TheMonolith2001 Posted September 20, 2014 Report Share Posted September 20, 2014 I haven't messed with one in a car setting that much. What curves do you guys recommend? I found a decent list of some here that seem to be more geared towards cars than rooms. http://www.diymobileaudio.com/forum/technical-advanced-car-audio-discussion/131029-target-curve-comparison.html I'll probably just dial in all of those and write down the settings on a piece of paper. Anything else I should try though? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
gckless Posted September 20, 2014 Report Share Posted September 20, 2014 That thread is probably the best thing I've seen, it's new to me. This is what I typically use: There was a diagram posted somewhere, either DIYMA or MAF, that detailed what frequencies isolate which parts of voice, instrument, what should be adjusted if you hear something specific, etc. I can't seem to find it, kinda pissed I lost it. "Clipping" is the biggest forum boner now. It's like witchcraft... it automatically explains just about everything people don't understand. My build log: http://www.stevemeadedesigns.com/board/topic/200295-gckless-2011-chevrolet-impala/ High resolution photos: Gilbert Kless Photography Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
philrab Posted September 20, 2014 Report Share Posted September 20, 2014 I don't follow any hard fast rules with EQ'ing, but the general curve I tune to listening to pink noise is similar to above. Flatten out the midrange, SLIGHT boost to low frequencies (I don't know about +9, I never take it up that high), and start rolling off around 2.5K. Of course, once I get the above curve done, I lean back in the seat and relax, shut my eyes, and start playing with things while listening to classical of live/acoustic music until it sounds right. I find those kinds of songs really reveal a poorly tuned EQ cause your ears know what the instruments are supposed to sound like, vs listening to synthesized music like EDM/dubstep/rap/ect. 2015 Toyota Tacoma Build Thread 2007 Mazda 3; 5000K HID's, Kenwood Excelon KDC-X997, Infinity Reference 6.5 comps in front and coaxials in the rear doors, JL 320.4 four channel, Rab Designs built ported enclosure with an SA12, Kenwood monoblock, Redline Leater shift boot/e-brake boot/center console cover, JBR short shifter/shifter bushings/rear motor mount. Build Thread 1996 Mazda Miata: Kenwood Excelon HU, Alpine speaker in the doors, Clearwater (miata specific) headrest speakers. 1994 Mazda Protege: Kenwood Excelon HU, Infinity Reference 2 ways all around, 2x RF Punch 10's in ported boxes. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Krakin Posted September 20, 2014 Report Share Posted September 20, 2014 Never boost, only cut. Krakin's Home Dipole Project http://www.stevemeadedesigns.com/board/topic/186153-krakins-dipole-project-new-reciever-in-rockford-science/#entry2772370 Krakin, are you some sort of mad scientist? I would have replied earlier, but I was measuring the output of my amp with a yardstick . . . What you hear is not the air pressure variation in itself but what has drawn your attention in the two streams of superimposed air pressure variations at your eardrums An acoustic event has dimensions of Time, Tone, Loudness and Space Everyone learns to render the 3-dimensional localization of sound based on the individual shape of their ears, thus no formula can achieve a definite effect for every listener. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
_paralyzed_ Posted September 20, 2014 Report Share Posted September 20, 2014 This is the shit I love. I joined SMD because of the big flashy multi alternator builds. I love audio because of the SQ side of it. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
White Lightning Posted September 20, 2014 Report Share Posted September 20, 2014 Setting up a vehicle flat with an RTA is nice, and it helps with placement for the extremists. I much prefer a vehicle with "balls". You know ... Dynamics, power and headroom. So only use the RTA as a tuning tool. Not a end all-be all to the way a SQ vehicle should be set up. Best way to get your car tuned is to get it judged regularly and go by their suggestions and make corrections and learn from them. Then and only then will you know what a "tuned" sound quality vehicle should sound like. Edit: Your MOST portion in tuning is proper time alignment ... And the best way to get this is with the help of experienced judges ... Hope this helps. Randal ... Kenwood / HELIX / Linear Power (For The Love Of Music) / Brutal Sounds / OverKill Electric Co Questions About Sound Quality ?? Try Here ... Sound Quality, What does it REALLY mean ?? SMD SOTM Winner "White Lightning" 1997 GMT400 Chevy Silverado "The Green Dickle" 1994 GMT400 Chevy "Phantom Dually" Randal's 2007 Chevy Avalanche (we haven't named this one yet) Dylan's "Brutal" 17 Chevy Cruze RS Hatch Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
philrab Posted September 21, 2014 Report Share Posted September 21, 2014 Never boost, only cut. True true. I guess a better way of stating my preference is that I like the low end freqs a few db's higher than midrange. Again, I don't consider an RTA to be gospel, I want it to sound right. 2015 Toyota Tacoma Build Thread 2007 Mazda 3; 5000K HID's, Kenwood Excelon KDC-X997, Infinity Reference 6.5 comps in front and coaxials in the rear doors, JL 320.4 four channel, Rab Designs built ported enclosure with an SA12, Kenwood monoblock, Redline Leater shift boot/e-brake boot/center console cover, JBR short shifter/shifter bushings/rear motor mount. Build Thread 1996 Mazda Miata: Kenwood Excelon HU, Alpine speaker in the doors, Clearwater (miata specific) headrest speakers. 1994 Mazda Protege: Kenwood Excelon HU, Infinity Reference 2 ways all around, 2x RF Punch 10's in ported boxes. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Le_JaJa Posted December 9, 2014 Report Share Posted December 9, 2014 That thread is probably the best thing I've seen, it's new to me. This is what I typically use: There was a diagram posted somewhere, either DIYMA or MAF, that detailed what frequencies isolate which parts of voice, instrument, what should be adjusted if you hear something specific, etc. I can't seem to find it, kinda pissed I lost it. Hi I like this target, i have tested many configuration and i appreciat +6 at +10 db at lower frequency and reduce hight frequency , decrease 3k at 20k with 1db attenuation at 20K This is my car with full speaker 3v + sub in 1/3 octave Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Krakin Posted December 9, 2014 Report Share Posted December 9, 2014 I also don't like the tune by pink noise approach, as with time you have certain frequencies that will boost that won't boost during music. Krakin's Home Dipole Project http://www.stevemeadedesigns.com/board/topic/186153-krakins-dipole-project-new-reciever-in-rockford-science/#entry2772370 Krakin, are you some sort of mad scientist? I would have replied earlier, but I was measuring the output of my amp with a yardstick . . . What you hear is not the air pressure variation in itself but what has drawn your attention in the two streams of superimposed air pressure variations at your eardrums An acoustic event has dimensions of Time, Tone, Loudness and Space Everyone learns to render the 3-dimensional localization of sound based on the individual shape of their ears, thus no formula can achieve a definite effect for every listener. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Le_JaJa Posted December 9, 2014 Report Share Posted December 9, 2014 Hi For me i prefer use impulse response and mesure with REW or Holmimpulse not ATR For me the tune with RTA is not representative of ear song and the approach with impulse mesure is representative, I made multipoint mesure with average multipoint and tune EQ and crossover at the average the method is perfectly for stablility staging Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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