Karkov Posted April 18, 2014 Report Share Posted April 18, 2014 Oh damn, yea sorry, I have no idea then. Maybe ask them to be sure. Because it's in different case maybe? internals are the same. if its a 370xp its a 370xp. the case would not effect the idle that much. only thing i cna think of is becaue the alt may not spin as fast on that car at idle so it wont make much amperage since larger alts have a higher turn on. if that is why thats pretty crazy they went through to change that for every vechicle. That's a thought. =) Yea, I thought maybe internals could be different with different case but nvm, lol, I was wrong. =O 2007 Chevy Tahoe (SOLD) 12 ~ FI Audio X series 10" w/BP option 2 ~ DC Audio 5.0K @0.67 3 ~ DC Audio 5.0K @1.0 2 ~ PPI 3 way sets (not installed yet) 1 ~ RF T400-4, 1 ~ RF T600-2, 1 ~ RF T600-4 4 ~ CT Sounds 5.25" Strato comps (rear fill only) 1 ~ XS Power D4800 1 ~ XS Power D3400 8 ~ XS Power XP3000 160 stock alt, Mechman 370 Elite, 185 DC Power 320+ Sq. Ft. Sound Deadener Pioneer AVH-X5500BHS Youtube: https://www.youtube.com/user/knfjdkghjudfhsgkjdhf/videos?sort=dd&view=0&shelf_id=0 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TeamHT Posted April 18, 2014 Report Share Posted April 18, 2014 Simply put, there is a difference in the stators configuration. Either the power curve peaks at lower idle output or higher top end output. Sadly, you can't always have both. Tell me...does this smell like chloroform to you? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Kyblack76 Posted April 18, 2014 Report Share Posted April 18, 2014 Can't have your cake an get a handy too. Wait. .... Something like that. (I bet this is the 100th time I've said this, more/biggest, isn't always better) SMD SUPER SELLER The Burban Build Blazer Build sold Acura trunk build sold Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cgrez33 Posted April 18, 2014 Author Report Share Posted April 18, 2014 So for my use is it better to keep the DC270xP Current Build: 1999 Tahoe #ComingSoon Previous Build(s): Crossfire Magnum 5k Pontiac G6 GT Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SnowDrifter Posted April 18, 2014 Report Share Posted April 18, 2014 I'll chime in for a second: ideally you'd have something like a GM truck or suv with a large 8" crank pulley. However, lots of passenger cars have smaller pulleys that that, so it cuts the pulley ratio for the alt making it spin slower. Couple that with low idles speeds to save gas and depending on your car, idle output can really suffer. I'll use my own car as an example: 2003 forester, 5 1/3" crank pulley, 625rpm idle, dc390xp. I'm only clamping 10a at idle. Barely enough to power the voltage regulator for the alt. At 850 rpm, the alt has kicked on and I'm seeing around 175a from it. Contrast that to a team mate who had the same alt, but in an suv with a bigger crank pulley than me. 8" iirc, same idle speed. He was seeing a bit over 200a at idle. While I don't have jack. You really need to be aware of turn on speed and pulley ratios. If you really want to be slick, see if you can sweet talk a local automotive shop into using their scanner to measure your hot idle speed(don't forget to tip whoever helps you). Then on your own, measure the diameter of your crank pulley. Call up the alt company of choice, report these numbers to them, and they should be able to give you a true idle output estimate specific to your car ~~~~~~~~SAY NO TO PHOTOBUCKET~~~~~~~~ Snow's DD-1 tracks here: https://www.stevemeadedesigns.com/board/topic/167433-snows-dd-1-tracks/ My take on OFC vs CCA: https://www.stevemeadedesigns.com/board/topic/110381-things-that-piss-you-off-in-the-car-audio-world/?do=findComment&comment=2461444 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cgrez33 Posted April 18, 2014 Author Report Share Posted April 18, 2014 I'll chime in for a second: ideally you'd have something like a GM truck or suv with a large 8" crank pulley. However, lots of passenger cars have smaller pulleys that that, so it cuts the pulley ratio for the alt making it spin slower. Couple that with low idles speeds to save gas and depending on your car, idle output can really suffer. I'll use my own car as an example: 2003 forester, 5 1/3" crank pulley, 625rpm idle, dc390xp. I'm only clamping 10a at idle. Barely enough to power the voltage regulator for the alt. At 850 rpm, the alt has kicked on and I'm seeing around 175a from it. Contrast that to a team mate who had the same alt, but in an suv with a bigger crank pulley than me. 8" iirc, same idle speed. He was seeing a bit over 200a at idle. While I don't have jack. You really need to be aware of turn on speed and pulley ratios. If you