ROLEXrifleman Posted May 8, 2015 Report Share Posted May 8, 2015 Frank, Knowing what you know now.... would it have been easier to drop the engine from the bottom? Rolex you sicken me. Just let me finish my pie ~ Juice Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Deeznutz Posted May 8, 2015 Author Report Share Posted May 8, 2015 Frank, Knowing what you know now.... would it have been easier to drop the engine from the bottom? Nah, not for the 3.4or 3.8. These motors are tiny in comparison to the big brother. Fast forward to about 4:40 and you'll see what I mean. (This guy is from NJ. Same sort of houses in the Italian neighborhood of Ridgewood/Maspeth Queens,NY where I grew up. Brings back memories. lol.) There are video's of the LS/LT motor that needs to go in from the bottom. -Frank Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jessica Posted May 8, 2015 Report Share Posted May 8, 2015 hopefully the water in the oil is from the intake gasket leaking and water getting into the valley and not a cracked block. Good luck man,. Rest in peace, walled 87 accord build log 03' Corolla build with AA Mayhem inside. My super random youtube channel and terrible camera work. Wiring comparison by CaptainzPlanetz Wire and fuse guide by Guest SyKo13 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Broke_Audio_Addict Posted May 8, 2015 Report Share Posted May 8, 2015 hopefully the water in the oil is from the intake gasket leaking and water getting into the valley and not a cracked block. Good luck man,. It's pretty common to be caused by the issues he found on those motors. Any type of coolant leak plus dexcool equals nice milkshake like coolant. That being said a lot of people's definition of "music" is a clipped 30 hz sine wave with some 80 IQ knuckle head grunting about committing crimes and his genitals. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Deeznutz Posted May 12, 2015 Author Report Share Posted May 12, 2015 Casualty of INEXPERIENCE. Broke a new bolt by over tightening all of them. Way off on the torque spec. Sorta glad it happened for the experience.....that I will not do it again. lol. I definitely got SCHOOLED on this one!!!!! Tried drilling it out slowly and was getting deeper. The bolt did move about 1/8 of a turn so I did not want to hammer an ez-out into it. Without the success I wanted, there was no choice but to do....... the most logical step.....Consult YOUTUBE!!! After seeing the same technique, I knew I needed the same thing done. "Weld a nut to the broken bolt and extract!" I called a few places and some did not want to touch it. AMI Enterprises INC did agree to come out, but with the understanding that there was no guarantee this would work! I agreed, and he showed up 4 hrs after we spoke. Either way, I had to cough up $165 successful or not! He was able to weld a nut onto the bolt and extract it while it was still fire engine red! IT WORKED!!!!! No damage to the surface of the block. Only casualty was the heavy towel I use to dry off the Bimmer with. I'm done for the day. Just going to walk away from this for now. Maybe sleep until 6 since I had no sleep again last night. -Frank Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Deeznutz Posted May 20, 2015 Author Report Share Posted May 20, 2015 Almost done with the motor. Before I put everything back together I went ahead and tackled the P0304 Code I had before the tear down. This motor is a pain to re-assemble, so I want to make sure I put back parts that are in working order. I researched this code and found it could be: 1. A Bad injector So I made a fuel injection tester/cleaner- as seen on Youtube, and injector #4 (Code P0304) works and sprays just fine. 2. Bad Spark plug wire So I Ohm tested the wires, Seems to increase in Ohm resistance as the length increases- as they should. 3. Bad Ignition coil. ***DING,DING,DING!*** Coil 1-4 and 5-2 had..... primary resistance- kept bouncing between 0.2-0.3 Ohm each (Range 0.3-0.6 Ohms) Secondary resistance- 9K Ohms , and 15m Ohms respectively. (Range 5k-6.5k Ohms) Coil 3-6 was the only coil to read 0.4 Ohm primary, and 6.26K secondary!!!! So I'm just going to replace all 3. Waiting on an Ebay offer I sent. As you can see, Coil 1-4 was already changed once. The others appear to be original. 4. Low compression- Looking at the cylinders, I doubt it is, no scoring, no blow-by seen on the walls or on the spark plug. We shall see. -Frank Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Deeznutz Posted May 30, 2015 Author Report Share Posted May 30, 2015 Ok, no P0304 code, but I do have a P0301 code! Now the code is on the same ignition coil- coil 1-4. She still has a rough idle. On the rebuild I had an P0121 and P0122 code. "TPS and incorrect idle speed". "I must have an intake manifold leak" After doing a smoke test with a few cigarettes, than soapy water, I found injector #1 had an oring leak. So I replaced all the injector o-rings. Bam! took are of the 2500 RPM idle and the 0121 and 0122 codes! Now to tackle the P0301 code! I tried everything so far except a scan tool. 1. Checked spark with a spark tester. I have massive spark. So that's not it. 2. Checked fuel injectors again. Did the "Screwdriver tapping test". They're opening and closing. Plug #1 is white, gas is hitting the plug, so I know the injector works. Plug #2 is nice an carbonized. 3. Checked compression. The book says 100lbs minimum. Cylinder #1 4. Cylinder #2 Less than 15% difference so I'm good there. Spark,Gas,Compression. All 3 check out. Next it has to be timing right? I have to just throw in the towel on this one and take to my buddies shop. Only thing down the line to replace it the ICM and ECM/PCM. I think there is a problem with the ECM because the fans do not want to come on at 225-235 degrees, and when I check the relay box Lead 5 should have 12V ONLY when the key is turned in the ON position. With the key out, Lead 5 has power! Must be a pinched wire since this car did experience an front end accident. -Frank Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
deathcards Posted May 30, 2015 Report Share Posted May 30, 2015 i love checking into this build from time to time reminds me how much i love tearing a engine apart and putting it back together to have it run better then before gm loves their cheap lower intake manifolds on the 3800's the plastic plenum always warps -.- btw FEl-PRO ftw that is all srry skippy skar sk2500.1 0 gauge power and ground kunukonceptz alpine HUvxi65 components on BA gt-275new build log -> http://www.stevemeadedesigns.com/board/topic/150642-project-d-kon-deathcards-build-log/#entry2148821 2 x-15 sundowns singer alt, odyssey bat, and maxwell ultra caps Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MrSkippyJ Posted May 30, 2015 Report Share Posted May 30, 2015 it's THEN motherfucker not THAN lol anyway, sucks to have to throw in the towel but at least you put in the work first, then got to a point where it really is throw in the towel rather than just being lazy! F150: Stock 2019 Harley Road Glide: Amp: TM400Xad - 4 channel 400 watt Processor: DSR1 Fairing (Front) 6.5s -MMats PA601cx Lid (Rear) 6x9s - TMS69 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
emurra7 Posted May 31, 2015 Report Share Posted May 31, 2015 I have been following your build(s) its crazy the amount of time, effort and money sunk into your Chevy projects. A white plug is an indication of oil burning. Compression numbers are good so the oil isn't coming from blow bye. It may be possible a valve guild is bad and your sucking a lot oil into the combustion chamer. Either way it sucks. Best of luck getting it running right. Keep up the good work Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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