Markous Posted May 19, 2014 Report Share Posted May 19, 2014 I have a question for you SMD forum. I am going to be building a box for a Sundown X10 (eventually ) and my planned enclosure is going to be using a 1.5" thick baffle. There doesn't seem to be a whole lot of room left for air to travel between the spider landing and the back of the baffle. This is what i mean, Will that tiny amount of space left (maybe 3/8-1/2") cause any problems with airflow from the backside of the cone into the enclosure during bigtime excursion? I'm not against bottom mounting with a 2" baffle as i just have enough room to do something like that. What say you SMD'ers? '07 Ford Ranger - DM-608 I E700.4 I SA-CX6.5 v2 I SAZ-1500D 15th (x2) I Zv6 12" D1 I SB500-34 I JP40 I On 5/21/2015 at 7:07 PM, boom50cal said: of course he gives no fucks. it's a ford ranger. only bad mother fuckers drive ford rangers Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
timc31610 Posted May 19, 2014 Report Share Posted May 19, 2014 I have wondered the same. My zv4 is in a double baffled box. Tuned in for the verdict. My Build Log 94 Civic http://www.stevemeadedesigns.com/board/topic/188644-94-civic-4-door-build-loq-suggestions-wanted-will-be-super-slow-mo/ Faceebook reluctantly Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Triticum Agricolam Posted May 20, 2014 Report Share Posted May 20, 2014 I can definitely see why you are a little concerned. In the HiFi home audio world they will often put a 45 degree chamfer on the back side of the baffle to let the speaker breath better. I don't see why that wouldn't work here as well. Just skip the spots where you are going to have mounting bolts/screws coming through. It shouldn't reduce the strength of your baffle by any meaningful amount. I see if I can find a picture of what I'm talking about. ETA: Here is a good example: The picture makes it look like he did it on the outside of the baffle, but just do that same idea on the inside. "Nothing prevents people from knowing the truth more than the belief they already know it.""Making bass is easy, making music is the hard part."Builds: Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Joe X Posted May 20, 2014 Report Share Posted May 20, 2014 OP you can just flush mount it. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
timc31610 Posted May 20, 2014 Report Share Posted May 20, 2014 OP you can just flush mount it. I know i'm not the OP but let me ask this. Lets say your double baffle is already cut for your sub opening, how do you flush mount at that point? I can't seem to find a 7/8" - 1" rabbeting bit to run around the inside to cut the flush mount out with. I know ideally you would route out two different size circles before gluing the baffles together. My Build Log 94 Civic http://www.stevemeadedesigns.com/board/topic/188644-94-civic-4-door-build-loq-suggestions-wanted-will-be-super-slow-mo/ Faceebook reluctantly Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Markous Posted May 20, 2014 Author Report Share Posted May 20, 2014 I like the suggestions so far but i do not have access to a router to chamfer the inside or flush mount to the outside. I would like to mount the sub horizontally (face up) and i have 15" of vertical space for the enclosure in my vehicle with no clearance issues for the sub. Would i just be better off using a 1" baffle to top mount, then cut a larger hole in another peice of 3/4" to give it a flush mount look? '07 Ford Ranger - DM-608 I E700.4 I SA-CX6.5 v2 I SAZ-1500D 15th (x2) I Zv6 12" D1 I SB500-34 I JP40 I On 5/21/2015 at 7:07 PM, boom50cal said: of course he gives no fucks. it's a ford ranger. only bad mother fuckers drive ford rangers Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
afrakes Posted May 20, 2014 Report Share Posted May 20, 2014 Cutting two separate holes and having them line up exactly right for the woofer to flush mount is extremely difficult. My advice, buy/borrow a router, or just deal. Vehicle: 2014 GMC Sierra 2500HD WT Head Unit: Pioneer DEH- Mids/Highs: Focal Integration ISC 165’s (front) Subs/Amps: TBD Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Triticum Agricolam Posted May 20, 2014 Report Share Posted May 20, 2014 To do the chamfer you don't have to go high tech. If you don't have access to a router you can do the same thing in a few minutes with a rasp. "Nothing prevents people from knowing the truth more than the belief they already know it.""Making bass is easy, making music is the hard part."Builds: Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Markous Posted May 20, 2014 Author Report Share Posted May 20, 2014 To do the chamfer you don't have to go high tech. If you don't have access to a router you can do the same thing in a few minutes with a rasp. True enough and being on the interior it need not be perfect. Does anyone know would doing that be sufficient enough to avoid any airflow issues with that little of space as mentioned in OP? '07 Ford Ranger - DM-608 I E700.4 I SA-CX6.5 v2 I SAZ-1500D 15th (x2) I Zv6 12" D1 I SB500-34 I JP40 I On 5/21/2015 at 7:07 PM, boom50cal said: of course he gives no fucks. it's a ford ranger. only bad mother fuckers drive ford rangers Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Joe X Posted May 20, 2014 Report Share Posted May 20, 2014 OP if a flush mount is not practical to do, you can do the following with just a jigsaw: The inner layer have a larger cutout, that's all. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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