Broke_Audio_Addict Posted August 13, 2015 Report Share Posted August 13, 2015 You had your DC alt rebuilt by Dom ? Yes, by Dom at Iraggi. Is that bad? You had a high quality alt rebuilt by a low quality con artist. That being said a lot of people's definition of "music" is a clipped 30 hz sine wave with some 80 IQ knuckle head grunting about committing crimes and his genitals. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rmireles1 Posted August 13, 2015 Author Report Share Posted August 13, 2015 Does it cut off full tilt? When amp is cool it does not cut off full tilt. Only after several mins. Somertimes goes into protect mode even if it is at low volume. I assume it has already build up heat. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rmireles1 Posted August 13, 2015 Author Report Share Posted August 13, 2015 You had your DC alt rebuilt by Dom ?Yes, by Dom at Iraggi. Is that bad?You had a high quality alt rebuilt by a low quality con artist. I actually reached out to DC Power 1st and due to the old model alt I had, t hr y recommended going to Iraggi since I asked if they approved. Reason was it was going to be pretty expensive, time consuming and they did not want to hassle with getting parts they no longer carry. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MrSkippyJ Posted August 13, 2015 Report Share Posted August 13, 2015 once you get those useless alts out of there i would recommend having at least as many runs for the (-) side of things as you do for the (+) side of things. With your alts you have now a shoe string will work well enough to carry the current they can put out. F150: Stock 2019 Harley Road Glide: Amp: TM400Xad - 4 channel 400 watt Processor: DSR1 Fairing (Front) 6.5s -MMats PA601cx Lid (Rear) 6x9s - TMS69 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
420c Posted August 13, 2015 Report Share Posted August 13, 2015 In your diagram it looks like you have more postive runs of wire then you do grounds your gonna need an equal amount if thats the case, also it looks like you have your amps grounded to your negative battery post so you may wanna try a clean solid ground seperate for your amps and your fans to see if that helps any. Some of the builds here have shown mixed results when grounding the amps to the batts. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
420c Posted August 13, 2015 Report Share Posted August 13, 2015 Its probably obvious but if you havent checked your fuses from your alts to your rear batts you may be loosing amperage if one is blown and you should check your batts individually to make sure you dont have dead bat holdin you down. Also put another xs under the hood those yellow tops are a pain in the azz if they start loosing charge Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MrSkippyJ Posted August 13, 2015 Report Share Posted August 13, 2015 there shouldn't be any issues grounding to a battery bank instead of the chassis. F150: Stock 2019 Harley Road Glide: Amp: TM400Xad - 4 channel 400 watt Processor: DSR1 Fairing (Front) 6.5s -MMats PA601cx Lid (Rear) 6x9s - TMS69 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
tboorn Posted August 13, 2015 Report Share Posted August 13, 2015 i would try to ground your alternators properly, even though they are bolted down to the engine block which is technically a ground, id still do a run of negative at least to your front battery, or to the frame if every other part is also properly grounded to the frame. Right now it looks like you worried mainly about power runs, ground your front battery, alt, and rear bank to the frame Fidelity Built to Last Team Sound Asleep 24Runner Build Log: http://www.stevemeadedesigns.com/board/topic/196657-24runner-sleeper-system-lots-of-fi-neo-dd-focal-new-video-w-juicebox-lithium/ 2 x 12" Fi BTL N2 / 2 x 12" Fi BTL N3 2 DD M3b Maxwell 2.7V 3000F Supercapacitors Pioneer DEH-80prs Focal P165 V30 components Rockford Fosgate T-400.4 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rmireles1 Posted August 13, 2015 Author Report Share Posted August 13, 2015 once you get those useless alts out of there i would recommend having at least as many runs for the (-) side of things as you do for the (+) side of things. With your alts you have now a shoe string will work well enough to carry the current they can put out. I'm planning on removing the front yellow top optima so where would the (-) runs from the back go???? The (+) runs from the back are going to the alts. Oh and sorry about my alts. :-( Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rmireles1 Posted August 13, 2015 Author Report Share Posted August 13, 2015 i would try to ground your alternators properly, even though they are bolted down to the engine block which is technically a ground, id still do a run of negative at least to your front battery, or to the frame if every other part is also properly grounded to the frame. Right now it looks like you worried mainly about power runs, ground your front battery, alt, and rear bank to the frame Where would the ground wire go on the alts? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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