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For a $1k budget IMO you can do pretty well, if I was you I would invest most in GPU, would you want one power house or two "strapped" (since were on SMD forums lol) smaller GPUs? Now Intel I7 is a lot more $$ friendly as time progresses. Does this include the monitor? (the price?)

Kenwood KVT-614

(4) Marathon 155 AH batts

2/0 OFC SHCA

Mechman 370

(2) Audioque 3500.1

(2) AA Mayhem 15s

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I build gaming PC's for customers locally, to help pay for my car audio addiction, lol. A few questions, what games in particular are you going to play, and do you need a monitor? Or is this just a tower build?

For a tower....

Start with your CPU/motherboard combo, to see whether you are using an AMD or Intel platform. AMD are cheaper and perform equally for much less money than Intel.You can pick up a higher end AMD FX 8 core CPU for as low as $140 (FX-8320). Be sure to purchase one with a Vishera core. A good corresponding motherboard would be around $70, just as long as it's a 970/990 chipset and AM3+ socket, with SATA 6Gb/s capability. For a graphics card, most Radeon R9 series would be good, depending on which games you are running. If you want to build it and not worry what game you can run, get a Radeon R9-290 graphics card, by Sapphire. They are like $300. For memory, 16GB of DDR3-1600, CAS latency 9. You can get 16GB of G. Skill Sniper Series DDR3-1600 gaming ram for around $150. Hard drive, I would strongly recommend going with a Solid State Drive (SSD). You can get a Crucial MX100, 128GB for around $75, then add a larger, physical drive for file storage. A good 1TB is only like $60. So you're at like $800. A case with good airflow can be had for as little as $60, leaving you $140 for a power supply, DVD drive and software. If it were me, I would spend that $200 you have left on a good case, cheap DVD drive and power supply over 600w. Then get a copy of Windows for free, either a evaluation copy of Windows 9 that will be available soon, or a copy of Windows 8/7 off a torrent site, etc.

That's a gaming PC, capable of playing any game out there, for $1000, assuming you have a monitor or LCD/LED TV. If you want some model specifics that I would recommend, let me know. Hope this helps!

Head Unit - Clarion VX709 7" DVD Touchscreen

Mid/Highs - Front Doors - RF Prime 6.5" component mids.

A. Pillars - RF Punch component tweets.
B. Pillars - RF Prime component tweets.
Rear Doors - RF Punch 5.25" mids.
RF Punch 3-way passive X-overs.
Mid/Highs Amp - MB Quart Onyx 360.4, 4 channel, 640W RMS.
Subs - (2) PowerBass 3XL 15, 1000w RMS, 3" flat wound coil, 562oz motor, 10" spider.
Sub Amp - Audiopipe GD6001 @.5ohm, clamped 2825RMS.
Box - 9.6 cu^3 net @35Hz, three 6" aero's.
Charging - Energizer 120Ah AGM under the hood, MaxLife 75Ah in the rear. Big 3, 140A aftermarket alt. (off brand)
Wires - Two JL Audio 2/0ga OFC. runs to rear, 4ga. power/2ga. ground to component amp (OFC), 1/0ga. OFC Knu Konceptz Kolossus Kandy everywhere else.
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Check out eBay for some used AMD cards from the miners.

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Krakin's Home Dipole Project

http://www.stevemeadedesigns.com/board/topic/186153-krakins-dipole-project-new-reciever-in-rockford-science/#entry2772370

Krakin, are you some sort of mad scientist?

I would have replied earlier, but I was measuring the output of my amp with a yardstick . . .

What you hear is not the air pressure variation in itself

but what has drawn your attention

in the two streams of superimposed air pressure variations at your eardrums

An acoustic event has dimensions of Time, Tone, Loudness and Space

Everyone learns to render the 3-dimensional localization of sound based on the individual shape of their ears,

thus no formula can achieve a definite effect for every listener.

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I build gaming PC's for customers locally, to help pay for my car audio addiction, lol. A few questions, what games in particular are you going to play, and do you need a monitor? Or is this just a tower build?

For a tower....

