illestVillian Posted June 21, 2015 Author Report Posted June 21, 2015 I did wire wheel all connections. Yesterday I had the pos and Neg disconnected from the battery because I was replacing the NVX ones with 6 lug dropping hz car audio ones, nice too!
illestVillian Posted June 21, 2015 Author Report Posted June 21, 2015 I did put the new negative runs on the original spots. maybe I can take the engine to battery and make it engine to chassis. But Acura had it the other way. I did add a Neg run from the alternator mounting bolt to the battery on top of the engine to batt and chassis to batt. Chuckluck all day everyday. It could be raining pussy and I'd get hit with dicks!
Sergeant_Skyrim Posted June 22, 2015 Report Posted June 22, 2015 Replace everything back to the stock way. See if problem still persists. If not, the just add new wires in addition to those. Build in progress
White Lightning Posted June 22, 2015 Report Posted June 22, 2015 May need to throw on a code reader and see if the computer sees a problem Kenwood / HELIX / Linear Power (For The Love Of Music) / Brutal Sounds / OverKill Electric Co Questions About Sound Quality ?? Try Here ... Sound Quality, What does it REALLY mean ?? SMD SOTM Winner "White Lightning" 1997 GMT400 Chevy Silverado "The Green Dickle" 1994 GMT400 Chevy "Phantom Dually" Randal's 2007 Chevy Avalanche (we haven't named this one yet) Dylan's "Brutal" 17 Chevy Cruze RS Hatch
illestVillian Posted June 22, 2015 Author Report Posted June 22, 2015 I gave up.was trying to get it to code. Gonna take it to the dealer and have them check it out and install my mechman alternator. I live in an apartment building and can't work on cars here. Plus I have fuct up back pain. I double checked everything. I'm not going back to stock wiring. Could be a dirty throttle body. Seems like a ground to me
SLYentist Posted June 22, 2015 Report Posted June 22, 2015 I've had this probalem before with batteries wired in parallel that weren;t up to par. maybe try disconnecting some or most of your rear batteries and see what that does for you idle. it may be the alternator/s turning on and off as the charge drops. Do you have more than one alternator? Cables and wires almost never fail; the terminations do.
illestVillian Posted June 22, 2015 Author Report Posted June 22, 2015 I'm small time still. I have a Mechman 240 waiting to be installed. And 1 xs p2000, not hooked up yet. Everything ran fine untill I hooked up a 1/0 run from the Alt to the battery. I disconnected it and the problem is still there. Used to run solid on the stock 120 amp. Always 14.4 on 80prs display. Now it constantly moves up and down 14.3 14.1 13.8 back up to 14.3 just at idle. And drops lower once the radiator fan kicks on.
Kyblack76 Posted June 22, 2015 Report Posted June 22, 2015 my guess is, its something you did.... SMD SUPER SELLER The Burban Build Blazer Build sold Acura trunk build sold
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