islandpride684 Posted November 2, 2014 Report Share Posted November 2, 2014 Just hook up the DMM next to your volt meter and see what the readings are....if the readings are different ditch the volt meter, save up for a better one... Build Log http://www.stevemeadedesigns.com/board/topic/186921-blk9te-07-yukon-slo-mo-build/page-3?hl=%2Bblk9te#entry2881410 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
AstoSoup Posted November 2, 2014 Author Report Share Posted November 2, 2014 Just hook up the DMM next to your volt meter and see what the readings are....if the readings are different ditch the volt meter, save up for a better one... Good idea, thanks! Head Unit - Clarion VX709 7" DVD Touchscreen Mid/Highs - Front Doors - RF Prime 6.5" component mids. A. Pillars - RF Punch component tweets. B. Pillars - RF Prime component tweets. Rear Doors - RF Punch 5.25" mids. RF Punch 3-way passive X-overs. Mid/Highs Amp - MB Quart Onyx 360.4, 4 channel, 640W RMS. Subs - (2) PowerBass 3XL 15, 1000w RMS, 3" flat wound coil, 562oz motor, 10" spider. Sub Amp - Audiopipe GD6001 @.5ohm, clamped 2825RMS. Box - 9.6 cu^3 net @35Hz, three 6" aero's. Charging - Energizer 120Ah AGM under the hood, MaxLife 75Ah in the rear. Big 3, 140A aftermarket alt. (off brand) Wires - Two JL Audio 2/0ga OFC. runs to rear, 4ga. power/2ga. ground to component amp (OFC), 1/0ga. OFC Knu Konceptz Kolossus Kandy everywhere else. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
knowledge Posted November 2, 2014 Report Share Posted November 2, 2014 my stinger meter is ok for now i just need a read out, the vm1 is nice but I'm not used to very tiny numbers to squint your eyes to see them. REFF'SMy linkEBAYhttp://feedback.ebay...ck&myworld=trueI love car audio so much because I will never be done. I can never win, and I will never get it finished or perfect. It always has me coming back for more, I can never get my fill of it, but I get what I need. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Miguels Posted November 2, 2014 Report Share Posted November 2, 2014 just adding to the rear battery it will help stable your voltage.. i would test the kinetik battery. it could be dead. disconnect it from the other battery and let it sit for a few hours then check with the dmm.. then take it to auto zone and have them load test it my logshttp://www.stevemead...-my-new-set-up/my blow through loghttp://www.stevemead...future-updates/ 96 ss http://www.stevemeadedesigns.com/board/topic/164094-96-impala-ss-build/ Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
AstoSoup Posted November 2, 2014 Author Report Share Posted November 2, 2014 just adding to the rear battery it will help stable your voltage.. i would test the kinetik battery. it could be dead. disconnect it from the other battery and let it sit for a few hours then check with the dmm.. then take it to auto zone and have them load test it If it is dead, can I charge it, or is it shot? Come to think of it, it is over 3 years old now so that is a possibility. Head Unit - Clarion VX709 7" DVD Touchscreen Mid/Highs - Front Doors - RF Prime 6.5" component mids. A. Pillars - RF Punch component tweets. B. Pillars - RF Prime component tweets. Rear Doors - RF Punch 5.25" mids. RF Punch 3-way passive X-overs. Mid/Highs Amp - MB Quart Onyx 360.4, 4 channel, 640W RMS. Subs - (2) PowerBass 3XL 15, 1000w RMS, 3" flat wound coil, 562oz motor, 10" spider. Sub Amp - Audiopipe GD6001 @.5ohm, clamped 2825RMS. Box - 9.6 cu^3 net @35Hz, three 6" aero's. Charging - Energizer 120Ah AGM under the hood, MaxLife 75Ah in the rear. Big 3, 140A aftermarket alt. (off brand) Wires - Two JL Audio 2/0ga OFC. runs to rear, 4ga. power/2ga. ground to component amp (OFC), 1/0ga. OFC Knu Konceptz Kolossus Kandy everywhere else. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
AstoSoup Posted November 2, 2014 Author Report Share Posted November 2, 2014 my stinger meter is ok for now i just need a read out, the vm1 is nice but I'm not used to very tiny numbers to squint your eyes to see them. That is kind of what I was thinking... VM-1 does not look very user friendly and for a $80 voltage meter, it should be lol. Head Unit - Clarion VX709 7" DVD Touchscreen Mid/Highs - Front Doors - RF Prime 6.5" component mids. A. Pillars - RF Punch component tweets. B. Pillars - RF Prime component tweets. Rear Doors - RF Punch 5.25" mids. RF Punch 3-way passive X-overs. Mid/Highs Amp - MB Quart Onyx 360.4, 4 channel, 640W RMS. Subs - (2) PowerBass 3XL 15, 1000w RMS, 3" flat wound coil, 562oz motor, 10" spider. Sub Amp - Audiopipe GD6001 @.5ohm, clamped 2825RMS. Box - 9.6 cu^3 net @35Hz, three 6" aero's. Charging - Energizer 120Ah AGM under the hood, MaxLife 75Ah in the rear. Big 3, 140A aftermarket alt. (off brand) Wires - Two JL Audio 2/0ga OFC. runs to rear, 4ga. power/2ga. ground to component amp (OFC), 1/0ga. OFC Knu Konceptz Kolossus Kandy everywhere else. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
