rocking.that.eclipse Posted February 8, 2018 Report Share Posted February 8, 2018 Yup Scotter I'll agree with Walled here. I've seen a few guys have amps in front of cab and batts in back and vice versa. I'd assume as long as you can deliver the power to the amps it doesn't matter where the batts are in relation to them. It's just easier to have 18" long cables from batts to amps instead of 8 to 10' for cabin to bed Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
scooter99 Posted February 8, 2018 Author Report Share Posted February 8, 2018 I thing I may be able to get the 10k on the back seat the more I look at it. And if that’s correct, I’ll do a couple of buss bars and use the fuse panel I made last time. Then I should be able to use the same cable too. I keep hoping to get working on this, and something comes up. I need to get the enclosure out of the shop and in the truck, so i can tape off my boundaries to do the racks. That enclosure is heavy as fawk and with an 8” lift it doesn’t help lol. So it’s not flinging the box in there. Soon though. My commute needs bass to keep me sane. Ima also working 10-11 hour days right now so that doesn’t help the energy level. I’ll keep at trying to find some time. Facebook Page: S99Creations 2006 F250 Lariat Build Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
scooter99 Posted February 20, 2018 Author Report Share Posted February 20, 2018 Hey guys, been a minute. I did some testing on my enclosure with those threaded inserts. Recall I’m trying to keep the inserts from lifting. I think ultimately the problem is I didn’t use the right drill bit and the holes are a little big. So I did one with wood glue, I did one with Thick CA glue by spraying the outside thinking it would deep into the rest of it, and then one where I put a good amount on the threads and sprayed it while inserting it quickly. Heres what I found out. The wood glue was ok, I didn’t let it dry enough though so I did another one where I’ve let it sit for a day and I’ll see what happens tonight. The second one I did was with the CA glue on the threads and screwed it in and then sprayed the outside. I thought the chemical reaction of the gardener would deep into the hole. That didn’t work out like I thought. I tried to unscrew it and it formed a skin over the top of the insert, and just barely into the hole like a threads worth. But the rest wasn’t touched. It held a little bit as soon as that skin broke loose, it came out. The third was the best one. This one I put a good amp not on the threads and then got it just started and sprayed it and screwed it down real quick. It did a good job holding it, but a good amount of force broke it loose. However what it did do was create a nice solid set of threads inside the hole. So it does screw down nice and tight into the wood. I did order some loctite epoxy that I want to try and see what that does. I have a feeling that will work well. That should be here today or tomorrow. What I also want to do is find a nice gasket I could use. I used foam weather stripping and I think that was part of the issue with these lifting up. I think if I get something thinner and more solid, like rubber, I can put that down and then put the inserts through it and tighten them down. Then when I put the bolts in through the top it will be a solid area instead of giving like the foam. Inserts should stay in place and the top should seal well. Otherwise I’ll just say to hell with a gasket and just put the top on dry and use some silicone to seal the seams after the tops are on. Hopefully I’ll be getting back on this this weekend. I have an idea for the batteries and amp temporarily. Facebook Page: S99Creations 2006 F250 Lariat Build Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Wicks Posted February 20, 2018 Report Share Posted February 20, 2018 Done yet..........................? ? This post sent with 100% recycled electrons. 2004 BMW M3Mechman 280A 2 - XS Power XP30001 - XS Power D375 500F of Maxwell SuperCaps (soon to be 1000F) iPadMini2Dash mounted O-scopeAudison bitOne (Remote DRC MP) Highs Amp - PPI Art A404 Hertz HSK130 (HSK165 waiting...) DC Audio DC9.0K 2- DC Audio XL12m2LEGAL - 147.3dB @ 41Hz OUTLAW - 150.2dB @ 45Hz OUTLAW - 145.7dB @ 30Hz JUNE 2014 SOTM WINNER 2014 COLORADO PEOPLE'S CHOICE WINNER SOTM BUILD:http://www.stevemeadedesigns.com/board/topic/141656-wicks-e46-m3-build-bass-turbo-button-and-a-big-new-addition/page-68#entry2802026 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
