Hotdog Posted October 3, 2015 Report Share Posted October 3, 2015 Do you have a picture of your current box in the vehicle? I went from 4 15's ported to the rear hatch to a 4th order wall. I understand your concerns for the rear hatch. I broke the wiper motor support on my Mountaineer which is basically an explorer. I have seen people port the box to driver side instead of the hatch with goo results. Still not going to fix the issue with the roof. To fix that problem you have to get the headliner out and stiffen the roof. I have seen people take 1x2 and bend and glue to the roof for more support. If you compete though that will put you in a different class when you do that. I was able to get to 150+ on on the dash with the ported box firing to the rear hatch. With the 4th order wall I was at 152 on the dash and 153.4 in the kick. If this is a secondary vehicle I say wall it and get some real world experience. If it is you main vehicle I say stiffen up your roof. Also I did it on 3000 rms (NEW) 2004 F-150 Build Log -->http://www.stevemeadedesigns.com/board/topic/192208-hotdogs-f-150-build-log/ 2003 Mercury Mountaineer Build Log --> http://www.stevemeadedesigns.com/board/topic/114380-hotdogs-2003-mountaineer-build-log-20-removed/page__gopid__1602379#entry1602379 2008 Equinox Build Log --> http://www.stevemead...g/#entry1475764 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ChevyBoy95 Posted October 4, 2015 Report Share Posted October 4, 2015 So everyone is busy as hell for two days, then I post a reply that's NOT asking for advice and magically two people suddenly have time to respond?? Wasn't a "tell me what to do" post, have limited experience with walls and was asking a simple question about walling only two 15's. THIS is my point, a thread asking for some advice can be viewed over 100 times and no one can type a word but when they are called into question, it's all fingers on keyboards! Quick as hell to defend yourselves but absent when it comes to lending some knowledge or ideas... I would call it coincidence, because that was the first time I had seen the thread. You won't ever be getting my help again, that is for sure. Best Score to Date : 160.5 dB Outlaw (47Hz)[4 XM 15's & 2 Taramps Bass 12k's] BL : http://www.stevemeadedesigns.com/board/topic/147800-chevyboy95s-4-15s-7krms-wall-1533-db-on-half-power/YouTube: http://www.youtube.com/hitemwiththeflex/ Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tecomah Posted October 4, 2015 Report Share Posted October 4, 2015 if you spend weeks of time on a build, it isn't going to be for 2 15's (generally). you don't count because your wall could be a box in any other car lol 750??! Yeah, fuck that. Fuck this website, fuck SMD, fuck Steve, fuck all of his butt buddy mods, and their couches.^ DON'T BE A DICK LIKE THIS GUY Team Subsonic Lows Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
AstoSoup Posted October 4, 2015 Author Report Share Posted October 4, 2015 Do you have a picture of your current box in the vehicle? I went from 4 15's ported to the rear hatch to a 4th order wall. I understand your concerns for the rear hatch. I broke the wiper motor support on my Mountaineer which is basically an explorer. I have seen people port the box to driver side instead of the hatch with goo results. Still not going to fix the issue with the roof. To fix that problem you have to get the headliner out and stiffen the roof. I have seen people take 1x2 and bend and glue to the roof for more support. If you compete though that will put you in a different class when you do that. I was able to get to 150+ on on the dash with the ported box firing to the rear hatch. With the 4th order wall I was at 152 on the dash and 153.4 in the kick. If this is a secondary vehicle I say wall it and get some real world experience. If it is you