AstoSoup Posted November 2, 2014 Author Report Share Posted November 2, 2014 I am going to put the DMM on it now that I am out of work. If the DMM jumps all over, I will take it as it's the batteries and start getting some bigger ones. If it stays steady, I will need another meter most likely and have a hole in my dash :/ One other thing, I have an UPS unit here that is BNIB, a very large one. Believe the battery is a 60Ah AGM inside it, will this work for the rear? Will put a bigger XS Power under the hood later, as I will eventually have about 3k worth of amps on my electrical... Head Unit - Clarion VX709 7" DVD Touchscreen Mid/Highs - Front Doors - RF Prime 6.5" component mids. A. Pillars - RF Punch component tweets. B. Pillars - RF Prime component tweets. Rear Doors - RF Punch 5.25" mids. RF Punch 3-way passive X-overs. Mid/Highs Amp - MB Quart Onyx 360.4, 4 channel, 640W RMS. Subs - (2) PowerBass 3XL 15, 1000w RMS, 3" flat wound coil, 562oz motor, 10" spider. Sub Amp - Audiopipe GD6001 @.5ohm, clamped 2825RMS. Box - 9.6 cu^3 net @35Hz, three 6" aero's. Charging - Energizer 120Ah AGM under the hood, MaxLife 75Ah in the rear. Big 3, 140A aftermarket alt. (off brand) Wires - Two JL Audio 2/0ga OFC. runs to rear, 4ga. power/2ga. ground to component amp (OFC), 1/0ga. OFC Knu Konceptz Kolossus Kandy everywhere else. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Kyblack76 Posted November 2, 2014 Report Share Posted November 2, 2014 A DMM that has MIN/MAX, is what i like... that said. If you want TIME to TIME metering, you will want analog. Hense why everyone that speaks HIGHLY of the Damore meters. The reason your 11 dollar meters you and "your buddies" have dont run away, is due to them not coming CLOSE to see the TRUE voltage. To slow. Digital = SLOW in reaction time. SMD SUPER SELLER The Burban Build Blazer Build sold Acura trunk build sold Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
AstoSoup Posted November 2, 2014 Author Report Share Posted November 2, 2014 A DMM that has MIN/MAX, is what i like... that said. If you want TIME to TIME metering, you will want analog. Hense why everyone that speaks HIGHLY of the Damore meters. The reason your 11 dollar meters you and "your buddies" have dont run away, is due to them not coming CLOSE to see the TRUE voltage. To slow. Digital = SLOW in reaction time. Never knew there was much of a difference between digital an analog.... learn something new everyday! Other peoples digitals aren't the model of accuracy but stay fairly stable when compared to mine. Have heard of Damore meters, are they really pricey as well? Just seems like such a simple thing to spend a ton on lol Head Unit - Clarion VX709 7" DVD Touchscreen Mid/Highs - Front Doors - RF Prime 6.5" component mids. A. Pillars - RF Punch component tweets. B. Pillars - RF Prime component tweets. Rear Doors - RF Punch 5.25" mids. RF Punch 3-way passive X-overs. Mid/Highs Amp - MB Quart Onyx 360.4, 4 channel, 640W RMS. Subs - (2) PowerBass 3XL 15, 1000w RMS, 3" flat wound coil, 562oz motor, 10" spider. Sub Amp - Audiopipe GD6001 @.5ohm, clamped 2825RMS. Box - 9.6 cu^3 net @35Hz, three 6" aero's. Charging - Energizer 120Ah AGM under the hood, MaxLife 75Ah in the rear. Big 3, 140A aftermarket alt. (off brand) Wires - Two JL Audio 2/0ga OFC. runs to rear, 4ga. power/2ga. ground to component amp (OFC), 1/0ga. OFC Knu Konceptz Kolossus Kandy everywhere else. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
AstoSoup Posted November 2, 2014 Author Report Share Posted November 2, 2014 A DMM that has MIN/MAX, is what i like... that said. If you want TIME to TIME metering, you will want analog. Hense why everyone that speaks HIGHLY of the Damore meters. The reason your 11 dollar meters you and "your buddies" have dont run away, is due to them not coming CLOSE to see the TRUE voltage. To slow. Digital = SLOW in reaction time. Actually, seeing that the D Amore are in fact the VM-1. I do see some other brand analog meters that look pretty nice, for around $30. How can one tell the difference between a good meter and a slow meter? Other than brand name and insane price? lol Head Unit - Clarion VX709 7" DVD Touchscreen Mid/Highs - Front Doors - RF Prime 6.5" component mids. A. Pillars - RF Punch component tweets. B. Pillars - RF Prime component tweets. Rear Doors - RF Punch 5.25" mids. RF Punch 3-way passive X-overs. Mid/Highs Amp - MB Quart Onyx 360.4, 4 channel, 640W RMS. Subs - (2) PowerBass 3XL 15, 1000w RMS, 3" flat wound coil, 562oz motor, 10" spider. Sub Amp - Audiopipe GD6001 @.5ohm, clamped 2825RMS. Box - 9.6 cu^3 net @35Hz, three 6" aero's. Charging - Energizer 120Ah AGM under the hood, MaxLife 75Ah in the rear. Big 3, 140A aftermarket alt. (off brand) Wires - Two JL Audio 2/0ga OFC. runs to rear, 4ga. power/2ga. ground to component amp (OFC), 1/0ga. OFC Knu Konceptz Kolossus Kandy everywhere else. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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