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Run those fuses (front to rear)


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Posted

This, boys and girls, is the difference between built right, and F'ing wrong. When you build it right, you employ ever safety precaution you can IN CASE the shit hits the fan you don't burn down your car. You use the right gauge wire/multiple runs, you fuse, you pay attention to routing and shrouding, and even after all the care something still may go wrong. If it weren't for those fuses, we could very well have one less member on this board.

Glad you're okay man, don't sweat it you'll get it back together.

2015 Toyota Tacoma Build Thread

2007 Mazda 3; 5000K HID's, Kenwood Excelon KDC-X997, Infinity Reference 6.5 comps in front and coaxials in the rear doors, JL 320.4 four channel, Rab Designs built ported enclosure with an SA12, Kenwood monoblock, Redline Leater shift boot/e-brake boot/center console cover, JBR short shifter/shifter bushings/rear motor mount.

Build Thread

 

1996 Mazda Miata: Kenwood Excelon HU, Alpine speaker in the doors, Clearwater (miata specific) headrest speakers. 

 

1994 Mazda Protege: Kenwood Excelon HU, Infinity Reference 2 ways all around, 2x RF Punch 10's in ported boxes. 

Posted

Damn dude, glad everything's ok, including you. Electricity is one of those things that always make me nervous to work with.

"Clipping" is the biggest forum boner now. It's like witchcraft... it automatically explains just about everything people don't understand.

My build log: http://www.stevemeadedesigns.com/board/topic/200295-gckless-2011-chevrolet-impala/

High resolution photos: Gilbert Kless Photography

Posted

Geez, good thing you didn't lose any equipment. I see so many people who say fuses are useless and i ask them if their car isn't worth $10 worth of fuses for fucks sake.

The cause for concern is VERY real...but I haven't used a fuse in my personal vehicles for years. :shrug:

Tell me...does this smell like chloroform to you?

Posted

Jacked the turd up, so i could get my face in there.

Seems on line poked through the plastic cover on the frame, and got a mouth full of wheel.

I ride on the over loads as it is. And a heavy heavy cycle sends my tire into the well.

It actually has eaten through the plastic cover, where my runs lie.

see the shiny shit?

thats where my tire will rub when i hit a big bouncy bump.

IMG_1005_zps3bbdd1f5.jpg

IMG_1007_zpsf7b9e71e.jpg

removed the cancer...

IMG_1008_zps6d42f41d.jpg

Ill have to join the two sections with a union. I have some killer ones at work. Ill do it, and then heat shrink it, and then , make sure they ALL stay out of the way.....

Posted

Shit. I'm checking my stuff right now!

If i was not so deep into my suspension travel, i doubt this would have been seen.

Also, i have a strong feeling, when we "re did" the back for the 4 amps, this one wire was PULLED tight, and it popped through the plastic (that the wheel has eaten up) and boom.....

Like nate said earlier, i bet it didnt take much time at all once it was seeing rotating rubber...

Posted

Shit. I'm checking my stuff right now!

If i was not so deep into my suspension travel, i doubt this would have been seen.

Also, i have a strong feeling, when we "re did" the back for the 4 amps, this one wire was PULLED tight, and it popped through the plastic (that the wheel has eaten up) and boom.....

Like nate said earlier, i bet it didnt take much time at all once it was seeing rotating rubber...

Well what happens with most of us? We put it in, then don't look at it again until we want to change something. While everything should be fine (based on the quality of the install anyway), my point is it's probably worth checking every now and then. I don't remember the last time I looked at my front-rear runs.

"Clipping" is the biggest forum boner now. It's like witchcraft... it automatically explains just about everything people don't understand.

My build log: http://www.stevemeadedesigns.com/board/topic/200295-gckless-2011-chevrolet-impala/

High resolution photos: Gilbert Kless Photography

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