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fine. from the same article. This is probably where you leave the thread since it's about to argue against everything you say.

http://www.crutchfield.com/S-vH90YMKwQKF/learn/setting-amplifier-gain.html

Why you fail to mention that they used an o-scope to set the source is beyond me. You are just talking out of someone else's ass and refuse to do anything to prove what you think other than linking some article that is doing nothing other than trying to increase traffic to it's site to boost sales.

Part 1: Setting the gain with the oscilloscope

How loud can the receiver play and still play clean?

I started with the amp’s gain set to its minimum, and the speakers disconnected. I played the first tone, 40 Hz, a low bass note, only fit for subwoofers, and set the scope to view the sine wave. Then I turned up the receiver’s volume until I could see something bizarre happening to the wave’s shape. It didn’t “clip” at the top and bottom, it distorted in the middle. But I could see exactly at what volume level the distortion first appeared, and where it disappeared.

Part 2: Setting the gain using speakers and my ears The noisy part of the test

I then repeated the whole performance with one speaker connected — a Kenwood KFC-6984PS 6"x9" 4-way. I want to say, in advance, that this was not a pleasant experience. Two hours later, my ears were still painfully ringing from the very high 8K Hz tone. Jordan, also in the Labs area at the time, complained that the 4K Hz tone was still ringing in his. This method can produce high-pitched, annoying, ear-drilling sounds that could hurt your hearing if you expose yourself for too long, and definitely will bother everyone within listening distance.

For using tones and your ears to set an amp’s gain, I recommend sticking with only the 40, 100, 400, or 1K Hz tones. They don't hurt at all. The 100 Hz tone alone will do for both subwoofer and full-range speaker amps.

Edit.

And the closing conclusion to that article was this.

It’s all about the music

I think either I was a little more or less sensitive to the singers’ voices on different days, and noticed changes at different levels than I could see in the waveforms’ shapes, or the music CDs I used were recorded at a different reference levels. I certainly cranked some swing those evenings in the Crutchfield Lab.

Whatever the differences between the methods were, they all resulted in having the receiver and amp properly gain-matched, and loud, distortion-free music ensued. Using the test tones disc was easier than listening to music. even without the oscilloscope, the tones made it possible for me accurately set the gain. It was very easy to discern when the hum distorted into a buzz.

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we got us a needer

THERE IS NO BUILD LOG!

1998 Chevy Silverado ext cab

Alpine CDA-9887

4 Team Fi 15s

2 Ampere Audio TFE 8.0

2 Ampere Audio 150.4

3 Digital Designs CS6.5 component sets

Dual Mechman 370XP Elite alternators inbound!

8 XS Power d3400

6 XS power d680

Second Skin

Stinger

Tsunami Wiring

Sky High

A Real Voltmeter not a piece of shit stinger.

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fine. from the same article. This is probably where you leave the thread since it's about to argue against everything you say.

http://www.crutchfield.com/S-vH90YMKwQKF/learn/setting-amplifier-gain.html

Why you fail to mention that they used an o-scope to set the source is beyond me. You are just talking out of someone else's ass and refuse to do anything to prove what you think other than linking some article that is doing nothing other than trying to increase traffic to it's site to boost sales.

Part 1: Setting the gain with the oscilloscope

How loud can the receiver play and still play clean?

I started with the amp’s gain set to its minimum, and the speakers disconnected. I played the first tone, 40 Hz, a low bass note, only fit for subwoofers, and set the scope to view the sine wave. Then I turned up the receiver’s volume until I could see something bizarre happening to the wave’s shape. It didn’t “clip” at the top and bottom, it distorted in the middle. But I could see exactly at what volume level the distortion first appeared, and where it disappeared.

Part 2: Setting the gain using speakers and my ears The noisy part of the test

I then repeated the whole performance with one speaker connected — a Kenwood KFC-6984PS 6"x9" 4-way. I want to say, in advance, that this was not a pleasant experience. Two hours later, my ears were still painfully ringing from the very high 8K Hz tone. Jordan, also in the Labs area at the time, complained that the 4K Hz tone was still ringing in his. This method can produce high-pitched, annoying, ear-drilling sounds that could hurt your hearing if you expose yourself for too long, and definitely will bother everyone within listening distance.