main vehicle I say stiffen up your roof. Also I did it on 3000 rms This is what the box looks like from the rear of the vehicle, subs up, ports back. Ports are 6.75" from the rear hatch, top of box is even with the window lines pretty much. I am also working with 3000RMS, would LOVE to get a 150+ from it but without even putting it on a meter, I can tell I am not there yet :/ I can have something like 100 mil. of deadener thickness and stay in my class, currently have a layer of 50 mil. asphalt on the outer metal of my rear hatch, inner metal of rear hatch, and the back side of the hatch plastic trim. So it fires off a semi solid surface, the window is just breaking from the hinges and welds are starting to come apart where they're rusted and this causes TONS of rattles. It is a secondary vehicle, rarely driven most the year and mainly a winter vehicle. Have seen a pair of my subs do a 150.6 but that was in a 4th order as well. Only want to build one more enclosure in the forseeable future and seeing I already have an aero ported box, it's going to be either a 4th or some sort of c-pillar wall. What kind of subs did you use to get those numbers? Head Unit - Clarion VX709 7" DVD Touchscreen Mid/Highs - Front Doors - RF Prime 6.5" component mids. A. Pillars - RF Punch component tweets. B. Pillars - RF Prime component tweets. Rear Doors - RF Punch 5.25" mids. RF Punch 3-way passive X-overs. Mid/Highs Amp - MB Quart Onyx 360.4, 4 channel, 640W RMS. Subs - (2) PowerBass 3XL 15, 1000w RMS, 3" flat wound coil, 562oz motor, 10" spider. Sub Amp - Audiopipe GD6001 @.5ohm, clamped 2825RMS. Box - 9.6 cu^3 net @35Hz, three 6" aero's. Charging - Energizer 120Ah AGM under the hood, MaxLife 75Ah in the rear. Big 3, 140A aftermarket alt. (off brand) Wires - Two JL Audio 2/0ga OFC. runs to rear, 4ga. power/2ga. ground to component amp (OFC), 1/0ga. OFC Knu Konceptz Kolossus Kandy everywhere else. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
AstoSoup Posted October 4, 2015 Author Report Share Posted October 4, 2015 So everyone is busy as hell for two days, then I post a reply that's NOT asking for advice and magically two people suddenly have time to respond?? Wasn't a "tell me what to do" post, have limited experience with walls and was asking a simple question about walling only two 15's. THIS is my point, a thread asking for some advice can be viewed over 100 times and no one can type a word but when they are called into question, it's all fingers on keyboards! Quick as hell to defend yourselves but absent when it comes to lending some knowledge or ideas... I would call it coincidence, because that was the first time I had seen the thread. You won't ever be getting my help again, that is for sure. Don't really recall getting a whole lot of help from you to begin with, just an attack when I thanked the person who helped me. All good though, I am sorting the details of my build out and a few people were actually helpful so.... we got it! Head Unit - Clarion VX709 7" DVD Touchscreen Mid/Highs - Front Doors - RF Prime 6.5" component mids. A. Pillars - RF Punch component tweets. B. Pillars - RF Prime component tweets. Rear Doors - RF Punch 5.25" mids. RF Punch 3-way passive X-overs. Mid/Highs Amp - MB Quart Onyx 360.4, 4 channel, 640W RMS. Subs - (2) PowerBass 3XL 15, 1000w RMS, 3" flat wound coil, 562oz motor, 10" spider. Sub Amp - Audiopipe GD6001 @.5ohm, clamped 2825RMS. Box - 9.6 cu^3 net @35Hz, three 6" aero's. Charging - Energizer 120Ah AGM under the hood, MaxLife 75Ah in the rear. Big 3, 140A aftermarket alt. (off brand) Wires - Two JL Audio 2/0ga OFC. runs to rear, 4ga. power/2ga. ground to component amp (OFC), 1/0ga. OFC Knu Konceptz Kolossus Kandy everywhere else. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Hotdog Posted October 4, 2015 Report Share Posted October 4, 2015 some 22 year old Rockford Fosgate RFR2215 I have them wired to 2ohm on a Rockford T40001bd Nice box by the way. (NEW) 2004 F-150 Build Log -->http://www.stevemeadedesigns.com/board/topic/192208-hotdogs-f-150-build-log/ 2003 Mercury Mountaineer Build Log --> http://www.stevemeadedesigns.com/board/topic/114380-hotdogs-2003-mountaineer-build-log-20-removed/page__gopid__1602379#entry1602379 2008 Equinox Build Log --> http://www.stevemead...g/#entry1475764 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