WalledSonic Posted February 21, 2018 Report Share Posted February 21, 2018 Hey Big Scoot, try 1/8" neoprene foam from Amazon. Works great, just installed some in my buddy's 4th order box and it compresses well and holds pressure too. Chevy Sonic Wall (4) 15's on 10k Build Log https://www.stevemeadedesigns.com/board/topic/209412-2015-chevy-sonicwall4-15s10klithiumlarge-case-hairpin-us-alts/ (4) Fi SP4 15's | (2) Ampere 5Ks | Active! | Arc KS600.2 & KS125.2mini | CDT Silk Domes | Silver Flute 8s | 240Ah JY | US Alts Jeep Wrangler JK (4) 8's in a 4th Order Build Log https://www.stevemeadedesigns.com/board/topic/209841-shadow-2016-jeep-wrangler-jk4th-order4-8sdc-35klarge-case-hairpin-us-alts/ IG @walledsonic Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
scooter99 Posted February 22, 2018 Author Report Share Posted February 22, 2018 On 2/20/2018 at 2:29 PM, Wicks said: Done yet..........................? Funny Guy!! LOL On 2/20/2018 at 6:26 PM, WalledSonic said: Hey Big Scoot, try 1/8" neoprene foam from Amazon. Works great, just installed some in my buddy's 4th order box and it compresses well and holds pressure too. I'll check it out. That sounds like a good plan. Facebook Page: S99Creations 2006 F250 Lariat Build Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
scooter99 Posted February 22, 2018 Author Report Share Posted February 22, 2018 Oh yeah, that'll work nicely! Cheap too. Thanks!!! Facebook Page: S99Creations 2006 F250 Lariat Build Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
scooter99 Posted March 7, 2018 Author Report Share Posted March 7, 2018 So I know it’s been a bit since I’ve been in. But I’ve been working serious overtime at work and focusing on an interview I had today for a promotion. Overtime is still going on but I may be able to relax a little at night now that the interview is over. All wait and see time from here on. So I think the last I talked about was waiting on the loctite epoxy to get here and it did. This weekend I took out the entire port wall side of threaded inserts and used the epoxy on them. Gave it a good 24 hours to dry and set and we have our winner! Very solid. Some of them I couldn’t even move. I probably could have really weighed on them but for what this is doing I think we’re good. The few that did move weren’t much and I think aside of holding in the grooves of the insert threads, and the wood, I think what it’s doing is making a new thread body on the wood itself. So if it does actually move, I have been able to tighten them down pretty tight without stripping like I think happened with just the wood. So I think that’s going to be the next thing I’m going to do. Get the rest of them out and epoxy them one by one. The other thing is like to do is get a new drill bit and see if I can get through the handful of screws that are in the way of some of the holes. I can’t unscrew them because of how things are positioned, but I’d like to be able to utilize those holes. Plus it looks bad having some of the bolts missing. Lol. I had a couple of ideas for the new install. It would be a semi permanent install for. Ow. Until I can get to learning with the welder and building battery racks and stuff like that, I’ll need somewhere to put everything. The bed cover gives me options. I’m not sure how it’s going to load but here’s one of those drawings. Cab is to the left of the page, so the tailgate side is to the right. Battery rack against the tail gate, batteries laying down so the tops are facing the tail gate. On top of them would be the DC Audio 2.0k. Above it at an angle would be the 10.0k. If I have enough room. Then fuse holders. The upper picture in the drawing would be the top of the enclosure. Thinking about cutting in some windows and putting in some acrylic or something so you can see the subs from the bed. I thought about putting some mirrored plexi on the cover so it would reflect down and you could see in the enclosure without actually having to get up to it and look down. But that may be a stretch. So that’s it for now. I have a thought on a battery rack under the truck, and I think there’s room for it, but I have to do some measuring and see for sure and there’s that whole needing to learn to weld thing still. But this would be sweet if I could make it work. Ok that’s all for this check in. I’ll post the other pics of the drawing. I can only do one at a time it seems. Facebook Page: S99Creations 2006 F250 Lariat Build Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
scooter99 Posted March 7, 2018 Author Report Share Posted March 7, 2018 Facebook Page: S99Creations 2006 F250 Lariat Build Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
scooter99 Posted March 7, 2018 Author Report Share Posted March 7, 2018 Facebook Page: S99Creations 2006 F250 Lariat Build Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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