share Posted March 20, 2014 You do not need alt runs directly to the rear bank THERE IS NO BUILD LOG! 1998 Chevy Silverado ext cab Alpine CDA-9887 4 Team Fi 15s 2 Ampere Audio TFE 8.0 2 Ampere Audio 150.4 3 Digital Designs CS6.5 component sets Dual Mechman 370XP Elite alternators inbound! 8 XS Power d3400 6 XS power d680 Second Skin Stinger Tsunami Wiring Sky High A Real Voltmeter not a piece of shit stinger. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ChevyBoy95 Posted March 20, 2014 Report Share Posted March 20, 2014 Thats alot of power your amp puts out for 1 battery in the trunk, maybe another would help. Plus you still have mids & highs to run off that electrical too. I would run 0 AWG and at least 1 run if not 2. Depends on your budget i guess. Electrical is the most important part of your system IMO. Save up and do it once and do it right. 0 AWG allows more amperage to run thru the wire Fuses @ each end of runs and after batterys to distrabution blocks Do lots of research, look at pics, decide on wiring routes, amp placements. And take your time. Good luck. thanks man, yea i plan on adding another xp3k to the trunk. I want my voltage to sit at the minimum, 13.5. so taking my time with the electrical is not going to be an issue. Here would be how You would fuse, green lines are fuses. Wiring is your preference though as far as how many runs, i would do 2 personally. And like everyone said, you will want probably 2 G31's in the rear. DAAAAAAAAAMNNNN!!!!!!! YOU JUST MADE IT ALL SO SIMPLE MAN!!! I appreciate it. Would i just run pos to neg together with an additional battery in the back? yes. all that would change is a positive and negative jumper on the back batteries to connect them in parallel. i disagree with this drawing. You need to get alt runs to the rear bank no you dont..... they do by default off the front battery.... Best Score to Date : 160.5 dB Outlaw (47Hz)[4 XM 15's & 2 Taramps Bass 12k's] BL : http://www.stevemeadedesigns.com/board/topic/147800-chevyboy95s-4-15s-7krms-wall-1533-db-on-half-power/YouTube: http://www.youtube.com/hitemwiththeflex/ Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SlamminBeats Posted March 20, 2014 Report Share Posted March 20, 2014 LOL no front run directly from alt to rear? really? i stand by my opinion on this edit: you dont NEED them, but i believe its optimal Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
n8ball2013 Posted March 20, 2014 Report Share Posted March 20, 2014 I have zero runs from my alternators directly to my bank. I'll stand by mine. Maybe if you struggle with keeping your rear battery voltage up it would be optimal but at that point it becomes an alternator issue and not supplying enough power I have 6 and 6 runs to the rear. I can guarantee that I would gain nothing doing a run to the rear from each alt. what's your belief that it's optimal THERE IS NO BUILD LOG! 1998 Chevy Silverado ext cab Alpine CDA-9887 4 Team Fi 15s 2 Ampere Audio TFE 8.0 2 Ampere Audio 150.4 3 Digital Designs CS6.5 component sets Dual Mechman 370XP Elite alternators inbound! 8 XS Power d3400 6 XS power d680 Second Skin Stinger Tsunami Wiring Sky High A Real Voltmeter not a piece of shit stinger. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Kyblack76 Posted March 20, 2014 Report Share Posted March 20, 2014 For what ever reason, I have both. 2 runs off the alt stud. One goes to the front 3400. From there 2 runs to the back bank. Second off the alt stud goes back to the back bank. Just because. :shrugs: For what the op is doing, like I said, Chevy boys illustration is fine. SMD SUPER SELLER The Burban Build Blazer Build sold Acura trunk build sold Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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