gckless Posted April 19, 2014 Report Share Posted April 19, 2014 I want to put a 9"x18" (really 7"x16" because of the 1" wood overlap on each side) window in my next box. Sub will be a 24" SHD on 5k. Can I use 3/4" or do I need 1"? I would like to not use 1" if I don't need to, because that would mean I have to rabbet out 1/4" and I will only have 1/2" for screws to bite into. Plus, I don't have a rabbetting bit. But I know there's going to be a ton of pressure in there. "Clipping" is the biggest forum boner now. It's like witchcraft... it automatically explains just about everything people don't understand. My build log: http://www.stevemeadedesigns.com/board/topic/200295-gckless-2011-chevrolet-impala/ High resolution photos: Gilbert Kless Photography Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tecomah Posted April 19, 2014 Report Share Posted April 19, 2014 If you can find a way to brace it,3/4 would be fine IMO 750??! Yeah, fuck that. Fuck this website, fuck SMD, fuck Steve, fuck all of his butt buddy mods, and their couches.^ DON'T BE A DICK LIKE THIS GUY Team Subsonic Lows Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
gckless Posted April 19, 2014 Author Report Share Posted April 19, 2014 If you can find a way to brace it,3/4 would be fine IMO You mean like in the middle of the window? Definitely don't want to do that. "Clipping" is the biggest forum boner now. It's like witchcraft... it automatically explains just about everything people don't understand. My build log: http://www.stevemeadedesigns.com/board/topic/200295-gckless-2011-chevrolet-impala/ High resolution photos: Gilbert Kless Photography Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Aj11 Posted April 19, 2014 Report Share Posted April 19, 2014 i think if you did a 2 inch over lap instead of one you'd be fine! is this a vented/ported box? also where in location to the sub is the window? I'm gonna guess right behind the magnet? i think you should be fine! 3/4 plexi is really strong! jvc deck stinger 1800 front hc 2000 kinetic rear 2 runs of 1/0g big 3/4 ct 60.4 2 ct 1400.1 ct EXO 15 d1 lots of deadner type r comps front stage 6 kicker tweets rear stage lots of great stuff coming soon ho alt more bats ct comps for front stage more deadner sweet amp rack lots of L.E.D lights new deck (thinking 80 prs, or flip out) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TheBetterMethod Posted April 19, 2014 Report Share Posted April 19, 2014 I think 3/4 is totally substantial enough even without extra bracing. Those dimension are not wild enough to justify anything thicker. 2005 Subaru Outback Wagon Pioneer 9400BH Fi Q 15, SAZ1500dV3 The first build>>> http://www.stevemead...-outback-build/ 140.9 @ 36hz Sealed on dash! REBUILT!!! 2 Fi Q 15s, 2 SAZ1500dv3 146.9 @ 39hz dBDRA certified Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Aj11 Posted April 19, 2014 Report Share Posted April 19, 2014 agreed, if it was a whole side or loading wall then yea but a window should be fine. that sub is pretty nutty tho jvc deck stinger 1800 front hc 2000 kinetic rear 2 runs of 1/0g big 3/4 ct 60.4 2 ct 1400.1 ct EXO 15 d1 lots of deadner type r comps front stage 6 kicker tweets rear stage lots of great stuff coming soon ho alt more bats ct comps for front stage more deadner sweet amp rack lots of L.E.D lights new deck (thinking 80 prs, or flip out) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
n8ball2013 Posted April 19, 2014 Report Share Posted April 19, 2014 Heres how I look at it. If you are on the fence go up. No ones ever suffered from over doing it. One can suffer from not doing enough. Youll have enougg power.for things to go wrong alot faster than you may be able to catch THERE IS NO BUILD LOG! 1998 Chevy Silverado ext cab Alpine CDA-9887 4 Team Fi 15s 2 Ampere Audio TFE 8.0 2 Ampere Audio 150.4 3 Digital Designs CS6.5 component sets Dual Mechman 370XP Elite alternators inbound! 8 XS Power d3400 6 XS power d680 Second Skin Stinger Tsunami Wiring Sky High A Real Voltmeter not a piece of shit stinger. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Aj11 Posted April 19, 2014 Report Share Posted April 19, 2014 True, or just make the window a lil smaller jvc deck stinger 1800 front hc 2000 kinetic rear 2 runs of 1/0g big 3/4 ct 60.4 2 ct 1400.1 ct EXO 15 d1 lots of deadner type r comps front stage 6 kicker tweets rear stage lots of great stuff coming soon ho alt more bats ct comps for front stage more deadner sweet amp rack lots of L.E.D lights new deck (thinking 80 prs, or flip out) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
gckless Posted April 19, 2014 Author Report Share Posted April 19, 2014 Thanks for the replies. Heres how I look at it. If you are on the fence go up. No ones ever suffered from over doing it. One can suffer from not doing enough. Youll have enougg power.for things to go wrong alot faster than you may be able to catch Yeah I hear ya. It's not that I'm on the fence, it's that I have no idea. Never used plexi thicker than an amp cover. But I am going to use 3/4", unless someone chimes in that has used either sizes on around this power and says that 3/4" definitely won't work. I figure this is a fairly small window, and plexi is stronger than the wood I'm using, so I should be ok. Should. "Clipping" is the biggest forum boner now. It's like witchcraft... it automatically explains just about everything people don't understand. My build log: http://www.stevemeadedesigns.com/board/topic/200295-gckless-2011-chevrolet-impala/ High resolution photos: Gilbert Kless Photography Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
audiofanaticz Posted April 19, 2014 Report Share Posted April 19, 2014 3/4 should be fine. Built a box for a smd 18 powered with 2 saz4500s strapped at .7ohms, never an issue with the plexi at all Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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