Should I upgrade Electrical???

[john253a]

with what you have at current i would want an amp thats over 12-1300rms total, you have 18-2000rms

on a 90amp alt and 2 batts, what happens once your batts are flat, you only have a supply of 90amps

you have a amp @2ohm max demand is going to 200amps

4g cable can only carry 200amp >7ft

what idd do is get your self some 0g cable occ or ofc, depends on what you afford,

do big 3 (this makes sure you don't lose anything)

1 good batt up front and another in rear

hight output alt (min 180amp)

too your question

Now question is how far can I upgrade without having to change my alternator to get full potential of my setup.. Help me!!

i think you have already exceeded what is safe

you need a power cable that will support at least a 200amps at amp so about 220-250 at front battery

a second batt in rear to assist in maintining a constante voltage with minimal dipping

[Cj Kumz]

with what you have at current i would want an amp thats over 12-1300rms total, you have 18-2000rms

on a 90amp alt and 2 batts, what happens once your batts are flat, you only have a supply of 90amps

you have a amp @2ohm max demand is going to 200amps

4g cable can only carry 200amp >7ft

what idd do is get your self some 0g cable occ or ofc, depends on what you afford,

do big 3 (this makes sure you don't lose anything)

1 good batt up front and another in rear

hight output alt (min 180amp)

too your question

Now question is how far can I upgrade without having to change my alternator to get full potential of my setup.. Help me!!

i think you have already exceeded what is safe

you need a power cable that will support at least a 200amps at amp so about 220-250 at front battery

a second batt in rear to assist in maintining a constante voltage with minimal dipping

Good points you gat there. And to make matters worse i gat an 80 amp fuse installed between the amp and the battery. For now I think I will do the 0 gauge big3 as you have recommended and get the batteries installed. Does it matter which battery is bigger between the front or back battery??

[alaskanzx5]

Never heard of those batts.

imo, the difference between say a 180amp alt and 220amp alt will be like $40-60 or at least it was for my car. I spent the extra money for the bigger alt.

oh and usually the bigger batt in back helps voltage at the amp but you can do it either way.

to check voltage at the amp you hook up the dmm to the positive and negative on the amp while playing the stereo at your usual volume.

since you have a 80 amp fuse on your wire that hasn't blown there is a good chance the amp hasn't tried pulling more then 80amps.

[rockFord_Expedition]

To answer your title question, yes.

The fact that you have to ask makes me scared for you.

That amp has no business In a vehicle that only has stock electrical.

[Cj Kumz]

Never heard of those batts.

imo, the difference between say a 180amp alt and 220amp alt will be like $40-60 or at least it was for my car. I spent the extra money for the bigger alt.

oh and usually the bigger batt in back helps voltage at the amp but you can do it either way.

to check voltage at the amp you hook up the dmm to the positive and negative on the amp while playing the stereo at your usual volume.

since you have a 80 amp fuse on your wire that hasn't blown there is a good chance the amp hasn't tried pulling more then 80amps.

So in general I am still far under 1000 rms lol. I see. Thanks a lot for your time. Will give that a shot tomorrow. I am using my gain on about 1/4 bt with b.boost at 9db. And is it safe to wire the amp remote to the accessory of the head unit, cause my remote out is dead. I other thing I noticed is when I turn up the volume a bit higher, the amp cuts off together with my head unit. Confused

[Cj Kumz]

Never heard of those batts.

imo, the difference between say a 180amp alt and 220amp alt will be like $40-60 or at least it was for my car. I spent the extra money for the bigger alt.

oh and usually the bigger batt in back helps voltage at the amp but you can do it either way.

to check voltage at the amp you hook up the dmm to the positive and negative on the amp while playing the stereo at your usual volume.

since you have a 80 amp fuse on your wire that hasn't blown there is a good chance the amp hasn't tried pulling more then 80amps.

So in general I am still far under 1000 rms lol. I see. Thanks a lot for your time. Will give that a shot tomorrow. I am using my gain on about 1/4 bt with b.boost at 9db. And is it safe to wire the amp remote to the accessory of the head unit, cause my remote out is dead. I other thing I noticed is when I turn up the volume a bit higher, the amp cuts off together with my head unit. Confused

[alaskanzx5]

Ok, last time I'm posting in here so follow closely.

1. Big 3

2. Alt

3. Batteries, from what I cam find the one you have isn't an agm deep cycle.

4. Bigger wires front to back, 0gauge ofc is best

5. Learn what the gain is (not a volume knob) and get it set right

6. Turn boost off completely, it creates clipping which is bad for speakers and electrical

7. Research electrical for car audio

8. Untill your gain is set right turn it all the way down

9. Take the amp out of the car until you have adequate electrical. From what I can see its shutting off due to inadequate electrical and I'm surprised your car isn't in flames.

10. Do some research about everything you think you know about car audio. You will be surprised.

[rockFord_Expedition]

Ok, last time I'm posting in here so follow closely.

1. Big 3

2. Alt

3. Batteries, from what I cam find the one you have isn't an agm deep cycle.

4. Bigger wires front to back, 0gauge ofc is best

5. Learn what the gain is (not a volume knob) and get it set right

6. Turn boost off completely, it creates clipping which is bad for speakers and electrical

7. Research electrical for car audio

8. Untill your gain is set right turn it all the way down

9. Take the amp out of the car until you have adequate electrical. From what I can see its shutting off due to inadequate electrical and I'm surprised your car isn't in flames.

10. Do some research about everything you think you know about car audio. You will be surprised.

1. Big 3 = 0GA OFC alt case to frame, battery - to frame, alt + to battery +

3. A battery geared for car audio use is best. When made right they offer more current delivery in bursts

6. Bass boost usually = square waves = blown subs/fried amps

9. Like I said in post 14. Best thing you could do right now.

[audiofanaticz]

Well for starters, before you worry about upgrading your alternator or even thinking of doing so, you should get a quality piece of ofc 1/0 power cable to run your saz-3500 before you blow it to shreds and back using an amp that can potential pull over 350 amps of current through the 4gauge wire your currently using. Dont matter if your only running the amp at 2 ohms or not, your ghetto rigging high price gear together to make it work and that's just not right.

in the end he max current draw is restricted to 1.8-2k rms

all he need is an elec system to support 200amp

witch 0g occ cable can do (ofc not needed but is recommend)

1 extra batt in rear

0g big 3

bigger alt (not necessary to be a h/o 240a+ just bigger then 90a you have now)

As I said, it does not matter if the amp is wired at 2 ohms or not.

Your risking blowing a great amp.

You dont skimp out with crap 4 gauge wiring on an amplifier that costs $989.99.

Even when you claim the amp will only do 1.8 to 2krms thats 180amps to 200amps ruffly, and a quality 4gauage wire like knukoncepts kolossous 4awg is only rated for 150 amps max @ 20feet.

Not to mention the 4awg wire having to work harder than it should to supply that current flow which leads to added heat in the wire, the added heat increases resistance and voltage drop at the amplifier.

Your logic is flawed to the extreme to think that ghetto rigging a nice amp and woofer on a piece of 4gauge power wire, a stock 90amp alternator and most likely a mediocre battery is fine.

[Cj Kumz]

Thanks a lot for all your input guy. Greatly appreciated. Will go back to the drawing board and start afresh. One more question ( forgive me for asking too much lol) Uhmm I have heard some people saying the battery in front has to match the one in the back? what are the pros and cons of this??