brent379 Posted June 21, 2015 Report Posted June 21, 2015 Ok guys currently running a dc 3.5k at .5 ohm. I have a dc 270xp alt, deka 9a35 for starting batt, 2 9a31s in the rear. Front batt to block ground in 1/0 ofc front batt to chassis ground in 1/0 ofc..... 2 different places block to chassis in 1/0 ofc alt to batt positive in 1/0 ofc 1 run from front batt to one of the rear batts in 2/0 welding cable both rear batteries are linked with positive and negative in 2/0 welding cable and one ground from rear batts to frame in 2/0 welding cable. I can not figure out why right now my voltage is still dropping to low low 12s. Yesterday I seen 11.2 at one point. And I'm charging at 14.6. Car is a 2013 wrx. Is this one of those situations where a negative run from front batt to back would be beneficial?
magillaru Posted June 21, 2015 Report Posted June 21, 2015 Is the alt internally reg? Is the voltage drop at idle? What do you idle at? Ground the alt to the frame also. Singer Alternators Team Asshole #anothershittysingerbuild
brent379 Posted June 21, 2015 Author Report Posted June 21, 2015 I'm pretty sure it's internally regulated. I don't know alot about alts but doesn't look like there is a regulator or anything on the outside. And I idle at about 700. But the voltage drop is with holding it at 2k.
brent379 Posted June 21, 2015 Author Report Posted June 21, 2015 The alt doesn't appear to have a ground location. Just a post for positive.
magillaru Posted June 21, 2015 Report Posted June 21, 2015 It likely wont have specific location (not familiar with DC alts).......all you have to do is ground the casing where it bolts on to the bracket. Just make sure the casing at the spot is bare metal (shave any powder coating off if there is any). Next step would be checking all your connections, especially your grounds and making sure everything is tight. It would also help to clamp the alt and see how much you're pulling out of it.....that would give you some more info of what's going on. Is the alt new? Singer Alternators Team Asshole #anothershittysingerbuild
brent379 Posted June 21, 2015 Author Report Posted June 21, 2015 O ok I see what your saying. I'll look into that. I've never thought about that. I have went over all connections, both positive and negative. Found 2 that were just barely loose enough to move the wire side to side but not loose enough to have a bad connection. I tightened them up. And I'm topping of all batts right now individually. The alt is over 2 years old. After I got the batts in, I went to a shop so I could have a guy load test all the batts and the alt to see if something was bad. As long as he did it right everything is good. He load tested each batt individually. Each group 31 with a 500a load and they held 12v. But he only had the load on them for like 5 seconds. The group 35 got a 400a load for the same amount of time. So all battd stayed at 12v. And for the alt, we started the car, he put the load tester on it with a 250a load, I held it at 2k and it was still climbing voltage. Idk if the way he tested everything is accurate or not. And the load tester he had I believe is from harbor freight. So I'm kind of taking all that as a grain of salt lol.
brent379 Posted June 23, 2015 Author Report Posted June 23, 2015 well I can rule out a grounding issue. I made a jumper to go from front batt to back just for a test, hooked it up, and absolutely no difference in voltage. so I at lease know that the current grounds that I have are good and the problem is somewhere else....just have no idea where else it could be lol. fml.
n8ball2013 Posted June 23, 2015 Report Posted June 23, 2015 Running at .5 will do that. THERE IS NO BUILD LOG! 1998 Chevy Silverado ext cab Alpine CDA-9887 4 Team Fi 15s 2 Ampere Audio TFE 8.0 2 Ampere Audio 150.4 3 Digital Designs CS6.5 component sets Dual Mechman 370XP Elite alternators inbound! 8 XS Power d3400 6 XS power d680 Second Skin Stinger Tsunami Wiring Sky High A Real Voltmeter not a piece of shit stinger.
brent379 Posted June 23, 2015 Author Report Posted June 23, 2015 think the amp is just pulling that much current?????
reedal Posted June 24, 2015 Report Posted June 24, 2015 lower impedance = more heat = less efficient = requires more current to make power. Buy an amp that makes the power at 2ohm you think you're getting now at .5ohm SMD Tool Map https://www.stevemeadedesigns.com/board/topic/193176-smd-tool-map-new-november-2014/ Build log https://www.stevemeadedesigns.com/board/topic/197217-reeds-03-tahoe-hat-sqaq-singer-xs-shca-cockbox-80prs/?page=32
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