reedal Posted July 20, 2015 Report Share Posted July 20, 2015 Just because you're not charging or holding 14.4vdc doesn't mean you're not getting every bit of what you can out of it IF you have the CURRENT to feed it. Don't worry about voltage. Worry about the current your alt outputs. Put a clamp meter on it and watch the current go up even if your voltage is going down 1 Quote SMD Tool Map https://www.stevemeadedesigns.com/board/topic/193176-smd-tool-map-new-november-2014/ Build log https://www.stevemeadedesigns.com/board/topic/197217-reeds-03-tahoe-hat-sqaq-singer-xs-shca-cockbox-80prs/?page=32 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
reedal Posted July 20, 2015 Report Share Posted July 20, 2015 As long as your supply of current exceeds the amount of current demanded, voltage means jack shit. Quote SMD Tool Map https://www.stevemeadedesigns.com/board/topic/193176-smd-tool-map-new-november-2014/ Build log https://www.stevemeadedesigns.com/board/topic/197217-reeds-03-tahoe-hat-sqaq-singer-xs-shca-cockbox-80prs/?page=32 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
08tahoe Posted July 21, 2015 Report Share Posted July 21, 2015 Get it externally regulated if you want voltage. Skip the car's electronics altogether. Besides.... Didn't you buy the alternator for the amperage not the voltage? Charging too high is overrated IMO. Been there, done that, got the prize. Prize being fried batteries in less than a year. What were you charging at? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
in3ssi Posted July 21, 2015 Author Report Share Posted July 21, 2015 Charging to high? I'm not trying to charge up at 15 I'd like to be at 14 though so I can actually get every bit of power out of my amps. Curious wouldn't it be possible to externally regulate to the batteries n amps and then step down the voltage to the computer to not throw errors? so if im at 12.8 and the amp pull just as a hypothetical example 100 amps im getting 1280 watts, but if i have 14 volts and pull 100 amps im getting 1400 watts. How does voltage mean jack shit if thats the case? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SnowDrifter Posted July 21, 2015 Report Share Posted July 21, 2015 Get it externally regulated if you want voltage. Skip the car's electronics altogether. Besides.... Didn't you buy the alternator for the amperage not the voltage? Charging too high is overrated IMO. Been there, done that, got the prize. Prize being fried batteries in less than a year. What were you charging at? 14.8 Quote ~~~~~~~~SAY NO TO PHOTOBUCKET~~~~~~~~ Snow's DD-1 tracks here: https://www.stevemeadedesigns.com/board/topic/167433-snows-dd-1-tracks/ My take on OFC vs CCA: https://www.stevemeadedesigns.com/board/topic/110381-things-that-piss-you-off-in-the-car-audio-world/?do=findComment&comment=2461444 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Kyblack76 Posted July 21, 2015 Report Share Posted July 21, 2015 14.6 here but better yet... i can hold 13v or so for an hour of playing.. Quote SMD SUPER SELLER The Burban Build Blazer Build sold Acura trunk build sold Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SnowDrifter Posted July 21, 2015 Report Share Posted July 21, 2015 (edited) Charging to high? I'm not trying to charge up at 15 I'd like to be at 14 though so I can actually get every bit of power out of my amps. Curious wouldn't it be possible to externally regulate to the batteries n amps and then step down the voltage to the computer to not throw errors? so if im at 12.8 and the amp pull just as a hypothetical example 100 amps im getting 1280 watts, but if i have 14 volts and pull 100 amps im getting 1400 watts. How does voltage mean jack shit if thats the case? Logarithmic difference between the two powers you listed is only about .4db assuming your setup is 100% efficient with no losses... Which it's not. I'd be amazed if you could hear the difference in 120w at that power level. Only thing I'd worry at 12.8 is being able to recharge the battery. But as far as the power you listed.. I wouldn't sweat it Edited July 21, 2015 by SnowDrifter Quote ~~~~~~~~SAY NO TO PHOTOBUCKET~~~~~~~~ Snow's DD-1 tracks here: https://www.stevemeadedesigns.com/board/topic/167433-snows-dd-1-tracks/ My take on OFC vs CCA: https://www.stevemeadedesigns.com/board/topic/110381-things-that-piss-you-off-in-the-car-audio-world/?do=findComment&comment=2461444 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
in3ssi Posted July 21, 2015 Author Report Share Posted July 21, 2015 14.6 here but better yet... i can hold 13v or so for an hour of playing.. thats not the power im running but just an example with nice round numbers. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
08tahoe Posted July 21, 2015 Report Share Posted July 21, 2015 Get it externally regulated if you want voltage. Skip the car's electronics altogether. Besides.... Didn't you buy the alternator for the amperage not the voltage? Charging too high is overrated IMO. Been there, done that, got the prize. Prize being fried batteries in less than a year. What were you charging at? 14.8Damn really, so did your batts get fried because you kept a high voltage all the time with no drop? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
reedal Posted July 21, 2015 Report Share Posted July 21, 2015 Charging to high? I'm not trying to charge up at 15 I'd like to be at 14 though so I can actually get every bit of power out of my amps. Curious wouldn't it be possible to externally regulate to the batteries n amps and then step down the voltage to the computer to not throw errors? so if im at 12.8 and the amp pull just as a hypothetical example 100 amps im getting 1280 watts, but if i have 14 volts and pull 100 amps im getting 1400 watts. How does voltage mean jack shit if thats the case? Because your amp is going to pull the amperage it needs as long as it has the support from the alternator, and the alternator only produces the amperage that is required by it at that time. You can ride it out at 13v all day long as you can generate the amperage. Lower voltage is going to need more amperage to produce the same output as higher voltage. You have a 270A alternator. What size amplifier(s) are you running? And you listen to music, not just use it for tones and metering correct? Unless you're running 4kW+ and have found the key to avoid impedance rise due to change in air pressure and temperature and frequency and everything else that affects it, you won't ever max that 270A @ 1800rpm alt out. You're worrying about voltage too much and not paying attention to what the amp actually uses to produce output. Why do you think we choose alts by how much amperage they put out and not what voltage they charge at? For ease of your mind, get an external regulator and set it to 14.2. Better charging voltage for the batteries than charging higher than 14.4. Quote SMD Tool Map https://www.stevemeadedesigns.com/board/topic/193176-smd-tool-map-new-november-2014/ Build log https://www.stevemeadedesigns.com/board/topic/197217-reeds-03-tahoe-hat-sqaq-singer-xs-shca-cockbox-80prs/?page=32 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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