Wood Posted October 8, 2014 Report Share Posted October 8, 2014 Those doors are SICK!!! I wish I could make mine look as clean!! 2011 Nissan Altima aka Red Ruby HEADUNIT: Pioneer AVH X2700BS ELECTRICAL: -Singer 230a -Northstar gr34 -(2) Northstar SMS220 w/ Custom Terminals from 12V Metalworkz -100% Welding Cable FRONT STAGE:-(2 Sets) Hertz HSK165 -Hertz HSK130 -Ampere Audio 125.4 SUB STAGE: -(3) Sundown Audio SA REV2 12's -Ampere Audio 3800.1 V2 MISC (NON AUDIO RELATED): -Interior & Exterior Lights LED -Gloss Black Roof (PAINTED) -15% Front, 5% Rear Tint -Roof Spoiler -20" TSW Snettertons (20x8.5 front, 20x10 rear) -Custom Projector Retrofit (FX-R 3.0, 6.5k HID, Morimoto Mini H1 (faux projector), Quad Starry Night Halos) ----- COMING SOON!! -Aftermarket Fog Lights -Custom Painted Engine Covers My Build Log: http://www.stevemeadedesigns.com/board/topic/169869-woods-2011-altima-aka-red-ruby-new-video-more-updates/page-109 Retrofit Build Log: http://www.stevemeadedesigns.com/board/topic/185787-hid-projector-retrofitting-diy-by-wood/#entry2765346 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
PULS8 Posted October 13, 2014 Report Share Posted October 13, 2014 Updates mate? current SQ car: 98 holden combo jvc usb headunit 4 prv audio bullet tweeters 8 prv audio neo 8" 16 obsidian audio v2 12" woofers 8 crescendo bc2000d 10 120 a/h Schneider agm batts Mechman SMD 350 amp H/O alternator (dual alt setup) All Shok industries cables ..... pretty soft really Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mtnbikecrazy55 Posted October 14, 2014 Report Share Posted October 14, 2014 Wrapping or painting the trunk trim? I hate long signatures.... ...what the fuck is wrong wiht you you fucking fuckity fuck fuck head... Mtnbikecrazy55 Feedback Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Charger Posted October 15, 2014 Author Report Share Posted October 15, 2014 Thanks guys Wrapping or painting the trunk trim? It'll be wrapped, same as the interior mate. So the old girl came home! Took her for a bit of a drive seeing as I had her out, she got some attention that's for sure. And that's without people even knowing it has a stereo. Got my panel/paint priced it too so I now have a plan of attack. The panelbeater loved it! I'm so happy with how it sits. Some more happy snaps of the rear end. And the front doors, fit perfect, plenty of room, can't wait for trim. Got some pics of me reconing the new subs to come Previous 150+ daily rides: Volvo 240 wagon 2 x DD Audio 9915s walled, Isuzu Trooper 6 x DD Audio 3515s walled clamshell, Lexus LX470 2 x Kicked Solo X 18s, Lexus LS400 4 x American Bass HD18 walled SMD - System of The Month August 2008 My Youtube Videos Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SkarredSierra Posted October 15, 2014 Report Share Posted October 15, 2014 i like the way that looks. great work man. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
vetkilr01 Posted October 17, 2014 Report Share Posted October 17, 2014 looking good, keep it up. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
VIPmeetSPL Posted October 21, 2014 Report Share Posted October 21, 2014 Love the work man Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
knowledge Posted October 21, 2014 Report Share Posted October 21, 2014 nasty REFF'SMy linkEBAYhttp://feedback.ebay...ck&myworld=trueI love car audio so much because I will never be done. I can never win, and I will never get it finished or perfect. It always has me coming back for more, I can never get my fill of it, but I get what I need. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Charger Posted November 8, 2014 Author Report Share Posted November 8, 2014 Thank you guys Well I neglected the thread a little lately but things have been happening, reconed all my woofers with the PSI parts Here's some pics and info From where we left off with the stripped woofers Drilling out the direct connection holes to suit the upgraded cables Once that's done, we can clean everything with parts cleaner, especially the prepped surfaces for the glue Blow the whole lot out with compressed air, make sure everything's completely clean and also DRY!! Being dry is important or it will destroy your shims The new drop in soft parts assembly. Check out how much beefier that coil is compared to the original Shimming the coil is very very important. Use bright coloured material so you don't forget it's in there. I use big long pieces so you physically can't put the dust cap on without taking them out. You will need to experiment with different thicknesses to get your particular sub spot on. Previous 150+ daily rides: Volvo 240 wagon 2 x DD Audio 9915s walled, Isuzu Trooper 6 x DD Audio 3515s walled clamshell, Lexus LX470 2 x Kicked Solo X 18s, Lexus LS400 4 x American Bass HD18 walled SMD - System of The Month August 2008 My Youtube Videos Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Charger Posted November 8, 2014 Author Report Share Posted November 8, 2014 Always always always test fit the recone into the sub before putting any glue on, check everything lines up, check it without the shim in place also for any scraping or rubbing. Having the shim material nice and tall means you can roll the top into a cone shape and slowly lower the coil assembly down over the top. The shim should be nice and snug so it should sit firmly in place as you slowly lower it into positon. Check everything. Drop it down to the final position. Check for scraping again etc. Check the coil has no side to side movement, it should be tight, but not completely locked up. This may take a while to sort out how much material you need to use. Take your time and get it right. If you put too much in, you won't be able to pull it out afterwards and you may jam your gap with cardboard! Nobody wants cardboard in their gap. The only scraping you should hear is smooth voicecoil bobbin on carboard. Put your adhesive down. These PSI recones were supplied with two different types of adhesives. A flexible rubber cement for the surround to basket, and what they labeled as 'CA' glue, a quick drying solid adhesive for the spider to frame, which requires spraying with activator. These adhesive were terrible to use. The supplied bottles were too large for how much product was inside making it too difficult to squeeze the adhesive out neatly. Put on a generous amount, not too much that it will squish out the sides and make a mess, but obviously enough to hold it together with 4000w in it's backside. I was not happy with the supplied glues by themselves so I optied to add something else as well for security. Drop your assembly back down carefully and clamp it down!! Make sure you align the tinsel leads to the frame. Because once it's down, you're stuffed! Be careful with the clamps that they don't push the surround or spiders out of alignment. Do them offset. Give it a good 12 hours to cure and you can remove the clamps. I then proceeded to fill the void space in the surround and also the spider landing with Loctite 480 which is my favorite It's great stuff to use and always comes out neat Previous 150+ daily rides: Volvo 240 wagon 2 x DD Audio 9915s walled, Isuzu Trooper 6 x DD Audio 3515s walled clamshell, Lexus LX470 2 x Kicked Solo X 18s, Lexus LS400 4 x American Bass HD18 walled SMD - System of The Month August 2008 My Youtube Videos Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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