AstoSoup Posted October 4, 2015 Author Report Share Posted October 4, 2015 some 22 year old Rockford Fosgate RFR2215 I have them wired to 2ohm on a Rockford T40001bd Nice box by the way. RF never die! lol And thanks, took me a while to complete but I feel was worth it in the end. Now just wish the vehicle could hold up like that does :/ Head Unit - Clarion VX709 7" DVD Touchscreen Mid/Highs - Front Doors - RF Prime 6.5" component mids. A. Pillars - RF Punch component tweets. B. Pillars - RF Prime component tweets. Rear Doors - RF Punch 5.25" mids. RF Punch 3-way passive X-overs. Mid/Highs Amp - MB Quart Onyx 360.4, 4 channel, 640W RMS. Subs - (2) PowerBass 3XL 15, 1000w RMS, 3" flat wound coil, 562oz motor, 10" spider. Sub Amp - Audiopipe GD6001 @.5ohm, clamped 2825RMS. Box - 9.6 cu^3 net @35Hz, three 6" aero's. Charging - Energizer 120Ah AGM under the hood, MaxLife 75Ah in the rear. Big 3, 140A aftermarket alt. (off brand) Wires - Two JL Audio 2/0ga OFC. runs to rear, 4ga. power/2ga. ground to component amp (OFC), 1/0ga. OFC Knu Konceptz Kolossus Kandy everywhere else. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
n8ball2013 Posted October 4, 2015 Report Share Posted October 4, 2015 You really posed this question? I figured a wall was a given. Lol THERE IS NO BUILD LOG! 1998 Chevy Silverado ext cab Alpine CDA-9887 4 Team Fi 15s 2 Ampere Audio TFE 8.0 2 Ampere Audio 150.4 3 Digital Designs CS6.5 component sets Dual Mechman 370XP Elite alternators inbound! 8 XS Power d3400 6 XS power d680 Second Skin Stinger Tsunami Wiring Sky High A Real Voltmeter not a piece of shit stinger. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
firebirdude Posted October 4, 2015 Report Share Posted October 4, 2015 I saw the thread, Tri nailed the answer, I moved on. So fucking what? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
AstoSoup Posted October 4, 2015 Author Report Share Posted October 4, 2015 You really posed this question? I figured a wall was a given. Lol Lol I had just never seen many, if any c-pillar walls with just two 15's, wondered if there was a reason for it..... Would be good as gold if I could actually find more of my current subs, then I could just grab another amp to strap and have 4 of them One question I do have and you probably have some insight, is cone area ALWAYS king? Like two 15's on 3k RMS vs. four smaller 15's on same 3k RMS..... The four 15's gonna beat the meter everytime? Head Unit - Clarion VX709 7" DVD Touchscreen Mid/Highs - Front Doors - RF Prime 6.5" component mids. A. Pillars - RF Punch component tweets. B. Pillars - RF Prime component tweets. Rear Doors - RF Punch 5.25" mids. RF Punch 3-way passive X-overs. Mid/Highs Amp - MB Quart Onyx 360.4, 4 channel, 640W RMS. Subs - (2) PowerBass 3XL 15, 1000w RMS, 3" flat wound coil, 562oz motor, 10" spider. Sub Amp - Audiopipe GD6001 @.5ohm, clamped 2825RMS. Box - 9.6 cu^3 net @35Hz, three 6" aero's. Charging - Energizer 120Ah AGM under the hood, MaxLife 75Ah in the rear. Big 3, 140A aftermarket alt. (off brand) Wires - Two JL Audio 2/0ga OFC. runs to rear, 4ga. power/2ga. ground to component amp (OFC), 1/0ga. OFC Knu Konceptz Kolossus Kandy everywhere else. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Recommended Posts
Archived
This topic is now archived and is closed to further replies.