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d3100 max charge is like 14.8 volts

d1600 is meant to charge at 18 volts

which btls do you have? They have like four different generations

He has the BTLs that slam on 18volts, chuckle...... Where did he go? Maybe the zv4 good name can be restored. ha ha

I charge my 6 volt batteries at 110 volts no problem, I don't have any pictures either. But it's been

good for years and daily charging. te he

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OP, there is a rule here called "you don't have to lie to kick it"

no one is calling you a liar, but we have seen a lot of guys come in and make big claims only to find out they are full of shit. So it's always a good idea to put up proof of claims. Seeing how you are charging 12v batteries at 18v that sends up a red flag. People who know, know that those batteries are not going to be happy like that. And at the very least we might save you some heartache by letting you know that is the wrong way to do it.

No one is going to flame you unless you decide not to post some pics. Hell if you are bullshitting us and come clean now you will still get respect around here.

Anyway, welcome to the forums and looking forward to the build log!

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:NeedPics::worthless:

2007 Chevy Tahoe (SOLD)

12 ~ FI Audio X series 10" w/BP option

2 ~ DC Audio 5.0K @0.67

3 ~ DC Audio 5.0K @1.0 

2 ~ PPI 3 way sets (not installed yet)

1 ~ RF T400-4, 1 ~ RF T600-2, 1 ~ RF T600-4

4 ~ CT Sounds 5.25" Strato comps  (rear fill only)

1 ~ XS Power D4800

1 ~ XS Power D3400

8 ~ XS Power XP3000

160 stock alt, Mechman 370 Elite, 185 DC Power

320+ Sq. Ft. Sound Deadener

Pioneer AVH-X5500BHS

Youtube: https://www.youtube.com/user/knfjdkghjudfhsgkjdhf/videos?sort=dd&view=0&shelf_id=0

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Assuming this is legit, expecting to make a noticable gain with the SAME CONE AREA by merely changing brands of subs from Fi BTL is really pissing into the wind. About the only reason to go from 4 15's to 6 12's is if the geometry of your cabin doesn't allow enough port area around the 15's.

With that cone area and power it is most probable that the biggest gains to be had will come from extreme deadening and strengthening panels and optimizing the enclosure. Next would be to double power. If you can't break glass with 20K and that cone area you should be working on your box, not trying to switch brands to find big gains.

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Assuming this is legit, expecting to make a noticable gain with the SAME CONE AREA by merely changing brands of subs from Fi BTL is really pissing into the wind. About the only reason to go from 4 15's to 6 12's is if the geometry of your cabin doesn't allow enough port area around the 15's.

With that cone area and power it is most probable that the biggest gains to be had will come from extreme deadening and strengthening panels and optimizing the enclosure. Next would be to double power. If you can't break glass with 20K and that cone area you should be working on your box, not trying to switch brands to find big gains.

It's less cone area he'd need 8 12s to be in the same cone area ballpark.

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Assuming this is legit, expecting to make a noticable gain with the SAME CONE AREA by merely changing brands of subs from Fi BTL is really pissing into the wind. About the only reason to go from 4 15's to 6 12's is if the geometry of your cabin doesn't allow enough port area around the 15's.

With that cone area and power it is most probable that the biggest gains to be had will come from extreme deadening and strengthening panels and optimizing the enclosure. Next would be to double power. If you can't break glass with 20K and that cone area you should be working on your box, not trying to switch brands to find big gains.

It's less cone area he'd need 8 12s to be in the same cone area ballpark.

no, 6 12's is pretty dam close to 4 15's

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Assuming this is legit, expecting to make a noticable gain with the SAME CONE AREA by merely changing brands of subs from Fi BTL is really pissing into the wind. About the only reason to go from 4 15's to 6 12's is if the geometry of your cabin doesn't allow enough port area around the 15's.

With that cone area and power it is most probable that the biggest gains to be had will come from extreme deadening and strengthening panels and optimizing the enclosure. Next would be to double power. If you can't break glass with 20K and that cone area you should be working on your box, not trying to switch brands to find big gains.

It's less cone area he'd need 8 12s to be in the same cone area ballpark.

no, 6 12's is pretty dam close to 4 15's

I think he was talking about the guys dad's 4 18s

Chick took 3 shots of Jager, and then, pissed in my mouth.. oh.. wait.. naw.. that wasnt weird..

He probably tearin dat ass up every night. Reason for "insomnia" Ain't sleeping cause he's like a horny hamster on coke.

2000 grand prix gtp: SOLD My Home Theater Build (working progress) 2002 accord coupe

subs: 2 soundqubed hds300 12s 4'1" towers tuned to 29hz sub: AQ hdc3 12

Amp: pioneer gm9061 amp: poineer gm9601

headunit: kenwood kdc 255u mids: SQ pro mids

midbass: polk db 8s highs: stock

mids/highs: shitty off brand

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Assuming this is legit, expecting to make a noticable gain with the SAME CONE AREA by merely changing brands of subs from Fi BTL is really pissing into the wind. About the only reason to go from 4 15's to 6 12's is if the geometry of your cabin doesn't allow enough port area around the 15's.

With that cone area and power it is most probable that the biggest gains to be had will come from extreme deadening and strengthening panels and optimizing the enclosure. Next would be to double power. If you can't break glass with 20K and that cone area you should be working on your box, not trying to switch brands to find big gains.

It's less cone area he'd need 8 12s to be in the same cone area ballpark.

no, 6 12's is pretty dam close to 4 15's

Man in my head I still think I'm right, but I'm wrong.... Some reason I remember 2 12 = 1 15.

Sorry for the bad advice. I'll have to tell to others I've told ooooops I'm wrong.

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