jeepbass1 Posted March 25, 2014 Author Report Posted March 25, 2014 Well I shall see what happens after I make the box slightly larger, deaden entire vehicle and a much larger 10 x 10 port. Hopefully a 145+will be achieved. But then again my resonate frequently of 48 hz in the vehicle might change due too sound deadening.
alaskanzx5 Posted March 26, 2014 Report Posted March 26, 2014 I always thought it wad best to have more of a rectangular shape to the port unless doing round ports. t1500bdcp 2 t2d4 15" 1 t600.4 1 t400.2 1 set p1 tweets singer alt, tons of wiring, smd vm-1, 80prs, back seat delete, still in the works, aiming for a 145-147 with the ability to play 25hz up to 50hz.
ChevyBoy95 Posted March 26, 2014 Report Posted March 26, 2014 If I did a 10 x 10 port I would be tuned in the 44 hz range.... then make it longer........ that is how ports work. and i bet that 44hz port would sound better at almost all frequencies than that little bullshit 7.5x7.5 Best Score to Date : 160.5 dB Outlaw (47Hz)[4 XM 15's & 2 Taramps Bass 12k's] BL : http://www.stevemeadedesigns.com/board/topic/147800-chevyboy95s-4-15s-7krms-wall-1533-db-on-half-power/YouTube: http://www.youtube.com/hitemwiththeflex/
jeepbass1 Posted March 26, 2014 Author Report Posted March 26, 2014 If I did a 10 x 10 port I would be tuned in the 44 hz range....then make it longer........ that is how ports work. and i bet that 44hz port would sound better at almost all frequencies than that little bullshit 7.5x7.5 I only have limited space for port length around 14" length max so a 10x10 would be 44 hertz
timc31610 Posted March 26, 2014 Report Posted March 26, 2014 I always thought it wad best to have more of a rectangular shape to the port unless doing round ports. From everything I have read on port size and shape, if not round then the closer to square the better. The reason rectangular is so popular is because you get to use more common port walls and are simpler to build. Of course I could be completely wrong...lol My Build Log 94 Civic http://www.stevemeadedesigns.com/board/topic/188644-94-civic-4-door-build-loq-suggestions-wanted-will-be-super-slow-mo/ Faceebook reluctantly
CleanSierra Posted March 26, 2014 Report Posted March 26, 2014 I always thought it wad best to have more of a rectangular shape to the port unless doing round ports.From everything I have read on port size and shape, if not round then the closer to square the better. The reason rectangular is so popular is because you get to use more common port walls and are simpler to build. Of course I could be completely wrong...lol You're not wrong. Aspect ratio is an important thing to pay attention to. Im not the one you want to try to troll. Just a fyi for you.
ChevyBoy95 Posted March 26, 2014 Report Posted March 26, 2014 If I did a 10 x 10 port I would be tuned in the 44 hz range....then make it longer........ that is how ports work. and i bet that 44hz port would sound better at almost all frequencies than that little bullshit 7.5x7.5I only have limited space for port length around 14" length max so a 10x10 would be 44 hertz Try using flared PSP aero ports. 2 or 3 of those at 6" diameter would be sufficient and keep your tuning quite low and keeping your port area the same (but WAY more efficient) or gaining a bit with very little displacement. Only thing to look out for is the ports ends are flared to about 9.25" diameter Best Score to Date : 160.5 dB Outlaw (47Hz)[4 XM 15's & 2 Taramps Bass 12k's] BL : http://www.stevemeadedesigns.com/board/topic/147800-chevyboy95s-4-15s-7krms-wall-1533-db-on-half-power/YouTube: http://www.youtube.com/hitemwiththeflex/
jeepbass1 Posted March 26, 2014 Author Report Posted March 26, 2014 If I did a 10 x 10 port I would be tuned in the 44 hz range....then make it longer........ that is how ports work. and i bet that 44hz port would sound better at almost all frequencies than that little bullshit 7.5x7.5I only have limited space for port length around 14" length max so a 10x10 would be 44 hertz Try using flared PSP aero ports. 2 or 3 of those at 6" diameter would be sufficient and keep your tuning quite low and keeping your port area the same (but WAY more efficient) or gaining a bit with very little displacement. Only thing to look out for is the ports ends are flared to about 9.25" diameter wow those ports are very expensive if i where to get 3 of them.
jeepbass1 Posted April 1, 2014 Author Report Posted April 1, 2014 ok so I found major problem's on the sub box..1st. For some unknown reason there where 3 screws missing on the left subwoofer causing the sub to leak air like crazy....I fixed it pretty easily by doing some nice long wood screws.2nd. I fount that i need to do bracing on the port wall of the sub box even with 1.5" thick birch it still flexes so im going to do something for that.the out-put of the sub box increased a lot after fixing the 1st problem I took it to my buddies term lab and scored a 144.3 @40 hz this time so Im really happy.I still plan on doing a new box with proper port area and very good bracing time to bring out the threaded rod.. . Im thinking I could definitely see a 148+ in the near future.Will be starting on the new build this weekend. If you guys have any more advice I'm open ears.!!!
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