MyRoomBeats Posted April 25, 2014 Report Share Posted April 25, 2014 So you have everything for your system and been waiting on a solution for grounding? If so then you have an extreme amount of patients my friend Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rich Schenk Posted April 25, 2014 Author Report Share Posted April 25, 2014 Had to wait for shca ofc 1/0 Ya have singer alt in and d3400 underhood Have to have patience have 3 kids and one on the way. On 3/28/2014 at 4:22 PM, KyLar96 said: Its all about the music anyway..... Do a proper install, something your happy with, Fuck everyone else...... improve in time, where you can..... its not rocket science... Tiburon build //www.stevemeadedesigns.com/board/topic/174059-97-hyundai-tiburon-build-from-ramming-to-slamming-slow-5k-build/ 2000 Mountaineer build http://www.stevemeadedesigns.com/board/topic/186736-2000-mountaineer-build-from-ramming-to-slamming-part-iislow-5k-builddc-audio-americanbassxspowersingerarcaudiostingershcavideo-on-pg7/ 2000 Mercury Mountaineer: Electrical:Singer 360 hairpin powdercoated white alt, Big 4 double run 1/0 SHCA OFC, 4 runs 1/0 OFC SHCA, limitless 70ah, HU: Pioneer deh80prs interiors: Skar sk85.4 on sb acoustics neo dome tweeters 2 Mmats sq4100s on 4 silver flute 8s(4ohm) SUB Stage: 3 DC5K [email protected] on 6 ascendant audio mayhem 12s d1.4s fully loaded Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
alaskanzx5 Posted April 25, 2014 Report Share Posted April 25, 2014 If there are pre existing spots (hitch mounting holes maybe) just clean them off and wire it up. A clean new hole and clean old hole most likely won't have a noticeable difference. as far as checking resistance you want the spot with the least amount of resistance. could use something like this ad your grounding bolt http://www.jlaudio.com/car-audio-connection-systems-power-connections-master-ground-lug t1500bdcp 2 t2d4 15" 1 t600.4 1 t400.2 1 set p1 tweets singer alt, tons of wiring, smd vm-1, 80prs, back seat delete, still in the works, aiming for a 145-147 with the ability to play 25hz up to 50hz. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rockFord_Expedition Posted April 25, 2014 Report Share Posted April 25, 2014 In the front i just found where the starte was grounded on the passenger side of the frame near. but below the strut tower and the coolant resevoir. I cleaned the location up a bit and ran my battery and alternator grounds to that location. In the rear I found a similar location on the passenger side near the spare tire. Used that for my amp grounds. Added a run to the existing battery to firewal ground, This was done with RF 1/0 but all the others are in SHCA 2/0 OFC. Old School/New School RF Build March 2015 SOTM Winner How to crimp large wire Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rockFord_Expedition Posted April 25, 2014 Report Share Posted April 25, 2014 This is a pic from another setup when I only had 1/0 all the way around. When I upgraded my alt to a DC 270XP I switched out to SHCA 2/0 The smaller cable is the OEM starter ground. Old School/New School RF Build March 2015 SOTM Winner How to crimp large wire Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Kyblack76 Posted April 25, 2014 Report Share Posted April 25, 2014 Found a thick spot. Cleaned with wire brush/wire wheel. Then I drilled, and tapped a 3/8X16 hole ran a bolt through, and then fixed it with a nut. A lil lube on there...... 3 in the rear, 2 in the front. Front is the same..... SMD SUPER SELLER The Burban Build Blazer Build sold Acura trunk build sold Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rockFord_Expedition Posted April 25, 2014 Report Share Posted April 25, 2014 U could do a new hole or clean up an original. Should work just fine. That's how I've always done it. In your room? Old School/New School RF Build March 2015 SOTM Winner How to crimp large wire Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SnowDrifter Posted April 25, 2014 Report Share Posted April 25, 2014 Think of your frame as a giant negative buss-bar Clean the area the terminal will be going to. Should be going down to the metal. Either drill a hole and put a bolt through, or tap it and bolt directly to the frame. You'll want to use one of the frame rails that go from the front of the car to the back of the car. These are generally thicker than the side-to-side braces. Ground amp to battery, and battery to frame. In the front: Battery to frame, alt casing to frame. If possible, keep the two front grounds on the same spot. Put some vaseline on the connection to seal out moisture and you're set. No reason to use loctite IMO. ~~~~~~~~SAY NO TO PHOTOBUCKET~~~~~~~~ Snow's DD-1 tracks here: https://www.stevemeadedesigns.com/board/topic/167433-snows-dd-1-tracks/ My take on OFC vs CCA: https://www.stevemeadedesigns.com/board/topic/110381-things-that-piss-you-off-in-the-car-audio-world/?do=findComment&comment=2461444 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rich Schenk Posted April 25, 2014 Author Report Share Posted April 25, 2014 Thanks guys On 3/28/2014 at 4:22 PM, KyLar96 said: Its all about the music anyway..... Do a proper install, something your happy with, Fuck everyone else...... improve in time, where you can..... its not rocket science... Tiburon build //www.stevemeadedesigns.com/board/topic/174059-97-hyundai-tiburon-build-from-ramming-to-slamming-slow-5k-build/ 2000 Mountaineer build http://www.stevemeadedesigns.com/board/topic/186736-2000-mountaineer-build-from-ramming-to-slamming-part-iislow-5k-builddc-audio-americanbassxspowersingerarcaudiostingershcavideo-on-pg7/ 2000 Mercury Mountaineer: Electrical:Singer 360 hairpin powdercoated white alt, Big 4 double run 1/0 SHCA OFC, 4 runs 1/0 OFC SHCA, limitless 70ah, HU: Pioneer deh80prs interiors: Skar sk85.4 on sb acoustics neo dome tweeters 2 Mmats sq4100s on 4 silver flute 8s(4ohm) SUB Stage: 3 DC5K [email protected] on 6 ascendant audio mayhem 12s d1.4s fully loaded Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rockFord_Expedition Posted April 25, 2014 Report Share Posted April 25, 2014 Think of your frame as a giant negative buss-bar Clean the area the terminal will be going to. Should be going down to the metal. Either drill a hole and put a bolt through, or tap it and bolt directly to the frame. You'll want to use one of the frame rails that go from the front of the car to the back of the car. These are generally thicker than the side-to-side braces. Ground amp to battery, and battery to frame. In the front: Battery to frame, alt casing to frame. If possible, keep the two front grounds on the same spot. Put some vaseline on the connection to seal out moisture and you're set. No reason to use loctite IMO. Yes, if you have a rear battery, do it that way. Old School/New School RF Build March 2015 SOTM Winner How to crimp large wire Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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