Mr DeeBeez Posted May 31, 2014 Author Report Share Posted May 31, 2014 OK so i got a smaller belt to try. will be having it put in on Monday. shouldn't take long so i probably wont even be charged for the labor. if i do, it shouldn't be that much. i will post on monday and let you know if it makes a difference. if it doesn't, what is my next step? Fi Team 18's (4) Crossfire 16k Crossfire 400.4 & 800.4 Pioneer AVH-X491bhs 140ah cmax CES 320's (2) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Broke_Audio_Addict Posted May 31, 2014 Report Share Posted May 31, 2014 Next step would be contact mechman and see if they can help you diagnose the issue. That being said a lot of people's definition of "music" is a clipped 30 hz sine wave with some 80 IQ knuckle head grunting about committing crimes and his genitals. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
CleanSierra Posted May 31, 2014 Report Share Posted May 31, 2014 The DB Link wire is fine. It's true 1/0 AWG and OFC. It doesn't bend well, but is good wire. TFade did a comparo picture with a bunch of others and even said himself that the wire is satisfactory, you won't get crap from anyone that actually KNOWS the wire, only those that don't. I've got it right now in my truck as the power wire that ran my T1000bd and T400-4. To me, like others said, it sounds like am ECU control problem. Your computer is regulating you at a lower voltage than what your Mechman can produce. It's not allowing the charge to happen at 14.2-14.6. It may take a voltage regulator like an AVBM or something similar like a VCM to help you charge where you want without the computer having its way. Im not the one you want to try to troll. Just a fyi for you. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mr DeeBeez Posted June 1, 2014 Author Report Share Posted June 1, 2014 Ok, but i know that right when I got my car, and before the stock alt went out, it was always at 14.4. Even at idle it was over 14v. Also, yesterday I started my car after work, and when I was sitting there at idle, it held a 14.2 until I started driving and came to a stop light. Then it dropped back down. Sometimes it will go to 14.2 when I am idling, and sometimes it will be at 13.0. Does this still sound like the ECU? Also, I dont know if this will help any, but when my bass is going, and right when the bass in the song stops, my voltage will sometimes jump to 14.7, and then be brought back down to 14.2. Fi Team 18's (4) Crossfire 16k Crossfire 400.4 & 800.4 Pioneer AVH-X491bhs 140ah cmax CES 320's (2) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MADVIBES Posted June 1, 2014 Report Share Posted June 1, 2014 I'd clamp your power wire coming off your alt. You can still have voltage but little current. test your amperage with a clamp at idle then turn your system up pretty loud with a test tone and see what you clamp. You never know. you may have a unibody car with shitty ground points. Your amp might be drawing a shit ton of current from a semi floating ground. Just a shot. clamp the power going into the fosgate. see how much amperage you are taking there. Just because your battery is resting at 12.8 doesnt mean its good. Go by autozone or a battery shop and have them test your cca. Im interested to see what happens here. DB DRAG PSYCHLONE PRO 156.3 30 SECOND AVERAGE FO MAX AT 26HZ LEGAL DASH DRIVER DOOR OPEN 158.0@30 HZ MY BEST SO FAR, HOPEFULLY A 160 COME FEBUARY. 156.9@26hz 158.0@30hz Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mr DeeBeez Posted June 1, 2014 Author Report Share Posted June 1, 2014 all of this would be so much easier if i could actually see my alt. the only way for me to even see it is to jack it up and take off the tire. i am really busy right now but ill see what i can do. thank you for the suggestion. i will be having a smaller belt put on tomorrow and i will see if that helps. if not, ill see what else i can do. thank you Fi Team 18's (4) Crossfire 16k Crossfire 400.4 & 800.4 Pioneer AVH-X491bhs 140ah cmax CES 320's (2) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Miguels Posted June 1, 2014 Report Share Posted June 1, 2014 what rpm does your car idle? my car idles at 500-600 rpm and my voltage drops to 13.4 12.8 being the lowest ive seen .. if its not hairpin and your car idles below 700 rpm you will have a hard time seeing 14.4 at idle.. high output alternators suck at idle rpm thats the reason they have the small pulley my logshttp://www.stevemead...-my-new-set-up/my blow through loghttp://www.stevemead...future-updates/ 96 ss http://www.stevemeadedesigns.com/board/topic/164094-96-impala-ss-build/ Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mr DeeBeez Posted June 1, 2014 Author Report Share Posted June 1, 2014 yeah, it idles pretty low. id say around 600-650. Fi Team 18's (4) Crossfire 16k Crossfire 400.4 & 800.4 Pioneer AVH-X491bhs 140ah cmax CES 320's (2) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mr DeeBeez Posted June 2, 2014 Author Report Share Posted June 2, 2014 So when i went to the shop today, he told me that the tensioner was keeping the belt tight enough to where it would not be slipping. He said that he thinks its just that my car idles so low that i am only seeing 13v at idle. it idles about 600 rpm. Every time i give it a little gas, it jumps to 14.2-14.4 and then back down after i let off. so i think thats my issue. Is there any way to increase your rpm at idle? it is annoying coming up to a stop light and have my air blow softer, and then blow harder once i hit the gas. Also, my amp will still go into protect at high volume. i thought it was due to low voltage, but my voltage doesnt really get below 13v when im driving. does this sound like the amp is bad? Fi Team 18's (4) Crossfire 16k Crossfire 400.4 & 800.4 Pioneer AVH-X491bhs 140ah cmax CES 320's (2) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest Posted June 2, 2014 Report Share Posted June 2, 2014 smaller alt pulley. but will put a tad more wear on the bearings inside the alt. dont redline the car and you will likely be fine. edit: HO alts + low idle = 0 or close to 0 output. hence why voltage drops when the alt is warm and the car is idling in Drive. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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