Miguels Posted December 11, 2014 Report Share Posted December 11, 2014 i do bat neg to chassis, bat neg to alt case, and bat pos to alternator pos my logshttp://www.stevemead...-my-new-set-up/my blow through loghttp://www.stevemead...future-updates/ 96 ss http://www.stevemeadedesigns.com/board/topic/164094-96-impala-ss-build/ Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
alaskanzx5 Posted December 11, 2014 Report Share Posted December 11, 2014 As others said 1. Alt pos to batt 2. Batt to chassis/frame 3. Alt case/mounting bolt to chassis /frame 4. Alt case/mounting bolt to batt (optional but a good idea giving you the big 4) Some fuse the power wire some don't. I haven't fused mine but I will. Rather it be there and not needed rather then not gave it and need I. t1500bdcp 2 t2d4 15" 1 t600.4 1 t400.2 1 set p1 tweets singer alt, tons of wiring, smd vm-1, 80prs, back seat delete, still in the works, aiming for a 145-147 with the ability to play 25hz up to 50hz. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
2loud4uboyz Posted December 11, 2014 Report Share Posted December 11, 2014 I think what poorfish88 meant was, The ground wire on the Battery' is add a zero wire to where the wire already is. Your not taking your car apart doing so. A lot of good helpful people here and they wouldn't lead you in the wrong path bro. I love all the helpful people here. I thought I knew my shit until I join here. My 2 cents only is trying to help also. Oh did you take it back and make them do it ? If you paid for that serve you get what you paid them for. I understand and it's good your asking. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ahmed Johnson Posted December 11, 2014 Report Share Posted December 11, 2014 I always thought, Alternator - pos on battery Neg on battery - Chassis Neg on battery - alt case or bolt or engine block Is running a wire from the chassis to the alt case (or bolt or engine block) necessary? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rockFord_Expedition Posted December 11, 2014 Report Share Posted December 11, 2014 I always thought, Alternator - pos on battery Neg on battery - Chassis Neg on battery - alt case or bolt or engine block Is running a wire from the chassis to the alt case (or bolt or engine block) necessary? Keeping in mind that the idea of the big 3 is to upgrade the return path to the alternator with as little resistance as possible... In most vehicles the frame/chassis is capable of carrying the most current. Now, in the rear of the vehicle the ideal grounding location for your amps and batteries is also the frame/chassis. That said, the best, most direct return path is frame/chassis to alt case. Having it go through the battery means two extra terminations and longer wire. Current has to flow from amp neg through any other wires and terminals in the rear through the frame up to the front, into the distribution point on the battery and then to the alternator. Minimal difference if all is done right, but that's the idea. Any vehicle I work on gets the battery, alt, body, starter and engine all grounded to a common point on the frame, usually passenger side. Then I run my rear grounds to the frame on the same side. Biggest difference is that I am using the best ground source as the hub for my grounds instead of the battery. The engine block, starter and body grounds in this case aren't necessary for audio purposes but it helps things like fuel injectors, power windows, quicker starts etc. and I just like to upgrade it all while im at it. Old School/New School RF Build March 2015 SOTM Winner How to crimp large wire Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
alaskanzx5 Posted December 11, 2014 Report Share Posted December 11, 2014 The source of ground in a car while running is the alt case. t1500bdcp 2 t2d4 15" 1 t600.4 1 t400.2 1 set p1 tweets singer alt, tons of wiring, smd vm-1, 80prs, back seat delete, still in the works, aiming for a 145-147 with the ability to play 25hz up to 50hz. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
d-nice88 Posted December 12, 2014 Author Report Share Posted December 12, 2014 Coolbeans thanks for the info Idk how to post pics and the car im driving is a 97 buick lesabre Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bump4life Posted December 12, 2014 Report Share Posted December 12, 2014 good info everyone. connections directly to alt are essential both postive and a ground to alt frame. adding to factory wiring locations is also good to make sure all circuits have optimum flow! overtime even the "well-engineered" factory ground can become corroded causing problems Buyer/Seller Feedback Thread: http://www.stevemead...5015-bump4life/ MB C220 153 Trunk Car Build Log: http://www.stevemead...d/#entry1840136 MB C280 Ipad Dash SQ Build Log: http://www.stevemeadedesigns.com/board/topic/194484-bump4lifes-new-benz-tony-c-relay-kit-pictures-ce-electric-audison-front-stage-installed/ My SPL Log: http://www.stevemead...__fromsearch__1 BMW M340 xDrive Stock, for now. Corner Load 10" maybe soon. But does 10s in the 1/4... Best Scores out of a trunk 153.0 sealed legal full tilt clamped 5524 @ 42 hz 154+ windows down, 155+ kick Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Miguels Posted December 13, 2014 Report Share Posted December 13, 2014 just because the frame is grounded dont mean its a direct ground. direct ground would be the negative post on the battery.. the frame can also have bushings that can interfere with the path.. if you wire to the frame then from that same bolt to the alt then its almost the same as wiring it direct to the battery. but this time it will have to go through 2 runs of wire and 4 terminals that can also have resistance and not counting a few extra feet to run down to the frame and back up to the alt. on my impala the run to the battery is actually 2 feet. . im not saying the frame is a bad ground.. if done properly it can be more than you need.. just stating that the direct path would be the battery terminal not the frame.. either way its done is the correct way. best direct path is battery to alternator not chassis to alternator. the frame is just a bridge for that path my logshttp://www.stevemead...-my-new-set-up/my blow through loghttp://www.stevemead...future-updates/ 96 ss http://www.stevemeadedesigns.com/board/topic/164094-96-impala-ss-build/ Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
alaskanzx5 Posted December 13, 2014 Report Share Posted December 13, 2014 The frame is the common path for most/all ground on your car. It travels across the frame to the motor the to the alt. Now if you where to run a neg front to back and ground the alt to the battery sure then that's a direct route. With out ground runs it would travel further. Amp > frame > front battery ground > alt case. That's 5 different connections. Amp > frame > alt ground 3 connections. t1500bdcp 2 t2d4 15" 1 t600.4 1 t400.2 1 set p1 tweets singer alt, tons of wiring, smd vm-1, 80prs, back seat delete, still in the works, aiming for a 145-147 with the ability to play 25hz up to 50hz. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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