Start with your CPU/motherboard combo, to see whether you are using an AMD or Intel platform. AMD are cheaper and perform equally for much less money than Intel.You can pick up a higher end AMD FX 8 core CPU for as low as $140 (FX-8320). Be sure to purchase one with a Vishera core. A good corresponding motherboard would be around $70, just as long as it's a 970/990 chipset and AM3+ socket, with SATA 6Gb/s capability. For a graphics card, most Radeon R9 series would be good, depending on which games you are running. If you want to build it and not worry what game you can run, get a Radeon R9-290 graphics card, by Sapphire. They are like $300. For memory, 16GB of DDR3-1600, CAS latency 9. You can get 16GB of G. Skill Sniper Series DDR3-1600 gaming ram for around $150. Hard drive, I would strongly recommend going with a Solid State Drive (SSD). You can get a Crucial MX100, 128GB for around $75, then add a larger, physical drive for file storage. A good 1TB is only like $60. So you're at like $800. A case with good airflow can be had for as little as $60, leaving you $140 for a power supply, DVD drive and software. If it were me, I would spend that $200 you have left on a good case, cheap DVD drive and power supply over 600w. Then get a copy of Windows for free, either a evaluation copy of Windows 9 that will be available soon, or a copy of Windows 8/7 off a torrent site, etc.

That's a gaming PC, capable of playing any game out there, for $1000, assuming you have a monitor or LCD/LED TV. If you want some model specifics that I would recommend, let me know. Hope this helps!

My only question with all of this is why anyone would need anything over 8-12 gigs of RAM, is it just to have? I've never went above the usage of 5.5 Gigs of RAM at once ever before and I was trying to use a bunch for fun. This is a honest question so I can learn more man. I agree with the AMD statement! :) also I've never had any experience with Radeon outside of integrated crappy laptop GPUs, only Geforce but I hear good things about radeon. You know your stuff sir!

Kenwood KVT-614

(4) Marathon 155 AH batts

2/0 OFC SHCA

Mechman 370

(2) Audioque 3500.1

(2) AA Mayhem 15s

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I used the think the same thing. Stayed around 8Gigs to be safe. Then I found myself doing a shit-load of stuff..I would have BF4 on one monitor, then netflix on another, and either Facebook or some other site on my 3rd. Then I would have my handbrake in the background compressing some video files and then fraps running.. I have seen upwards of 13-14gigs.. But on the daily I never see over 6gigs.

'97 Explorer
2 Sundown SA 15's

SQ 2200D

Kinetik KHC1800 (Front)

Kinetik KHC 2000 (Back)

KnuKonceptz 1/0 OFC

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I build gaming PC's for customers locally, to help pay for my car audio addiction, lol. A few questions, what games in particular are you going to play, and do you need a monitor? Or is this just a tower build?

For a tower....

Start with your CPU/motherboard combo, to see whether you are using an AMD or Intel platform. AMD are cheaper and perform equally for much less money than Intel.You can pick up a higher end AMD FX 8 core CPU for as low as $140 (FX-8320). Be sure to purchase one with a Vishera core. A good corresponding motherboard would be around $70, just as long as it's a 970/990 chipset and AM3+ socket, with SATA 6Gb/s capability. For a graphics card, most Radeon R9 series would be good, depending on which games you are running. If you want to build it and not worry what game you can run, get a Radeon R9-290 graphics card, by Sapphire. They are like $300. For memory, 16GB of DDR3-1600, CAS latency 9. You can get 16GB of G. Skill Sniper Series DDR3-1600 gaming ram for around $150. Hard drive, I would strongly recommend going with a Solid State Drive (SSD). You can get a Crucial MX100, 128GB for around $75, then add a larger, physical drive for file storage. A good 1TB is only like $60. So you're at like $800. A case with good airflow can be had for as little as $60, leaving you $140 for a power supply, DVD drive and software. If it were me, I would spend that $200 you have left on a good case, cheap DVD drive and power supply over 600w. Then get a copy of Windows for free, either a evaluation copy of Windows 9 that will be available soon, or a copy of Windows 8/7 off a torrent site, etc.

That's a gaming PC, capable of playing any game out there, for $1000, assuming you have a monitor or LCD/LED TV. If you want some model specifics that I would recommend, let me know. Hope this helps!

My only question with all of this is why anyone would need anything over 8-12 gigs of RAM, is it just to have? I've never went above the usage of 5.5 Gigs of RAM at once ever before and I was trying to use a bunch for fun. This is a honest question so I can learn more man. I agree with the AMD statement! :) also I've never had any experience with Radeon outside of integrated crappy laptop GPUs, only Geforce but I hear good things about radeon. You know your stuff sir!

