poorfish88 Posted May 10, 2014 Report Share Posted May 10, 2014 I can understand that using equipment may be best for gain matching two amps that do not strap. But other than that ear and senses has always been the way I have set all gains. I bought a DD-1 and used it twice. The first time was using it to set the gains on my 5500's and my PWX 150.4. The 5500's ended up exactly where I had had them set previously by ear. The 4 channel had to be backed down because if I used the settings it told me to I would have smoked the tweeters because the amp was rated at much more power than the tweeters would allow. The second time was used on a seperate install that the gains had to be backed down or it would have over powered the subs the person had so after that I sold it because I didnt see the need for the DD1. Maybe for setting the headunit max volume but I have always used the 80% rule when doing that. Head unit maxes out at say volume 62, well I would set gains with it at the 52-55 mark. For the guys that preach these devices what do you all do in that case? You have a component set rated at 75rms, but you have a 150rms 4 channel, are you still taking the gains to full potential based on your DD1 or are you using a true rms clamp meter to set voltage? The old 80 percent rule, LULZ... I have a Kenwood Excelon deck starts clipping at 25 out of 35. Guess what happened to one of my mids and later tweet, when I used the same idea and used 80% deck max, yepper blown. Retune with the DD1 no more blown mids, and they are a hellva alot louder. Less clicks on the deck, but I was being a pussy with the gain on the amp. Not realizing it was the decks dirty power when I would turn it to 28 not the amps gain being too high. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
kingsuv Posted May 10, 2014 Report Share Posted May 10, 2014 still amazes me how many people STILL don't get it and refuse to see the light. Some asinine statements still being posted. Fucking truth. Designing, building, and shipping boxes. Yahoo IM - kingsuv00If the listening level is too loud, please inform the driver, so he can promptly pull over, and let you out. not many cars can get me to pluggin my ears but this one.......damn. I mean the first minute is ok but that thing just really starts digging deeper and deeper in your earhole till you cant stand it no more. Seems like it does it with relative ease....16 12's on 8 amps.........gotta love it. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bcbrassard Posted May 10, 2014 Report Share Posted May 10, 2014 Ya they are pretty good shops here. They said they tune systems for $100 an hour so it was a no brianer to buy my own DD-1 to tune all my future set ups as well. AK prices are high at shops so i dont give any $ localy. Pretty sad then... our 3 shops here in Anchorage have them and we are usually 20 yrs behind the lower 48. LOLBehind? I think not. I used to call on Alaska when I worked for Rockford. I was amazed at how shops up there never lost track and still provided excellent value to their clientele. Every single shop I called on in Anchorage, Fairbanks, Wasilla, Kenai, etc. had some sort of formula that made them a bit different. I met a bunch a sharp guys in my travels up there.If you live in Alaska, you have a LOT going for you in car audio. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
gr8handogoatness Posted May 10, 2014 Report Share Posted May 10, 2014 still amazes me how many people STILL don't get it and refuse to see the light. Some asinine statements still being posted.Starting to expect it at this point. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jessica Posted May 10, 2014 Report Share Posted May 10, 2014 gotta say we buy safety knives at work so people wont cut themselves. They still do. Give someone a DD-1 and they can still use it wrong and still fry stuff. Proof is in some of the comments in this thread. Just cause you don't know how to use the tool, dont blame it when it fails. Rest in peace, walled 87 accord build log 03' Corolla build with AA Mayhem inside. My super random youtube channel and terrible camera work. Wiring comparison by CaptainzPlanetz Wire and fuse guide by Guest SyKo13 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bcbrassard Posted May 10, 2014 Report Share Posted May 10, 2014 Ya my DD-1 didnt help set my 30 watt tweeters off my 200 watt 4 ch amp so i sold it! WTF.... Its called equipment matching! People are stuborn and dont want to realize they are wrong or try new ways. Fuck Em! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
noobslayer77 Posted May 11, 2014 Author Report Share Posted May 11, 2014 what kenwood did you have? I'm wondering if mine was clipping the signal too. I blew all my door speakers and tweeters lol. 2004 Jeep Liberty Limited 2 13w7s skar 3500 cnf mids (soon) xs batteries Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
philrab Posted May 11, 2014 Report Share Posted May 11, 2014 still amazes me how many people STILL don't get it and refuse to see the light. Some asinine statements still being posted. The thing I want out of the DD1 is repeatabity. If you tune a hundred systems by ear, sure you can get some of them right. If you're good, maybe get half of them, but no person using their ears and intuition can get 100/100 systems tuned right up to the limit. It's just not possible. If the DD1 gives me a scientific, instrumented, REPEATABLE way to set gains for $150, why the Hell wouldn't you buy one? In my line of work, financial computations/calculations and payroll, we strive to automate as many of our processes as possible, and default to using MS Excel whenever plausible because its repeatable, and removed as much human error from the results. 2015 Toyota Tacoma Build Thread 2007 Mazda 3; 5000K HID's, Kenwood Excelon KDC-X997, Infinity Reference 6.5 comps in front and coaxials in the rear doors, JL 320.4 four channel, Rab Designs built ported enclosure with an SA12, Kenwood monoblock, Redline Leater shift boot/e-brake boot/center console cover, JBR short shifter/shifter bushings/rear motor mount. Build Thread 1996 Mazda Miata: Kenwood Excelon HU, Alpine speaker in the doors, Clearwater (miata specific) headrest speakers. 1994 Mazda Protege: Kenwood Excelon HU, Infinity Reference 2 ways all around, 2x RF Punch 10's in ported boxes. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jessica Posted May 11, 2014 Report Share Posted May 11, 2014 When I set my gains for my tweeters, 75 watts each, off an 85x4 amp, I used the 0db tone than backed the output on the hu down -7 on the left channel and -6 on the right. Even though the signal is clean for sure I am still taking precautions against over powering them. Like I said, just cause you use a tool doesn't mean you are using it right Rest in peace, walled 87 accord build log 03' Corolla build with AA Mayhem inside. My super random youtube channel and terrible camera work. Wiring comparison by CaptainzPlanetz Wire and fuse guide by Guest SyKo13 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
poorfish88 Posted May 11, 2014 Report Share Posted May 11, 2014 what kenwood did you have? I'm wondering if mine was clipping the signal too. I blew all my door speakers and tweeters lol. Kenwood KDC-X693 and my RCAs are Rockford twisted pair. I tested it threw my SQ2200 and didn't believe it, so I tried the test with my Eclipse Premium 32440 same results. I think my deck is just a fluke bad one, as far early clip cause I've heard of many Kenwoods with 0 clip. Or it could be user error? I have been known to break some shit. ha ha Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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