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Sundown Audio

Best true 2000-3000 watt 1 ohm stable amp for under 400


akuma4u

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Why care?

If it sounds good and gets the job done I really don't care how much power it's actually seeing or using efficiently.

That being said a lot of people's definition of "music" is a clipped 30 hz sine wave with some 80 IQ knuckle head grunting about committing crimes and his genitals.

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The same reason we want to see amp dynos. To know what we're actually doing. Plus I can think of a couple people who's days I'd like to shit on because best buy installed their shit and told them how much better than anything else it is...

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An amp dyno only tells you what the amp is capable of not what you're actually seeing from it in your ride while playing music or tones for that you'd want the amm-1 and the results would be different for everyone.

That being said a lot of people's definition of "music" is a clipped 30 hz sine wave with some 80 IQ knuckle head grunting about committing crimes and his genitals.

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I know. But is it not nice to know that an amplifier does what it's telling you before you buy it? And then maybe you make your purchase of said amplifier, and you want to know real world what your subs are getting. By using the AMM-1 and IMSG, you can almost exactly pinpoint what size amplifier you need to output your subs RMS at the lowest impedance. Not that I have the money to do that though. But if you're wired to 1ohm DCR and the lowest you get nominally is 1.9 in a well designed enclosure, you can bump your amp up to truly get the most out of your subs (leaving room for every other factor that changes impedance such as weather, temperature, efficiency, etc.) although, while that sounds good in theory, I guess it's easier to just buy a little bit higher RMS amp than sub(s) total RMS.

Sorry for thread jacking OP. Just brainstorming.

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I always buy amps bigger than what my drivers can actually handle(well what their rating is) anyways but yes it is absolutely nice to see that amps are capable of doing what the manufacturer claims they can do even if you'll never see it in the real world.

Just seeing them put up rated and survive the test doesn't necessarily guarantee that it's a good amp in the long run though.

That being said a lot of people's definition of "music" is a clipped 30 hz sine wave with some 80 IQ knuckle head grunting about committing crimes and his genitals.

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I always buy amps bigger than what my drivers can actually handle(well what their rating is) anyways but yes it is absolutely nice to see that amps are capable of doing what the manufacturer claims they can do even if you'll never see it in the real world.

Just seeing them put up rated and survive the test doesn't necessarily guarantee that it's a good amp in the long run though.

It's hard to gauge how long an amp will last anymore. No one keeps the amps for very long it seems. It's all about getting bigger and louder and metering higher it seems. There's no test of time. build big, meter, sell, build bigger.

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I've tested every amplifier that i have and the amps put out the power there rated but the sub is the problem if u can get the rated power for the first 3 sec but after that the coils heat up and the resistance changes so if you had 1000 wants to start with your probably pushing closer to 500 after its hot if the sub is rated at 1 o when it is hot it is more like 3 o so go with a amp that can push the desired power at 2 or 4 ohms not 1 ohm

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you won't get much love here for hifonics...I've used them in the past...no complaints, but I have since upgraded to Sundown... :yahoo: you get what you pay for...they are affordable though.

can u explain to me exactly what the problem is with hifonics amps and why other amps like sundown are better?

ive also run hifonics before and it did its job , but then again, ive never used any of the other "better" brands before either so i cant do a comparison.

would be nice to know how the other brands differ so i can justify paying more..

the Hifonics amp is very inefficient and will only put out about 2/3 the power at best ... I know I ran a BXI1200 for some time before getting an American Bass amp

2 12" Jeff Vue Customs
1 set MB Quart FSB 216 in doors
1 American Bass 100.1 on sub
1 Hertz EP2 on doors
JVC deck IPOD control
Stock 105 amp alt
DD-1
big 3
new build in Chevy caviler http://www.stevemead...chevy-cavalier/

last set up in the ZX2 http://www.stevemead...-current-build/


old build log http://www.stevemead...-1998-ford-zx2/

Gold is the money of kings, silver is the money of gentlemen, debt is the money of slaves. Just my .02c

that shop needs keep those doors open so they have to charge for it

if people think 10k is a lot then they should get into other hobbies.. like masturbating, cause any hobby cost money to maintain

Lol no, I'm smarter than that bro haha. Fool me once, shame on you, fool me twice..............go fuck yourself lol

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I've tested every amplifier that i have and the amps put out the power there rated but the sub is the problem if u can get the rated power for the first 3 sec but after that the coils heat up and the resistance changes so if you had 1000 wants to start with your probably pushing closer to 500 after its hot if the sub is rated at 1 o when it is hot it is more like 3 o so go with a amp that can push the desired power at 2 or 4 ohms not 1 ohm

Not even close.

Ok so let's assume you have a perfect world where the sub doesn't get hot, there is no impedance rise, and your amp is putting out 1000wrms.

Now let's say that sub has a 90db sensitivity rating that means that sub will only be .62% efficient which means 99.38% of the power going into that sub will be wasted and turned into heat.

Let's do that math real quick .62% of 1000 would be

.0062 * 1000= 6.2

So 6.2 watts is all that sub would be using to do its job in that scenario.

Now we all know that scenario is never ever going to happen so in the real world the actual power the sub is using would be even less than that.

And that's just the tip of the iceberg because there are many other factors at play especially in a hostile environment like car.

Now go enjoy your music and quit thinking about how much power you are or are not making, if it sounds good who the hell cares!!!

That being said a lot of people's definition of "music" is a clipped 30 hz sine wave with some 80 IQ knuckle head grunting about committing crimes and his genitals.

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wrong in many ways

per his logic get an amp that does the power you need at 2 or 4 ohms.. if i have a dual 2 ohm sub that is rated at 2000 watts and i wire down to 1 ohm.. the amps that will do 2k at 2 ohms are 4500 watt amps and even 5000 watt amps.. that sub will be dead in half hour.. its easy to say the sub will see half the power but how long will it see that power.. on burps it works on music it dont you might send the sub 500 watts and in a second later send to it 4000 watts

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