Cost / Benefit for forward facing subs with sealed trunk

[Triticum Agricolam]

Yea, I don't think the car audio store is going to do four different intalls for me, that is nonsensical.

What MaxVolume said is the best answer you are going to get. SPL comes from cone area, watts, and box size. Of your four choices the two 12"s on 1000 watts will most likely get the loudest if you have enough space for a proper box. Sealing off will help push that sound into the cabin. No one can tell you for certain what you are going to like the best since every car is different and every person has different tastes.

This place is full of people who are more than happy to help you if you ask good questions and respect their answers. Just be prepared to deal with the fact that you may not always like what they have to say and no one is going to sugar-coat it for you. Whether you think so or not you have already come in here with an attitude that is going to, and already has, put some people off.

[Joe X]

From a purely SPL stand point I would avoid using any of those subs as they are made for SQ applications, if anything I would go for a 12w7 or 13W7 depending on the space available.

[_paralyzed_]

Of your 4 posted scenarios the two 12"s will be the loudest. There's a simple answer to a simple question.

There can be so much circle jerk on this forum sometimes...

[arrogant]

Thank you very much guys. Sorry if offended, but I felt the question was straight forward and just wanted a quick answer. I will return with pics if anyone is interested once they are installed. This will be my first custom installation (ie. not dropping a box and an amp screwed into the box into my trunk) and I want to make sure I get this right. Also, I did not want to spend a forture because I will probably sell the car in a year or so.

I guess the install will be as follows:

2 12" 12w3

XD1000

Front firing with the box completely sealed off from the trunk and ported through the rear deck where the factory 10" sub was located.

I might add some LED's in the trunk as well and show off the amp in plexiglass.

[_paralyzed_]

Whoops, forgot to add the orientation to my above suggestion.

I would actually think a traditional ported enclosure would work better. If you you run the port throughout the factory sub hole I would imagine it could block some of the directly radiated bass off the cones.

Your best bet (which you didn't mention) is a fourth order box ported directly through the factory sub hole.

[arrogant]

Ok guys so I decided to make some changes due to cost. I am now rear firing the subs and instead of the 12w3 I went with the 13w3. Here is my question though:

I am going to have a box built, and will have a false wall with the subs mounted flush to maintain a factory look. Now, if I go ported the wall will probably be flush with where the trunk lid begins, and if it is sealed I will have more room in the trunk. My question is again regarding air movement. If I go ported, that wall will be in front of the opening in the rear deck thus making it hard to move air into the cabin. Do false walls constrict bass movement like this? Should I get a hole cut in the false fall and covered with some sort of grill covering in order to make sure air can move back into the area behind the false wall and then into the cabin?

Does any of this make sense?

[cloud77]

Ok, I reported that post, hopefully mods will delete it. Anyone over the age of 11 have a response?

lighten up bro. This is a fun forum on top of providing help.

[SIDE SHOW]

either port it through the rear deck/parcel shelf, or do a custom parcel shelf with the box built into the boot, subs facing up into the cabin from the parcel shelf

[arrogant]

Not an option anymore. Should I cut holes in the false wall that would allow air movement since they now must be rear firing?

[SIDE SHOW]

I wouldn't suggest it...... (well is illegal in Australia) to cut a structural part of the car