really want to be slick, see if you can sweet talk a local automotive shop into using their scanner to measure your hot idle speed(don't forget to tip whoever helps you). Then on your own, measure the diameter of your crank pulley. Call up the alt company of choice, report these numbers to them, and they should be able to give you a true idle output estimate specific to your car Ok this makes alot more sense now. Thanks for the help. Now I have another question for you. The reason I plan(ned) on buying the DC370XP was because I'm upgrading my system to about 10k watts. I have 4 D3100 and 1 D3400 + DC270XP at the moment. Will that upgrade in alternators be necessary being that my current amp idles more than the 370 per say? Current Build: 1999 Tahoe #ComingSoon Previous Build(s): Crossfire Magnum 5k Pontiac G6 GT Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Karkov Posted April 18, 2014 Report Share Posted April 18, 2014 what 10k in power? I mean, what amp(s)? 10k RMS, actual RMS? 2007 Chevy Tahoe (SOLD) 12 ~ FI Audio X series 10" w/BP option 2 ~ DC Audio 5.0K @0.67 3 ~ DC Audio 5.0K @1.0 2 ~ PPI 3 way sets (not installed yet) 1 ~ RF T400-4, 1 ~ RF T600-2, 1 ~ RF T600-4 4 ~ CT Sounds 5.25" Strato comps (rear fill only) 1 ~ XS Power D4800 1 ~ XS Power D3400 8 ~ XS Power XP3000 160 stock alt, Mechman 370 Elite, 185 DC Power 320+ Sq. Ft. Sound Deadener Pioneer AVH-X5500BHS Youtube: https://www.youtube.com/user/knfjdkghjudfhsgkjdhf/videos?sort=dd&view=0&shelf_id=0 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TeamHT Posted April 18, 2014 Report Share Posted April 18, 2014 So for my use is it better to keep the DC270xP That is what you have to figure out for yourself, is it more important to have more power at idle? Or more power under throttle? I like having bigger amperage and so match batteries with my alternators to ensure I can listen at idle, play for hours, but also rev up when needed Tell me...does this smell like chloroform to you? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Karkov Posted April 18, 2014 Report Share Posted April 18, 2014 The 370 is expensive and out of stock. Keep your 270 for now, do your upgrading etc. etc. Once at 10k if you are not satisfied then upgrade your alt if need be. You have decent battery bank, no arguing that. Whether it's up to snuff for 10k or not I am not gonna debate about. Make sure your actual wiring is up to snuff but keep the batts. and alt you got, play your 10K watts and watch voltage like a hawk, if not satisfied, upgrade. That's what I would do. I mean you do already have good alt and batteries. just sayin 2007 Chevy Tahoe (SOLD) 12 ~ FI Audio X series 10" w/BP option 2 ~ DC Audio 5.0K @0.67 3 ~ DC Audio 5.0K @1.0 2 ~ PPI 3 way sets (not installed yet) 1 ~ RF T400-4, 1 ~ RF T600-2, 1 ~ RF T600-4 4 ~ CT Sounds 5.25" Strato comps (rear fill only) 1 ~ XS Power D4800 1 ~ XS Power D3400 8 ~ XS Power XP3000 160 stock alt, Mechman 370 Elite, 185 DC Power 320+ Sq. Ft. Sound Deadener Pioneer AVH-X5500BHS Youtube: https://www.youtube.com/user/knfjdkghjudfhsgkjdhf/videos?sort=dd&view=0&shelf_id=0 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cgrez33 Posted April 18, 2014 Author Report Share Posted April 18, 2014 what 10k in power? I mean, what amp(s)? 10k RMS, actual RMS? I currently have once Crescendo BC5500 plan on getting another soon. So for my use is it better to keep the DC270xP That is what you have to figure out for yourself, is it more important to have more power at idle? Or more power under throttle? I like having bigger amperage and so match batteries with my alternators to ensure I can listen at idle, play for hours, but also rev up when needed The 370 is expensive and out of stock. Keep your 270 for now, do your upgrading etc. etc. Once at 10k if you are not satisfied then upgrade your alt if need be. You have decent battery bank, no arguing that. Whether it's up to snuff for 10k or not I am not gonna debate about. Make sure your actual wiring is up to snuff but keep the batts. and alt you got, play your 10K watts and watch voltage like a hawk, if not satisfied, upgrade. That's what I would do. I mean you do already have good alt and batteries. just sayin I'll stay with my 270 gonna install my VM-1 and tune with a DD-1 to ensure no clipping etc. If power is running to low I'll look into upgrading alternator and/or 1 or two more batteries. (Problem is I'm running out of room lmao) Thanks for all the help fellas. Current Build: 1999 Tahoe #ComingSoon Previous Build(s): Crossfire Magnum 5k Pontiac G6 GT Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Recommended Posts
Archived
This topic is now archived and is closed to further replies.