I have seen utilization of as much as 9Gb before but you're right, at this time, 16GB may be overkill. My reason for suggesting that amount is because I am thinking he will probably keep this for a few years and 3 years down the road, games/programs may use more memory. They may not, but I love the saying, "would rather have it and not need it, than need it and not have it". The Radeon GPU's are actually really nice now! Before the release of the R9 series, I wasn't too impressed with them; but I have two, R9 280x's in Xfire and experience NO lag in any game :) The R9-290 is nearly as powerful as two of my cards and if I could do it over again, I would buy that. That is why I suggested it to the OP, they are really strong cards....

Head Unit - Clarion VX709 7" DVD Touchscreen

Mid/Highs - Front Doors - RF Prime 6.5" component mids.

A. Pillars - RF Punch component tweets.
B. Pillars - RF Prime component tweets.
Rear Doors - RF Punch 5.25" mids.
RF Punch 3-way passive X-overs.
Mid/Highs Amp - MB Quart Onyx 360.4, 4 channel, 640W RMS.
Subs - (2) PowerBass 3XL 15, 1000w RMS, 3" flat wound coil, 562oz motor, 10" spider.
Sub Amp - Audiopipe GD6001 @.5ohm, clamped 2825RMS.
Box - 9.6 cu^3 net @35Hz, three 6" aero's.
Charging - Energizer 120Ah AGM under the hood, MaxLife 75Ah in the rear. Big 3, 140A aftermarket alt. (off brand)
Wires - Two JL Audio 2/0ga OFC. runs to rear, 4ga. power/2ga. ground to component amp (OFC), 1/0ga. OFC Knu Konceptz Kolossus Kandy everywhere else.
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I used the think the same thing. Stayed around 8Gigs to be safe. Then I found myself doing a shit-load of stuff..I would have BF4 on one monitor, then netflix on another, and either Facebook or some other site on my 3rd. Then I would have my handbrake in the background compressing some video files and then fraps running.. I have seen upwards of 13-14gigs.. But on the daily I never see over 6gigs.

Lol, pretty much my deal too. Before I know it, I have movies playing, games playing, every monitor full and my resources are starting to fill pretty good. 13-14Gb's is a lot of utilization lol... Some CAD programs use that though, easy.

Head Unit - Clarion VX709 7" DVD Touchscreen

Mid/Highs - Front Doors - RF Prime 6.5" component mids.

A. Pillars - RF Punch component tweets.
B. Pillars - RF Prime component tweets.
Rear Doors - RF Punch 5.25" mids.
RF Punch 3-way passive X-overs.
Mid/Highs Amp - MB Quart Onyx 360.4, 4 channel, 640W RMS.
Subs - (2) PowerBass 3XL 15, 1000w RMS, 3" flat wound coil, 562oz motor, 10" spider.
Sub Amp - Audiopipe GD6001 @.5ohm, clamped 2825RMS.
Box - 9.6 cu^3 net @35Hz, three 6" aero's.
Charging - Energizer 120Ah AGM under the hood, MaxLife 75Ah in the rear. Big 3, 140A aftermarket alt. (off brand)
Wires - Two JL Audio 2/0ga OFC. runs to rear, 4ga. power/2ga. ground to component amp (OFC), 1/0ga. OFC Knu Konceptz Kolossus Kandy everywhere else.
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For now 8GB or RAM is going to be plenty for gaming and everyday use, but as our programs get more and more complicated RAM usage increases. So any more is future proofing.

OP use pcpartpicker.com to plan out the build, it's a great tool for figuring out pricing.

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It's an easy thing to upgrade RAM, but I have maxed out my 8GB before.

b_350_20_692108_381007_FFFFFF_000000.png

Krakin's Home Dipole Project

http://www.stevemeadedesigns.com/board/topic/186153-krakins-dipole-project-new-reciever-in-rockford-science/#entry2772370

Krakin, are you some sort of mad scientist?

I would have replied earlier, but I was measuring the output of my amp with a yardstick . . .

What you hear is not the air pressure variation in itself

but what has drawn your attention

in the two streams of superimposed air pressure variations at your eardrums

An acoustic event has dimensions of Time, Tone, Loudness and Space

Everyone learns to render the 3-dimensional localization of sound based on the individual shape of their ears,

thus no formula can achieve a definite effect for every listener.

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