n8ball2013 Posted May 26, 2014 Report Share Posted May 26, 2014 So as im looking at things I'm not happy with I've come to realize I have no need to have heat or AC controls in my truck. I don't use them. In fact they broke shortly after the wall went operational. Anyone just removed the panel and had no ill effects? I've seen some vehicles that just blow on the max settings with them not hooked up. This is in my truck a 98 chevy k-1500. I could use that space for some umm stuff. THERE IS NO BUILD LOG! 1998 Chevy Silverado ext cab Alpine CDA-9887 4 Team Fi 15s 2 Ampere Audio TFE 8.0 2 Ampere Audio 150.4 3 Digital Designs CS6.5 component sets Dual Mechman 370XP Elite alternators inbound! 8 XS Power d3400 6 XS power d680 Second Skin Stinger Tsunami Wiring Sky High A Real Voltmeter not a piece of shit stinger. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Keith77 Posted May 26, 2014 Report Share Posted May 26, 2014 You shouldn't have any issues. just unplug and remove it. Thats cool. Im way too old to be upset by shit like that. Your name is winston. Your own parents hated you even before you were born. My penis is bigger than your penis I'm far from loud and my roof/headliner flaps around like Adam's ass on a windy day. I think it depends more on the structure of the vehicle. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
philrab Posted May 27, 2014 Report Share Posted May 27, 2014 On the other hand, If unhooking them caused issues, you could unwrap part of that harness, and stash the panel further back in the dash to get it out of your way. 2015 Toyota Tacoma Build Thread 2007 Mazda 3; 5000K HID's, Kenwood Excelon KDC-X997, Infinity Reference 6.5 comps in front and coaxials in the rear doors, JL 320.4 four channel, Rab Designs built ported enclosure with an SA12, Kenwood monoblock, Redline Leater shift boot/e-brake boot/center console cover, JBR short shifter/shifter bushings/rear motor mount. Build Thread 1996 Mazda Miata: Kenwood Excelon HU, Alpine speaker in the doors, Clearwater (miata specific) headrest speakers. 1994 Mazda Protege: Kenwood Excelon HU, Infinity Reference 2 ways all around, 2x RF Punch 10's in ported boxes. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
truthsayer Posted May 27, 2014 Report Share Posted May 27, 2014 So as im looking at things I'm not happy with I've come to realize I have no need to have heat or AC controls in my truck. I don't use them. In fact they broke shortly after the wall went operational. Anyone just removed the panel and had no ill effects? I've seen some vehicles that just blow on the max settings with them not hooked up. This is in my truck a 98 chevy k-1500. I could use that space for some umm stuff. If tit does happen to blow on max as you say, just unplug the relay. That will kill it. It's the one behind the glove box. truthsayer Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
fox_racin4 Posted May 27, 2014 Report Share Posted May 27, 2014 Haha just unplug and push wiring into dash Im currently stuck with, No AC ( accumulator alumiun piping ripped at fire wall...) No choice on where it blows. Its kinda stuck at blowing out all the holes... ( shit.. Id be happy if all i had was defrost..) No hot/cold control.. That had a mind of its own lol I believe it will jus be the control panal ( where knobs attatch to) thats been Das boomed apart.. Also.. Gauge gauge said FU the other day... 1998 gmc extd cab 12 crossfire C710s 4 SAZ-4500s 3 Singer 400A altsbuncha mids/highs Team Asshole Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
n8ball2013 Posted May 27, 2014 Author Report Share Posted May 27, 2014 Thats how mine is. it blows what it wants to blow when it wants to blow. since I only drive it when its nice out I figured I can just get rid of it and do some stuff in my panel. THERE IS NO BUILD LOG! 1998 Chevy Silverado ext cab Alpine CDA-9887 4 Team Fi 15s 2 Ampere Audio TFE 8.0 2 Ampere Audio 150.4 3 Digital Designs CS6.5 component sets Dual Mechman 370XP Elite alternators inbound! 8 XS Power d3400 6 XS power d680 Second Skin Stinger Tsunami Wiring Sky High A Real Voltmeter not a piece of shit stinger. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
philrab Posted May 27, 2014 Report Share Posted May 27, 2014 Wish I had that option. Mine's in the shop right now getting the AC redone, and the bill is already making my stomach hurt. Still, having no AC in New Orleans in the summer in your daily driver is more painful than a mechanic's bill (just barely.) Soon as that's dealt with, back to fun stuff and getting my four channel amp installed. 2015 Toyota Tacoma Build Thread 2007 Mazda 3; 5000K HID's, Kenwood Excelon KDC-X997, Infinity Reference 6.5 comps in front and coaxials in the rear doors, JL 320.4 four channel, Rab Designs built ported enclosure with an SA12, Kenwood monoblock, Redline Leater shift boot/e-brake boot/center console cover, JBR short shifter/shifter bushings/rear motor mount. Build Thread 1996 Mazda Miata: Kenwood Excelon HU, Alpine speaker in the doors, Clearwater (miata specific) headrest speakers. 1994 Mazda Protege: Kenwood Excelon HU, Infinity Reference 2 ways all around, 2x RF Punch 10's in ported boxes. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Kyblack76 Posted May 27, 2014 Report Share Posted May 27, 2014 Ive learned when you unplug some of that shit, odd stuff can happen. Fail safe type stuff. To be sure, id unplugg everything your gonna delete, and then run it. Maybe go for a ride. Just to make sure. SMD SUPER SELLER The Burban Build Blazer Build sold Acura trunk build sold Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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