For using tones and your ears to set an amp’s gain, I recommend sticking with only the 40, 100, 400, or 1K Hz tones. They don't hurt at all. The 100 Hz tone alone will do for both subwoofer and full-range speaker amps.

Edit.

And the closing conclusion to that article was this.

It’s all about the music

I think either I was a little more or less sensitive to the singers’ voices on different days, and noticed changes at different levels than I could see in the waveforms’ shapes, or the music CDs I used were recorded at a different reference levels. I certainly cranked some swing those evenings in the Crutchfield Lab.

Whatever the differences between the methods were, they all resulted in having the receiver and amp properly gain-matched, and loud, distortion-free music ensued. Using the test tones disc was easier than listening to music. even without the oscilloscope, the tones made it possible for me accurately set the gain. It was very easy to discern when the hum distorted into a buzz.

Looks like I read that part wrong!

So what about the part where he said that he ended up setting it different the 2 times he did the test? Since we are talking about how accurate setting levels by ears, why did he come up with 2 different results? He even mentioned that it could have been his ears were more or less sensitive depending on which day it was. Of course nobody will ever know since no actual tools where used, he was guessing. Which is the whole point of using tools is to avoid guessing.

 

F150:

Stock :(

 

2019 Harley Road Glide:

Amp: TM400Xad - 4 channel 400 watt

Processor: DSR1

Fairing (Front) 6.5s -MMats PA601cx

Lid (Rear) 6x9s -  TMS69

 

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Still trying to understand how DD-1 users are simply "sheep of the flock". Was that an insult?

I took it as an insult and disrespect to the owner of the forum

:ibtb:

but really I am biased from the advice he gave in this thread

http://www.stevemeadedesigns.com/board/topic/190756-help-sub-is-poping/#entry2848480

he recommends hooking up a "larger speaker" to troubleshoot a popping sound

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Why would he be banned? He's not redirecting sales to another company, he's not putting the DD-1 down at all. He's simply stating another option for those less fortunate. What is he doing that will cause him to be banned?

Current Setup: 2002 Ford Focus SE (stock electrical)

-Kenwood Excelon KDC-X397

-Infinity Kappa 6x9's in each door

-Rockford Fosgate Prime R1200-1D

-2 12" Rockford Fosgate P3D2

Backups:

-12" Power Acoustik Mofo-122X in 36hz T-Line box

-Soundstream Piasso P1.1200D

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actually hes telling you its perfectly acceptable to be a hack. look at the installs of people trying to steer you away from doing it his way. that should speak louder than any uneducated stuck in the 90s thought process he can bring forth

THERE IS NO BUILD LOG!

1998 Chevy Silverado ext cab

Alpine CDA-9887

4 Team Fi 15s

2 Ampere Audio TFE 8.0

2 Ampere Audio 150.4

3 Digital Designs CS6.5 component sets

Dual Mechman 370XP Elite alternators inbound!

8 XS Power d3400

6 XS power d680

Second Skin

Stinger

Tsunami Wiring

Sky High

A Real Voltmeter not a piece of shit stinger.

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Yes, I've wired up 6x9's to mono amps to troubleshoot weather or not the issue was the subs wired to the amplifier before. Nothing wrong with such if one makes sure to keep the gain and master volume/sub volume low so as to not pop the speaker immediately. The guy's amp was rated at 750RMS@4 ohms, surely a 100RMS 6x9's isn't going to blow from seeing rated power or less than since the volume and gain would be kept low so as to not demand more than such from the amplifier.

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Seems like everyone's butthurt because he himself doesn't idolize the DD-1 like you do. If it's not your system that may get blown, why the hell do you care? Still stuck trying to figure that out.

Current Setup: 2002 Ford Focus SE (stock electrical)

-Kenwood Excelon KDC-X397

-Infinity Kappa 6x9's in each door

-Rockford Fosgate Prime R1200-1D

-2 12" Rockford Fosgate P3D2

Backups:

-12" Power Acoustik Mofo-122X in 36hz T-Line box

-Soundstream Piasso P1.1200D

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